kender

I jsut realized something and it may sound dumb but the bov only makes sound when it opens, between gears or when off the throttle. and the waste gate makes all the noise during normal operation, while driving, as it releases excess exhaust out to open air, or for a quieter setup run the down pipe back into the exhaust system. if I'm on the right track let me know. also what size ic for this.

TurboJZA70

um did you just say you where gunna run 15-20psi on stock internals?

flubyux2

15-20 psi on stock internals is pushing your luck, seriously. your gonna hammer the rod bearings, stretch the rod bolts and put some seroius stress on those spindley rods... not to mention push the head gasket out of line and lift due to the inadequate clamping abiltiy of the stock Head fasteners. For this, you need a sleeved block w/ a closed deck, a metal head gasket w/ the block and deck honed to an almost mirror smooth finish and ARP 220,000 psi studs, torqued down to their specs using the Moly Lube. thats a bare minimum... youd also need a forged steel crank and big ol steel rods, shot peened, balanced, weight matched, and stress releived. then you also need ARP rod bolts, nothing less than 190,000 PSI wave-loc's. youre pistons, should be Forged aluminum w/ Ceramic coating on the skirts and crown (the coating is the icing on the cake). and Total Seal Gapless rings are decent... unless you want to just go the tried-and-true file-to-fit rings, then that would be a set of Plasma-moly coated rings from TRW, if they even have a set for your car.

anyhow, a T3-T4 60 trim would suit you just fine. you should see what it can do on 0.5 bar before you try cranking the boost... a new acquaintance of mine, has a Civic, and just blew up his 5th motor cuz he accidentally ran 22 psi on his T3 w/ stock internals, on a SOHC 1.6... you could see the hole in the back of the block, the rod, and the crank... it was a sick sight.

yea, the BOV only makes noise when you shift, and the WG only makes noise when you hit your preset boost levels; untill then, the WG should stay closed. if you recirculate the WG dump, it will be virtually unnotiicable... if its dumpped, man o man... its wicked loud.

I forgot to address this before: Cast manifolds have superior heat sinking and thermal stress properties, especially when compared to tubular manifolds. the Tubulars are pretty and can be custom made for each applicatin, but unless they are properly braced and made of high quality stainless steel (at least 3xx series=EXPENSIVE) or Inconel (proprietary alloy of Stainless/nickel and other metals=SUPER EXPENSIVE). plus, the welds like to crack. ive seen it happen on several nice looking stainless tubular manifolds, that cost an arm and a leg.. i prefer cast just for durability and peace of mind. not to mention, it keeps the thermal energy within the exhaust which puts more energy onto the turbo and makes it easier to boost. Tubular manifolds are thin and give off more heat than cast. think of it like putting a Big fat block-headed Lab outside in the snow, and a Chihuahua; which dog will lose heat faster?

turbo-max

or, you might run up on an old fucker in a pile of shit maxma wagon that totaly destroys your ass, no matter how much boost you run in that freakin honDUH (all while his wife and kid is in the car too)....gotta watch out for "midlife crisis basterds" we are not all slow

flubyux2

Turbo Max... youre a guy after my own heart... SLEEPER all the way. Like my supra turbo... the "Turbo" badge is missing. On our AWD DSM, the "All Wheel Drive" and "TSi" are missing... Hmmm

My friend just got an Evo8, im trying to get him to debadge it, switch over to NA Lancer tail lights, OZ rally emblems, and a short wing

Just like a Blind man in a whore house; you never know who your fuckin with when it comes to me. heheh

turbo-max

kender

on not 15-20 psi on stock internals at most 10-12 psi on stock internals, with upgraded internals 15-20 psi before it gets sleeved and rebuilt for more. and for you mid life crisis jackasses I was refering to the jack assess that are in a vette or some equally shitty domestic, now if you want to lower your car, that you have put work into and tricked out, into the same category as a stock vette or cobra then you may not be slow on the street but in the head. I've got nuthin against old fuckers my dad is helping me with my crx and we are also working on an 80 elcamino, holy shit did I just admit I am working on a domestic, yes a chevy, a car with the time and effort needs to be appreciated no matter how old the jackass driving it is. but if you think your car is fast because you paid for the little pony on the front grill and the only mod you did was to add a cd holder on your visor then you deserve to get blown away by a jap rice burner, or even a turbo wagon( with the wife and kids driving on the road lookin like chevy chase in lampoons vacation)

flubyux2

werd, thanks for clarifying... sounds like itll work fine then, just keep it tuned and youll be safe. keep your EGT's under 1500*F, measured 1.5" away from port, and your O2's richer than 12.5:1 and youll be golden.

btw, an 80 Elcamino?? and i thought my 79 Trans Am was a ride. all domestics from the 80's really sucked ass, severely underpowered and severely UGLY. now... a 68 Elky, tahts what id do... its a Chevelle w/ a bed on it, and you could get the same power plant options, like an SS396, now thats something to reckon with. it wont turn, or stop, or pass a gas station, but it sure will haul ass.

kender

as for tuning I'll run hondata and for fuel/air mix I had heard 11.5 to one is good would the 12.5:1 give me a richer mix and less chance of running lean. I'm thinking vortech fmu(fancy ass fpr). I have seen some bov with mm measurements does this make a diff?
Do I need the dsm 450cc injectors with the 10-12 psi of boost? and if so do I need a resistor box and will the stock 88 crx si box work. What turbo timer and boost controller do ya'll recommend. I know I need fuel rail and fuel pump ie walbro 250.

not all 80's cars sucked, now the engine in this elky is crap, I mean 100hp on a 3k+ lb car stock..... the damn thing gets wasted by it's own shadow. but my granddad owned it so It holds a bigger value. it may be a pipe dream but I'd like to keep it a sleeper looking like a stock ss but still be able to romp it a see it come up off the front tires and maybe see the rears jump a bit. and your right in a straight shot it is the quickest meanest, and fastest way to get to the next gas station.

kender

Thanks to some helpfull critisism and sarcasm I have looked a little deeper into turbo trim and have found out that while the .60 has a greater ability to handle more air flow and thus more hp it takes longer to spool up and really gets into its zone after about 5200 rpm where as the .48 trim spools quicker and the torque in the low end is realized more it can handle air flow at the 7500rpm level its best at and below about 6000 rpm. the hp missing in the .48 is compensated by low end torque( which is seriously lacking in the b16) which will be more applicable to street driving.

Next I found a formula to figure theoretical hp using a turbo, and while there are variables such as vtec, ic efficency, etc the basic is
psi of boost
{---------------------- +1 } x normally aspirated hp
1atmosphere (= 14.7)

using this formula and running it backwards I've figured that at approx 22 psi I'll get approx 450hp. at 15 psi approx 360 hp. pretty f***ing good if the theory holds close to true. this opened my eyes to see that while sleeves that can hol 40psi will not even break a seat at the levels that I've just learned I would like to be at. now for pipe dream 40psi=669 hp on a crx it may fly appart but what a rush. back to reality if anyone thinks this info is off the mark please help me in my learning process.