Looking to start out? Read Me!!
Looking to start out? Read Me!!
Since there have been so many posts about which bike to start out on I figured I would just make this!
First there is the Kawasaki Ninja 500ex. Great begginer bike and you can find them for really cheap.
Then there is the Yamaha Fzr 600. Also a great begginer bike and cheap.
Next is the Suzuki Katana 600. I think this is the best bike to start out with. It's a little heavy but it has good power and you can find them for pretty cheap too.
There are a couple other bikes like the Suzuki SV 650, Honda CBR 600 f2's and f3's that make awesome starter bikes! You should look to spend around $3500 or less!!!! Before you buy a bike make sure you take the msf course! www.msf-usa.org And make sure you have all of your gear! Helmet, gloves and jackets are the main things to have. Go to ebay or any other bike shop to buy all of this stuff!
Let me know if I missed anything.
*****EDIT******
Please do not ask which bike you should get! WE AREN'T MIND READERS!! SIMPLY GO AROUND AND SIT ON EACH BIKE YOU ARE INTERESTED IN, THEN DECIDE.
Also it's not the best idea to get something brand new for your first bike! I alway's recommend spending around $3k for your first bike. If you have any questions please PM me i'll be more then happy to help you out!
First there is the Kawasaki Ninja 500ex. Great begginer bike and you can find them for really cheap.
Then there is the Yamaha Fzr 600. Also a great begginer bike and cheap.
Next is the Suzuki Katana 600. I think this is the best bike to start out with. It's a little heavy but it has good power and you can find them for pretty cheap too.
There are a couple other bikes like the Suzuki SV 650, Honda CBR 600 f2's and f3's that make awesome starter bikes! You should look to spend around $3500 or less!!!! Before you buy a bike make sure you take the msf course! www.msf-usa.org And make sure you have all of your gear! Helmet, gloves and jackets are the main things to have. Go to ebay or any other bike shop to buy all of this stuff!
Let me know if I missed anything.
*****EDIT******
Please do not ask which bike you should get! WE AREN'T MIND READERS!! SIMPLY GO AROUND AND SIT ON EACH BIKE YOU ARE INTERESTED IN, THEN DECIDE.
Also it's not the best idea to get something brand new for your first bike! I alway's recommend spending around $3k for your first bike. If you have any questions please PM me i'll be more then happy to help you out!
Last edited by JUG-LUDE; 01-05-2005 at 09:24 AM.
if u want to start the right right way get a ninja 250, those bikes are bullet proof, we've droped my friends maybe 50 times and it just keeps putting. as far as best 600 to start with, if u want something cheap to fix if u drop it get the fzr600 or an f-series honda. if u want a 600 that will last you from beginner to a few years after learning get a gsx-r 6 but they aren't cheap to fix after being dropped.
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Semper Fi
Aim and Yahoo- Inkedupordie
Semper Fi
Aim and Yahoo- Inkedupordie
isn't anyone going to recommend a hayabusa? jfwy
but i wouldn't warn against a new 600, i learned on mine and so far i'm still alive.
but i wouldn't warn against a new 600, i learned on mine and so far i'm still alive.
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and thinks it's really funny when her nose goes bloody
'cause the blow is so yummy and it keeps her tummy empty
and makes her act more friendly
and thinks it's really funny when her nose goes bloody
'cause the blow is so yummy and it keeps her tummy empty
and makes her act more friendly
I've dropped my gixxer roughly 8 times now - 5'4" w/ 29" inseem - it's gonna happen if you're short. I bought frame sliders before the bike and they more than paid off. The worst damage I suffered was a cracked windshield (my head did that though) and scraped mirrors, light spots on the exhaust can and case cover. So, the 6 can be just as tough as the 250 - I'm proof
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Chrissy
Chrissy
Oh and if you ignore all common sense and suggestions in this thread and buy a 2004 R1 and crash it shortly there after - send me a pm, I'll buy it
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Chrissy
Chrissy
Originally posted by Gsxr Girl
Oh and if you ignore all common sense and suggestions in this thread and buy a 2004 R1 and crash it shortly there after - send me a pm, I'll buy it
Oh and if you ignore all common sense and suggestions in this thread and buy a 2004 R1 and crash it shortly there after - send me a pm, I'll buy it
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and from experience...Tips on buying used bikes:
Inspect the bikes thoroughly, or have someone that knows bikes go with you (and not know of them, but actual experience working on them for a living). Preferably one familiar with that particular bike/make/etc.
HAVE HIM RIDE IT...not for 5 minutes, have him go on at least a 10-15min ride if they will let him. It is easy to get a bike to idle okay for a few minutes, but after the bike is really warmed up it will reveal a great deal if there are problems with it (engine/tranny/suspension/etc).
If they really want to sell it, they will let you (but please make sure it is an EXPERIENCED rider, you don't want to have to pay for a totalled bike if they are loopy).
I can not stress this next point enough...CHECK THE #'S yourself online. Make sure that the frame and engine match each other and the title. If they don't match each other it is not terrible, just lets you know that it has been swapped out for some reason.
If they are different from each other, make sure to check the #'s online individually. I have a friend whom lost a bike to the police impound because the engine was stolen, and just not reporting it (even not knowingly) is accepting stolen merchandise because the police will say you should have checked. A real good deal gets ten times worse when shit happens...and you know what they say...
If they match and they match the title, your all good.
IF THE FRAME VIN# DOES NOT MATCH THE TITLE DO NOT BUY IT. It will not be worth the trouble. Do not buy anything that the person says, "it has a title, I just don't have it...all you have to do is...etc, etc, etc. Sometimes a deal can be made for a really good price, but it is rare that it doesn't have ANY snag or it wouldn't be that cheap, I don't care what they tell you...be smart, don't be a retard.
It is easy to get caught up in someones bullshit story while looking at something you really want...and sometimes the pretttttty paint and ssshhhiiinnny stuff makes you go ooooooh, but use reason. You don't know how many friends I have that in the past squiddage days bought the 1st bike they looked at...bad idea, no matter how much he tells you the deal won't be there in a little while, more often than not, it will be.
As for the mechanics, leave it to someone that knows better as stated above...but for a general check:
ASK THEM ABOUT ANY PROBLEMS
Check the fluids obviously
See if there are any areas that are leaking fluids, have large deposits, etc.
Look for broken pieces, clips, tape (holding stuff together, like wonder duct tape), pieces of wire/zipties/string even are usually the signs of a lost bolt/nut/screw (no biggie), but the tab/mounts could be broken off and not easily repaired (pain in the ass).
Listen for tapping, knocking, irregular noises, etc...if you here them find out what they are if you can.
See if it overheats, stalls, smokes, all the obvious things...also keep in mind most bikes do sound and run rougher when cold, but if it does have it checked first.
Look for any scrapes, grinds, etc...on metal or plastic. Look for multiple replaced parts (sign of a crash). Not that a crashed bike is no good, it is just better to be aware of it as you will scrutinize the bike more if you think it has been wrecked.
Just ask lots of questions and look for the "to good to be true" type deals and think clearly about your purchase, do your own research...you will learn a lot.
Inspect the bikes thoroughly, or have someone that knows bikes go with you (and not know of them, but actual experience working on them for a living). Preferably one familiar with that particular bike/make/etc.
HAVE HIM RIDE IT...not for 5 minutes, have him go on at least a 10-15min ride if they will let him. It is easy to get a bike to idle okay for a few minutes, but after the bike is really warmed up it will reveal a great deal if there are problems with it (engine/tranny/suspension/etc).
If they really want to sell it, they will let you (but please make sure it is an EXPERIENCED rider, you don't want to have to pay for a totalled bike if they are loopy).
I can not stress this next point enough...CHECK THE #'S yourself online. Make sure that the frame and engine match each other and the title. If they don't match each other it is not terrible, just lets you know that it has been swapped out for some reason.
If they are different from each other, make sure to check the #'s online individually. I have a friend whom lost a bike to the police impound because the engine was stolen, and just not reporting it (even not knowingly) is accepting stolen merchandise because the police will say you should have checked. A real good deal gets ten times worse when shit happens...and you know what they say...
If they match and they match the title, your all good.
IF THE FRAME VIN# DOES NOT MATCH THE TITLE DO NOT BUY IT. It will not be worth the trouble. Do not buy anything that the person says, "it has a title, I just don't have it...all you have to do is...etc, etc, etc. Sometimes a deal can be made for a really good price, but it is rare that it doesn't have ANY snag or it wouldn't be that cheap, I don't care what they tell you...be smart, don't be a retard.
It is easy to get caught up in someones bullshit story while looking at something you really want...and sometimes the pretttttty paint and ssshhhiiinnny stuff makes you go ooooooh, but use reason. You don't know how many friends I have that in the past squiddage days bought the 1st bike they looked at...bad idea, no matter how much he tells you the deal won't be there in a little while, more often than not, it will be.
As for the mechanics, leave it to someone that knows better as stated above...but for a general check:
ASK THEM ABOUT ANY PROBLEMS
Check the fluids obviously
See if there are any areas that are leaking fluids, have large deposits, etc.
Look for broken pieces, clips, tape (holding stuff together, like wonder duct tape), pieces of wire/zipties/string even are usually the signs of a lost bolt/nut/screw (no biggie), but the tab/mounts could be broken off and not easily repaired (pain in the ass).
Listen for tapping, knocking, irregular noises, etc...if you here them find out what they are if you can.
See if it overheats, stalls, smokes, all the obvious things...also keep in mind most bikes do sound and run rougher when cold, but if it does have it checked first.
Look for any scrapes, grinds, etc...on metal or plastic. Look for multiple replaced parts (sign of a crash). Not that a crashed bike is no good, it is just better to be aware of it as you will scrutinize the bike more if you think it has been wrecked.
Just ask lots of questions and look for the "to good to be true" type deals and think clearly about your purchase, do your own research...you will learn a lot.
__________________
Why is it when ever I really need to weld something the acetylene always seems to run out...
Only babies drink from bottles...
Boosted 00 Si
N/A 93 HB b16/18
Why is it when ever I really need to weld something the acetylene always seems to run out...
Only babies drink from bottles...
Boosted 00 Si
N/A 93 HB b16/18