F/S Fujitsubo POwer Gettr exhaust
+1. i dont get it either.
In efforts to keep things smooth, I figured to cover some options to help your sales go better and to keep everything organized.
#1. It is recommended if you are selling multiple parts, to please list them all in one thread. List the title as appropriate, something along the lines of what car, years, or engines it/they are for. If you are selling parts that are universal or fit multiple cars, include Misc., Universal, or something along those lines to let everyone know that you have a boatload of parts for sale.
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#2. As you sell, please update your original post. You may choose to post in your own thread that you have sold something, but please edit the original list. This keeps people from digging up old threads asking if that part you had for sale 2 years ago is still around.
If you sell everything, just edit the first post to say 'all sold' or make sure you post in the thread somewhere saying all parts are sold. There's no way all of us moderators can go find every thread and lock after things are sold, plus it just looks junky to have alot of locked threads. If you decide not to sell something, please delete it or ask a moderator to do so.
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#3. TTT and bumping threads. This isn't the Honda FS, and count yourself lucky it isn't like that yet.
It does move fairly fast, but let's try not to TTT it once an hour. General rule of thumb is to only TTT it when it gets bumped off the first page. I generally will read at least page 1 and 2 since things move fast, and I don't check on FS threads all day everyday. And yes, I know depending on your forum settings, you may have listing 30 threads or a different # per page, but I think I use 30. So if your post is 20-30 threads back, you may TTT it. TTT when updating prices and items/sold are okay. Bumping someone for being a good seller is OK, vouching helps their rep selling.
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#4. Try to include an organized list in your thread. I try to keep it simple, but a good guideline could be like this:
Item: This should be what it would say on a dealer's site. Short and sweet.
Description: This is where it gets longer. Be sure to include quantity, especially with wheels (pair = 2, set = 4).
Fit (chassis, year, model, engine, etc): Try to be as descriptive as possible.
Condition: Obviously this is subjective, but try to be fair. Body parts have physical and paint conditions, as do wheels, be sure to include wear spots or areas that need attention and might have an impact on your price.
Price: No brainer. There is no guideline for setting prices, I always try to start as high as I REASONABLY can, and leave the OBO/haggling to the buyer. Over time, if a part isn't selling, lowering the price always helps.
(TIP: including the price you bought it for, whether it was new or used, helps alot, especially when combined with a good condition statement, might sway someone to buy an "almost new/mint" part that is selling slightly less than new.)
Contact Info: It's best to include where you want your contacts. PMs work best if you check the forums daily, easiest for first come first serve as well, since PMs are dated/timed. Or specify a good email to use. Being this forum is mostly local, you don't really have to include any shipping info, but I sometimes will specify that I won't ship a large part or something heavy. That's mostly a buyer/seller case-by-case arrangement.
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#5. PICTURES ALWAYS HELP!!!
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#6. Please title the thread accordingly. Refer to #1 above, and try to keep it short and sweet. You don't have to include FS: since this is a For Sale forum, but if you are looking for parts, please include a WTB: (Wanting to Buy) before what you need in the title. Try not to use dashes, stars, arrows, and gibberish either. You might get more attention, but it won't always help you sell.
-----------------------------
#7. Please keep flaming to non existant, as always. If you are not inquiring on the part, please keep out of the thread. You do not have any right to complain about a price unless you are the one bargaining the price.
-----------------------------
#8. Use TRader Ratings honestly. This helps others look and see how things are going with a Seller/Buyer. Do not air your hate on the board. If there is someone you suspect of dealing in stolen parts, please PM and Admin, and they'll watch over/take it from there (but without proof, there isn't alot we can do). If your beef is with a shop, refer to TR Shop Forums, if they are in there, or take it up with them yourself. (Everyone, even shops, can make mistakes.)
#1. It is recommended if you are selling multiple parts, to please list them all in one thread. List the title as appropriate, something along the lines of what car, years, or engines it/they are for. If you are selling parts that are universal or fit multiple cars, include Misc., Universal, or something along those lines to let everyone know that you have a boatload of parts for sale.
-------------------------
#2. As you sell, please update your original post. You may choose to post in your own thread that you have sold something, but please edit the original list. This keeps people from digging up old threads asking if that part you had for sale 2 years ago is still around.
If you sell everything, just edit the first post to say 'all sold' or make sure you post in the thread somewhere saying all parts are sold. There's no way all of us moderators can go find every thread and lock after things are sold, plus it just looks junky to have alot of locked threads. If you decide not to sell something, please delete it or ask a moderator to do so.-------------------------
#3. TTT and bumping threads. This isn't the Honda FS, and count yourself lucky it isn't like that yet.
It does move fairly fast, but let's try not to TTT it once an hour. General rule of thumb is to only TTT it when it gets bumped off the first page. I generally will read at least page 1 and 2 since things move fast, and I don't check on FS threads all day everyday. And yes, I know depending on your forum settings, you may have listing 30 threads or a different # per page, but I think I use 30. So if your post is 20-30 threads back, you may TTT it. TTT when updating prices and items/sold are okay. Bumping someone for being a good seller is OK, vouching helps their rep selling.--------------------------
#4. Try to include an organized list in your thread. I try to keep it simple, but a good guideline could be like this:
Item: This should be what it would say on a dealer's site. Short and sweet.
Description: This is where it gets longer. Be sure to include quantity, especially with wheels (pair = 2, set = 4).
Fit (chassis, year, model, engine, etc): Try to be as descriptive as possible.
Condition: Obviously this is subjective, but try to be fair. Body parts have physical and paint conditions, as do wheels, be sure to include wear spots or areas that need attention and might have an impact on your price.
Price: No brainer. There is no guideline for setting prices, I always try to start as high as I REASONABLY can, and leave the OBO/haggling to the buyer. Over time, if a part isn't selling, lowering the price always helps.
(TIP: including the price you bought it for, whether it was new or used, helps alot, especially when combined with a good condition statement, might sway someone to buy an "almost new/mint" part that is selling slightly less than new.)Contact Info: It's best to include where you want your contacts. PMs work best if you check the forums daily, easiest for first come first serve as well, since PMs are dated/timed. Or specify a good email to use. Being this forum is mostly local, you don't really have to include any shipping info, but I sometimes will specify that I won't ship a large part or something heavy. That's mostly a buyer/seller case-by-case arrangement.
-----------------------------
#5. PICTURES ALWAYS HELP!!!
-----------------------------
#6. Please title the thread accordingly. Refer to #1 above, and try to keep it short and sweet. You don't have to include FS: since this is a For Sale forum, but if you are looking for parts, please include a WTB: (Wanting to Buy) before what you need in the title. Try not to use dashes, stars, arrows, and gibberish either. You might get more attention, but it won't always help you sell.
-----------------------------
#7. Please keep flaming to non existant, as always. If you are not inquiring on the part, please keep out of the thread. You do not have any right to complain about a price unless you are the one bargaining the price.
-----------------------------
#8. Use TRader Ratings honestly. This helps others look and see how things are going with a Seller/Buyer. Do not air your hate on the board. If there is someone you suspect of dealing in stolen parts, please PM and Admin, and they'll watch over/take it from there (but without proof, there isn't alot we can do). If your beef is with a shop, refer to TR Shop Forums, if they are in there, or take it up with them yourself. (Everyone, even shops, can make mistakes.)
dumbasses who're willing to pay for it...
no offense to the OP, i just can't under stand why you'd to pay $1100 for a cat back, when you can hit up boombop on eBay and get the same thing for $200 shipped...
unless you just like to impress people by saying "check out my $1100 peice of stainless steel pipe"
shit, i can't even see paying more than $500 for a cat back...
GLWS though...
no offense to the OP, i just can't under stand why you'd to pay $1100 for a cat back, when you can hit up boombop on eBay and get the same thing for $200 shipped...
unless you just like to impress people by saying "check out my $1100 peice of stainless steel pipe"
shit, i can't even see paying more than $500 for a cat back...
GLWS though...
Last edited by GO_GETTR; Mar 17, 2009 at 11:56 AM.
i didnt have a pic at the moment, but since everyone on this forum is so uptight and got the panties in a bundle, fuck it, if you dont want it, dont post, a pic is a pic, the exhaust looks exactly like the one posted on here, the car is parked in the dads garage which is a good drive away.
good luck getting $750 for that, even used... no one cares that it's a "$1100" cat back, everyone who knows anything know's it just a fucking pipe... mercedes back in 1982 went for $60,000, just cause someone paid 60k for it then, doesn't mean it's worth 60k now...
GLWS fuckwad, you'll be sitting on this exhaust for a while...
are you going to buy a $5,000 4" cat back?
look douche, i don't give a fuck about my car pieced together with TR parts, and being different colors, it's a goddamn project car, and by no means a show car... and second, i could give two shits, maybe even three shits about how much money you have in your car, my post wasn't a bash against you, just people paying WAY too much money for shit that could be gotten FAR cheaper, and work EXACTLY the same... so piss off brand whore, you ARE the dumbass who buys that $$$ shit so you can walk around, feel good about yourself and tell every one "hey look how cool i am, i have a cat back that i paid over a grand for" .... idiot....
good luck getting $750 for that, even used... no one cares that it's a "$1100" cat back, everyone who knows anything know's it just a fucking pipe... mercedes back in 1982 went for $60,000, just cause someone paid 60k for it then, doesn't mean it's worth 60k now...
GLWS fuckwad, you'll be sitting on this exhaust for a while...
are you going to buy a $5,000 4" cat back?
good luck getting $750 for that, even used... no one cares that it's a "$1100" cat back, everyone who knows anything know's it just a fucking pipe... mercedes back in 1982 went for $60,000, just cause someone paid 60k for it then, doesn't mean it's worth 60k now...
GLWS fuckwad, you'll be sitting on this exhaust for a while...
are you going to buy a $5,000 4" cat back?
no hes going to order a truck full of dildos with $5,000





