kender

how do I control exhaust gas temp

Sneakin Deacon

you control it with AF...the lower the AF the richer...12.5 is leaner than 11.5...14.7 is stoich(perfect theoretical combustion)

you can make your own boost controller like i did, and you dont NEED a turbo timer. different turbos will spool at different rpms depending on the exhaust wheel, and displacement of the motor.

kender

just got this from hondata web page and want to make sure i'm reading it right


"Remove the rising rate fuel regulator and replace with a fixed 1: 1 rising rate regulator set to a base pressure of about 60 psi"


is this saying fuck vortech boost dependent fpr 12.5:1 and get a standard obx, aem type 1:1 fpr non boost dependent capable of putting out 60 psi.

Sneakin Deacon

im not sure what base fuel pressure is, gussing 36psi, but for every pound of boost you run you raise the fuel pressure 1psi, as i understand. this is where your fuel pump comes into play, there are specs out there that show how many gpm the Wally will flow, but there is a high pressure wally too. also injectors come into play, the duty cycles are a big part of what injectors you need to run. and 450's WONT do that for you, on DSM's injectors and fuel pump are 2 of the first things that usually are upgraded.

kender

so what size injectors should i look forand what type of duty cycle. to keep the egt down do i go richer. will the hondata not control this for me.

kender

I know I don't NEED a turbo timer but if it is not used doesn't it shorten the life of the turbo by doing a hot shut down, or at the least cause you to have to change your coagulated oil more frequently.

Sneakin Deacon

yea just wait like an extra 30 seconds, or dont drive it hard the last minute or so when u know ur pullin in soon. and as for injectors, im not sure, i have never used hondata...so i dunno if it will do what a VAFC would do... you could probably run 550's, fuel pump, and VAFC and lean out the entire RPM band 10-15% (too compensate for all the added fuel, the stock ecu will still think the stock injectors are there, and will open them up, causing you to run extremely rich.

flubyux2

Cooler EGT's are accomplished by Richer AF ratios.

richer AF ratios are accomplished thru longer Duty Cycles (measured in Milliseconds or %)

Longer Duty cycles are accomplished thru Piggyback fuel controller (SAFC, VAFC, GCC, etc) or thru semi-stand along (Emanage) or full stand alone (Haltech, SDS EFI, AEM, etc)

-warning- you should only lengthen your Duty cycle up to 85%, any higher than that, and your injectors will begin to go static and operate poorly and not meter fuel correctly and inaccuratly. If you cannot acheive the desired AF ratio w/ current injectors, you can UPGRADE to larger volume injectors, from 370 to 450, from 450 to 550, from 550 to 1200 (in the case of an RX7 ) just make sure that the Impedence/resistance rating of the new injectors matches the stock injectors for plug-and-play compatability.

Larger injetors allow MORE fuel to be adminsitered for the same Duty cycle, or the SAME amount of fuel at a LOWER duty cycle... so if you ran 450's before @ 97%, you could drop in 550's and lower your DC by about 25% while still maintaining the same amount of fuel delivery.

a new FPR wont help you add more fuel and isnt sufficient for fuel control. all it does is help you get MORE use out of your current equipment... raising your Fuel pressure will allow your current injectors to flow more... say turn your 370's into 390's. or something to that effect. the PROBLEM w/ raising your base FP, is that it makes youre fuel pump work HARDEr and cannot flow as much voluem of fuel as the fuel rpessure raises... thats why you need a Fuel pump. A walbro 255 flows 259 Liters Per hour at 20 psi or something like that, but when you get up to 65 psi of fuel rpessure, your volume will drop down to maybe 175 LPH... but, if yoru STOCK fuel pump barely delivers 150 Liters Per hour and you want to raise the fuel pressure, your wimpy stocker could drop well below 100 LPH. at which point, your engine will starve for fuel, even though your Fuel Press is high.

Sometimes, when you install Larger fuel pumps, they flow SOOO much that the stock FPR becoems a restriction, even when fully open, it will cause the fuel to back up and pressurize even MORE, and create an overfueling problem and over richness. that could result in fould plugs, excesive carbon buildup, bad/low idle, stalling when shifting, etc... alot of DSM guys have that problem when installing Supra TT pumps (290 LPH). you need an AFPR that you can raise fuel pressure, but ALSO Lower it as required... AEM and B&M AFPR's dont do that... you need something liek an AEromotive AFPR.

btw, you never want a 14.7:1 AF ratio unless you are cruising or idling. Its way too lean to create any kind of power and still be cool. when accelerating or under load, you want an AF ratio that is Numerically lower than 12.5:1, the lower the number, the richer you will be. but, the richer you are, the more power you sacrifice. i personally would sacrifice 5% of my power to make sure that i dont melt a piston, joo know what i mean?

and yes, you do need the 1:1 Rising rate regulator. Cuz when youre manifold reaches postive pressure, it puts that much back pressure on your injector... so its fighting back agasint the fuel spray... so you need your fuel system to raise up 1 psi for every 1 psi that your manifold raises to maintian uniform fuel delivery, otherwise, youll lean out as your boost raises. DSM guys run into that problem when they try to save a buck and use the NT FPR cuz it has a higher base FP rating than the Turbo unit does.

oh, and 60 psi for a BASE fuel pressure is ungodly high... i wouldnt suggest higher than 40 psi. (Base FP is set w/ the vaccum hose disconnected from the FPR and the vacc. hose plugged)

you can do like Cronic said; sit in the car and wait for it to cool down before turning it off... if you have the patience. usually, 1 minute is long enough... if you have been beating on it Really hard, let it idle for 2 min.

kender

that helps. I didn't know about 60psi for fuel pressure was high but that is what hondata says to do with thier system. it sounds like the 550cc's are the way to go, but i've seen a sweet deal for the 450's and wanted to know if they will work for low boost levels, under 12psi.

to avoid the issue with the fuel pump vs. fpr would it not be avoided by installing them plus injectors, fuel rail, hondata,and having secret services tune it at the same time.

does anyone know the impedance for the b16 injectors