On a NOS brand N2O kit
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nos
the only thing i have on ur so called needed list is a blowdown tube which you don't need if mounted in trunk and i'm running a twin bottle setup with 100 shot and have had no problems at all and i have been running it a year so far and i have 200,000 miles how do u explain that?
bbbblllllaaaaaaahhhhhhhh
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that only says you are either responsible or lucky. Honestly in a small block motor untill you get above a 150 horse shot your are pretty safe. the blow down tube is for when ever u have a bottle in an enclosed space. id especially not want a trunk full of N20 in my car with dual trunk mounted batteries a fuel cell and 2 fuel pumps the size of lantern batteries.
the point is with somthing as in depth and finicky as N20 all it takes it touching it off while at idle , having a low fuel issue or a mucked up filter to do some damage. Im just trying to stress the fact that he should definatly research every aspect and hazard before spraying his daily driver thats really all im trying to convay. Guys i know who spray spray alot more then some small 100 ot 150 or 200 horse shot but they also flat out dont care if they pop a motor because they arent daily drivers. They will rip it out and rebuild it or replace it with out batting an eye. I just dont want to see somone fuck up their daily driver to gain so little. whats a hundred shot gonna do give a stock truck a couple 1/10s?
the point is with somthing as in depth and finicky as N20 all it takes it touching it off while at idle , having a low fuel issue or a mucked up filter to do some damage. Im just trying to stress the fact that he should definatly research every aspect and hazard before spraying his daily driver thats really all im trying to convay. Guys i know who spray spray alot more then some small 100 ot 150 or 200 horse shot but they also flat out dont care if they pop a motor because they arent daily drivers. They will rip it out and rebuild it or replace it with out batting an eye. I just dont want to see somone fuck up their daily driver to gain so little. whats a hundred shot gonna do give a stock truck a couple 1/10s?
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Originally Posted by Badlatitude
Its my personal believe you are asking for trouble with thoose kits. car nitrous is a combination of nitrogen and oxygen with a little sulpher dioxide int he mix to soften the hit a bit and also make it non wifable. the oxygen is what makes thew power , the nitrogen is just a filler. Nitrous is not like some magic power additive its just increases the oxygen content of your intake charge. It is very fuel sensitive. as u know too much air and not enough fuel = a lean condition. air is 21% oxygen . Nitrous is higher , i think its 38% maybe. anyway its a good way to SMOKE a motor dicking around with a bullshit kit. on a non race vehical I would be doing the computer , air intake , exhaust and tuning and not worry about shooting juice. what are you going to gain from it. compaired to what it can do. It is no designed nor is it anything like u see in the movies. Systems are tuned and tuned again even to changing track and air conditions present in racing..
So not only will you not get a huge gain from some shitty kit you risk your engine. for what? are you going to put a mid 14 sec truck into the high 13's? it will also raise your cylinder preasure , put un needed stress on pistons ( should be forged) also stresses the rods and the crank.
to properly run nitrous you should have theese impliments installed
wot activation switch
window switch
low fuel preasure cut off
be in control of your timing(2 degrees must be retarded for every 50 horse of spray)
a stand alone fuel system to support the nitrous system
purge valve
bottle heater ( to maintain proper bottle temp to keep proper operating PSI of the system)
a blow down tube from your bottle valve out of the car if the safty blow off pops
you may need to try different heat range plugs to keep them firing optimaly in a more fuel and air rich enviorment with out fouling or burning out.
so now u bought an over priced kit ( zex) 500 bucks that falls short of any sort of viable system and need to buy another grand woth of stuff to properly run nitrous and well hell u might as well save up for a blower and always have the power. Id go into more detal on number of seconds of use per hp and size bottle. but searching nitrous turning u can find that. Again I reinterate that this fad is not all that great of an option for stock rides , espeially ones that arent performance orientated. gears and converter make a difference also. as does the pattern on your cam. blowing 125 horse shot into a mostly stock truck with bolt ons definatly will not net you 125 horse to the wheelsyour mush stock converter is going to soak up some as well as the truck dtive train and the non performance oriented gear ratio.
Just my 2 cents
So not only will you not get a huge gain from some shitty kit you risk your engine. for what? are you going to put a mid 14 sec truck into the high 13's? it will also raise your cylinder preasure , put un needed stress on pistons ( should be forged) also stresses the rods and the crank.
to properly run nitrous you should have theese impliments installed
wot activation switch
window switch
low fuel preasure cut off
be in control of your timing(2 degrees must be retarded for every 50 horse of spray)
a stand alone fuel system to support the nitrous system
purge valve
bottle heater ( to maintain proper bottle temp to keep proper operating PSI of the system)
a blow down tube from your bottle valve out of the car if the safty blow off pops
you may need to try different heat range plugs to keep them firing optimaly in a more fuel and air rich enviorment with out fouling or burning out.
so now u bought an over priced kit ( zex) 500 bucks that falls short of any sort of viable system and need to buy another grand woth of stuff to properly run nitrous and well hell u might as well save up for a blower and always have the power. Id go into more detal on number of seconds of use per hp and size bottle. but searching nitrous turning u can find that. Again I reinterate that this fad is not all that great of an option for stock rides , espeially ones that arent performance orientated. gears and converter make a difference also. as does the pattern on your cam. blowing 125 horse shot into a mostly stock truck with bolt ons definatly will not net you 125 horse to the wheelsyour mush stock converter is going to soak up some as well as the truck dtive train and the non performance oriented gear ratio.
Just my 2 cents
Nitrogen is the buffer, sulfur is to prevent huffing. You can run medical grade with no complications whatsoever, in fact, some people think it runs cleaner. As far as your shopping list, what parts supplier do you work for? I find that people in the industry that stand to benefit from turning a basic nitrous kit into a $2500 endeavor seem to follow the "more accessories are better" idea. Yes, you need some of the items you have listed, but no, everything is not required. I do not understand you saying that someone should just save up for a blower and then saying that nitrous isn't any good for a stock motor. Tell me, what is a nitrous going to do to damage a motor that a blower will not, and tell me why a blower will give a better power gain on a stock motor than nitrous? Do you really think nitrous is only good for less than a second gain on a stock motor? The car in my sig has a 151k mile stock motor in it, drops over 2 seconds off the 1/4 mile ET with nitrous, and has about half of the things on your shopping list, go figure.
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Originally Posted by Badlatitude
id especially not want a trunk full of N20 in my car with dual trunk mounted batteries a fuel cell and 2 fuel pumps the size of lantern batteries.
the point is with somthing as in depth and finicky as N20 all it takes it touching it off while at idle.........
the point is with somthing as in depth and finicky as N20 all it takes it touching it off while at idle.........
Im just trying to stress the fact that he should definatly research every aspect and hazard before spraying his daily driver
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Its not like the movies. ( this falls into that research thing) touching it off at idle = boom just so u know. when u see somone turn their hood scoop into confetti u can bet its n20 related. N20 should only be used when the peddle is to the floor. thats where the miceo switch comes in. low fuel preasure cut off saves ur motor if you have a fuel problem and a window switch gets set to turn the n20 off just short of the rpm where your rev or speed limiter kicks on to keep it safe.
I dont work for any perf company. My point is build a solid system that is fully integrated in your ride. Then again my new ride is getting all of that stuff to back up the fogger. I am planning on spraying a whole lot more then 125 though.
and btw hes got ford pickup. they already make a blower for it and its on stock fords ya know. plus a blower is full time power from idle all the way to redline. Bottles need refills , bottles need a constant temp for consistant performance. My gn was sure alot more fun with a constant power rom its turbo then a juiced regal would have been. No dicking around when somone jumps on you just peddle and go.
I guess im just not seeing the point of having a small kit on a stock pickup. when you could have constant power to the ground.
I have a dually thats way up on the tune shes over 450 horse , intake , full exhaust. runs like a raped date I enjoy it when ever i get the urge to get int he peddle. I wish it was a short bed 2wd though ,, loose alot with a battle shit of a truck. the point is its an all around performance enjoyment. Now if i had a car on a budget and like taking it tot he track and tweaking and tuning then heck yeah spray away. get your car dialed in , mess with shocks and spring and tire preasure , pinion angle ect , shift points ect ect. But for just a street truck ,, i dont see it. just my opinion.
Im also really cautious about n20 because Ive smoked a few sbcs in my day. I also used to snap tail shafts and blow out converters a few times a year when i campanined my 68RS almost a decade ago. I just thinkgoing with nitrous he should be more dedicated to a good solid system. not some F'n dry shot
I dont work for any perf company. My point is build a solid system that is fully integrated in your ride. Then again my new ride is getting all of that stuff to back up the fogger. I am planning on spraying a whole lot more then 125 though.
and btw hes got ford pickup. they already make a blower for it and its on stock fords ya know. plus a blower is full time power from idle all the way to redline. Bottles need refills , bottles need a constant temp for consistant performance. My gn was sure alot more fun with a constant power rom its turbo then a juiced regal would have been. No dicking around when somone jumps on you just peddle and go.
I guess im just not seeing the point of having a small kit on a stock pickup. when you could have constant power to the ground.
I have a dually thats way up on the tune shes over 450 horse , intake , full exhaust. runs like a raped date I enjoy it when ever i get the urge to get int he peddle. I wish it was a short bed 2wd though ,, loose alot with a battle shit of a truck. the point is its an all around performance enjoyment. Now if i had a car on a budget and like taking it tot he track and tweaking and tuning then heck yeah spray away. get your car dialed in , mess with shocks and spring and tire preasure , pinion angle ect , shift points ect ect. But for just a street truck ,, i dont see it. just my opinion.
Im also really cautious about n20 because Ive smoked a few sbcs in my day. I also used to snap tail shafts and blow out converters a few times a year when i campanined my 68RS almost a decade ago. I just thinkgoing with nitrous he should be more dedicated to a good solid system. not some F'n dry shot
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You are correct they do make a blower for it, but at 5k for a blower that will give you just a little bit of a gain over a $600 nitrous system? Like BBB said it will definately show more than 10th's of a second improvement. I'm not looking for somethign thats goign to make me smoke everythign on the road, if that was the case I wouldn't be driving a 5500# truck. I just wanted a bit of a pick up in preformance when I wanted.
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If somone quoted u 5 grand for a blower for that truck they were trying to ROB YOU. Jegs has the 7psi powerdyne blower for 3,499. If you are going to spray the link below includes a WEALTH of info. No matter what you decide to do. Do it 110% if you spray. Dont skimp and use extra care. I will personally be spraying around 400 on a fogger and its really no different then 125 horse shot. excluding timing , preasure and plug range.(in a nut shell) the more throu you are with your system and its hardware the better you will be. There are many safty checks you can add in and also pregressive control boxes that will gradually bring in the hit. You can actually spray a fair amount more on a stock bottom end then they rate if you spray pregressive.a stand alone fuel system and safty checks will allow you to do this. Let it be known that aside from the gas , fuel and ignition systems the converter will be the 1st drive train component to change. Stock and non nitrous converters have fins that are basically tacked on , nitrous converters are fully braised on and have structual support in them.
http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/nitro...-tuning-1.html
http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/nitro...-tuning-1.html
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nos is not flamable.... it is a catalyst... during the chemical reaction(burning gas) the one nitrogen atom seperates from the 2 oxygen atoms .... now you have more oxygen to make a more complete burn of the gas... after the burn the nitogen atom will attract 2 oxygen atoms (basic chemistry) and flow out the exhasut back into it original state as no2..
the movie portray the nos will blow up - now if the gas tank goes and the nos bottle is opened - watch the f out!!!!!!!!!!!
the movie portray the nos will blow up - now if the gas tank goes and the nos bottle is opened - watch the f out!!!!!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by GradeA_TireFryer
nos is not flamable.... it is a catalyst... during the chemical reaction(burning gas) the one nitrogen atom seperates from the 2 oxygen atoms .... now you have more oxygen to make a more complete burn of the gas... after the burn the nitogen atom will attract 2 oxygen atoms (basic chemistry) and flow out the exhasut back into it original state as no2..
the movie portray the nos will blow up - now if the gas tank goes and the nos bottle is opened - watch the f out!!!!!!!!!!!
the movie portray the nos will blow up - now if the gas tank goes and the nos bottle is opened - watch the f out!!!!!!!!!!!
I know how N2O works
