Originally Posted by
Jordan Y.
Cool, I have no problem with wet kits, like I said they both have pros and cons- I just wanted to see more of the reasoning behind your original statement.
Fair enough, you bring up some good points. If I went with a dry setup I would only do it with a proper tune through a second map in the ECU, not by relying on the fpr boost deal. One might say a big benefit of the dry nitrous setup is simplicity, but you're trading simplicity in the nitrous setup for complexity in tuning. I think we can both agree that both setups can make power and be reliable if setup properly using good parts, and at that point it's a matter of personal preference. Perhaps in the context of this thread a wet kit is better for simply "slapping it onto" a stock KA with no other changes like fuel injectors or tuning the ECU.
Indeed, the proper way to do a dry setup would be tuning in the ecu, but again, you've got to keep bottle pressure dead on to match your tune, which is a slight benefit to the bleeding pressure to the FPR side of things, so long as you've got a good enough injector that your pressure needed doesnt cause them to go static due to the pressure needed.
One of the most important things is an RPM switch, that is about THE most imporant part in not having a nitrous backfire, just like anything else, if you do things wrong it will go bad, nitrous gets a bad rep cause its cheap for ree ree's to get their hands on only some of the pieces, halfass things, then blame it all on the NAWWWSSSS.
A wet kit eliminates a lot of the troubles on the engine side of things, and like I said, an awesome benefit is being able to affordably build a setup that strictly uses race gas for the spray side of things, which is what my setup will progress to. I'm aiming for a GT2871R with a 100-150 HP shot, with my plans, everything eventually will fit like stock, look nearly stock, yet be capable of low 11, high 10 sec passes at the track, with nice daily drivability.