D series turbo, what do you think????
I have a 96 DX civic hatch with the stock D 16 non v tehc with 130xxx miles
Im going turbo, this what im planning to do before i throw on the turbo:
stage 1 ACT clutch
2000 EX manifold
AEM fuel rail and regulator with RC injectors (3?? dont know which ones)
Cometic head gasket
JE rings
and im shot peening(dont think i spelled it right) the rods
(im doubful if i should wait and get JE pistons but i dont have much money)
MSD ignition distributor cap and already have MSD conductor 8.5mm wires
a Skunk2 camgear
This is the turbo that im piecing 2gether
I already have a T3/T4 turbo mint no shaft play or nothing,
a custom turbo manifold, downpipe.
What im planning to get is custom piping and a $250 FMIC from Ebay, Greddy Type S bov, Greddy turbo timer and boost controler,
tial wastegate and all the other things.
Let me know what you guys think. Any comments,suggestions, are welcome. I plan to boost 7-8 psi at daily driving, I dont race that much but when I do i was thinking boostin 10 psi at the most. Do you guys think thats safe? Im not a mechanic or have a lot of knowledge about forced induction or engines, This my first project and my friends that knows a whole lot more than me are going to help me and ill try to learn more. Do you guys think its safe because of the engines age and milage?
Im going turbo, this what im planning to do before i throw on the turbo:
stage 1 ACT clutch
2000 EX manifold
AEM fuel rail and regulator with RC injectors (3?? dont know which ones)
Cometic head gasket
JE rings
and im shot peening(dont think i spelled it right) the rods
(im doubful if i should wait and get JE pistons but i dont have much money)
MSD ignition distributor cap and already have MSD conductor 8.5mm wires
a Skunk2 camgear
This is the turbo that im piecing 2gether
I already have a T3/T4 turbo mint no shaft play or nothing,
a custom turbo manifold, downpipe.
What im planning to get is custom piping and a $250 FMIC from Ebay, Greddy Type S bov, Greddy turbo timer and boost controler,
tial wastegate and all the other things.
Let me know what you guys think. Any comments,suggestions, are welcome. I plan to boost 7-8 psi at daily driving, I dont race that much but when I do i was thinking boostin 10 psi at the most. Do you guys think thats safe? Im not a mechanic or have a lot of knowledge about forced induction or engines, This my first project and my friends that knows a whole lot more than me are going to help me and ill try to learn more. Do you guys think its safe because of the engines age and milage?
Last edited by jhatch10; Aug 14, 2004 at 08:10 AM.
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Id you want my advice, from a guy who destroys SOHC motors for fun....
I assume you want this motor to last, and make decent power... So here goes:
Go with Eagle rods, dont shot pein the stock pencil's that wont help you for shit.
JE pistons are alright, better then stock anyway. I'd go with Arias pistons. Stock pistons will burn up and die very quickly.
The AEM fuel rail is useless for your application, the stock rail will do you good until around 500(at least) or so hp.
Do NOT go with the stupid useless MSD cap and coil. Stick with the wires and stock ignition. Honda ignition has been used for very high hp engines, with no fault.
Don't bother with a cometic headgasket. If you want ANYTHING to break, it'll be that headgasket, and not those cheap rods you have planned on using. If you do get forged internals, the gasket is optional IMHO.
As far as the injectors, it depends on how much power you want to make. With uberdata, and some DSM 450's you can make around 350whp. with no issues.
If you want some inexpensive extra horsepower, add a P2P head(2000ex) or a P28(92-95ex/si) head. It will add a couple horsepower, and raise the compression up a tad for better spool. Depending on what pistons you use, you can control your compression ratio better, the P2P head will raise you to about 9.5:1, which is perfectly tuneable with uberdata.
Tial wastegate is a good choice, a turbo timer is optional. The camgear is useless for ya until you get on a dyno and actually spend an hour tuning it. Even then, with out a cam don't expect more then a couple hp from it.
I assume you want this motor to last, and make decent power... So here goes:
Go with Eagle rods, dont shot pein the stock pencil's that wont help you for shit.
JE pistons are alright, better then stock anyway. I'd go with Arias pistons. Stock pistons will burn up and die very quickly.
The AEM fuel rail is useless for your application, the stock rail will do you good until around 500(at least) or so hp.
Do NOT go with the stupid useless MSD cap and coil. Stick with the wires and stock ignition. Honda ignition has been used for very high hp engines, with no fault.
Don't bother with a cometic headgasket. If you want ANYTHING to break, it'll be that headgasket, and not those cheap rods you have planned on using. If you do get forged internals, the gasket is optional IMHO.
As far as the injectors, it depends on how much power you want to make. With uberdata, and some DSM 450's you can make around 350whp. with no issues.
If you want some inexpensive extra horsepower, add a P2P head(2000ex) or a P28(92-95ex/si) head. It will add a couple horsepower, and raise the compression up a tad for better spool. Depending on what pistons you use, you can control your compression ratio better, the P2P head will raise you to about 9.5:1, which is perfectly tuneable with uberdata.
Tial wastegate is a good choice, a turbo timer is optional. The camgear is useless for ya until you get on a dyno and actually spend an hour tuning it. Even then, with out a cam don't expect more then a couple hp from it.
first (not to sound like im ragging on civics or SOHC's) i say you use your money to buy a motor swap or atleast a vtec head....but just in case you like the thought of having a turboed SOHC....
+1 on the stage 1 clutch if your going to upgrade atleast get a stage 2 the stage ones are usless and its not that much more
also +! on the aem fuel rail....and id go with 450cc injectors and maybe a 255 fuel pump depending on how serious you are about this....
msd ignitions arnt really worth the money unless you a have a full ignition system but the wire upgrades should help and id get atlest 2 prong plugs...
and if you really plan on slapping a T3/T4 with boost controller onto a SOHC i would get all new fordge internals and check the internal walls for cracking or hard wear and possibly get the block hooned
+ i think a T3/T4 puts out up to 20psi if not more if im not mistaken so if you want to run 8psi dailly driving just get an 8psi waste gate and use the $250 for the boost controller on something else
if your going to add a pulley you might want to think about a new cam.
and as for the FMIC a mitsubishi side mount might actually be more efficient that a cheap generic frount mount and coast you a hell of a lot less (that is unless your getting a brand name one for that price)
and you might want to consider upgradding the valve system i dont think stock d16's are made to handle a lot of HP
once again sorry if it sems like im being hard on your plans its just that i believe in doing something right if your going to do it all...plus id hate to see a post where you need something cause it blewup....but good luck id love to hear how it goes when your done...or some pics would be cool
+1 on the stage 1 clutch if your going to upgrade atleast get a stage 2 the stage ones are usless and its not that much more
also +! on the aem fuel rail....and id go with 450cc injectors and maybe a 255 fuel pump depending on how serious you are about this....
msd ignitions arnt really worth the money unless you a have a full ignition system but the wire upgrades should help and id get atlest 2 prong plugs...
and if you really plan on slapping a T3/T4 with boost controller onto a SOHC i would get all new fordge internals and check the internal walls for cracking or hard wear and possibly get the block hooned
+ i think a T3/T4 puts out up to 20psi if not more if im not mistaken so if you want to run 8psi dailly driving just get an 8psi waste gate and use the $250 for the boost controller on something else
if your going to add a pulley you might want to think about a new cam.
and as for the FMIC a mitsubishi side mount might actually be more efficient that a cheap generic frount mount and coast you a hell of a lot less (that is unless your getting a brand name one for that price)
and you might want to consider upgradding the valve system i dont think stock d16's are made to handle a lot of HP
once again sorry if it sems like im being hard on your plans its just that i believe in doing something right if your going to do it all...plus id hate to see a post where you need something cause it blewup....but good luck id love to hear how it goes when your done...or some pics would be cool
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Bizzare Customs
Land O' Lakes, FL
Bizzare Customs
Land O' Lakes, FL
true ive just only seen one SOHC that really made me go DAMN and that was bananna's but it wasnt really a factory 1.6 he bored it out and everything and lots of money but who knows yours might be the second....let mekknow how it goes
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Bizzare Customs
Land O' Lakes, FL
Bizzare Customs
Land O' Lakes, FL
Originally posted by Cronic
You've not been around for serious single cams then.
You've not been around for serious single cams then.
On topic, I definately agree with everyone else about getting the forged internals. If you're taking apart the block you might as well put them in. A T3/T4 is capable of quite a bit of power, get the internals and have a setup capable of 400whp, don't get them and have a setup good for no more than 200whp. You will want more power later, trust me.
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-00 Civic EX Coupe BUILT D16Y8, Precision SC50, 12.80@105.8 14psi
-00 Chevrolet S10 LS 4.3L V6 Gas Guzzler
http://www.Sohchonda.com
Honda SOHC & D Series Resource
-00 Civic EX Coupe BUILT D16Y8, Precision SC50, 12.80@105.8 14psi
-00 Chevrolet S10 LS 4.3L V6 Gas Guzzler
http://www.Sohchonda.com
Honda SOHC & D Series Resource


