LS Vtec turbo set-up
Honda Tech/ Local AssHole
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,662
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dude your best bet is to get a FRESH EMPTY LS Block and start from scratch !! I can give you a list of do and donts and what you need piece by piece ! If you wanna go forged it makes it easier but if your going with stck internals youre gonna encounter some weak points !. I have A LS Block and Balanced crank with GSR Pumps I was doing LS Vtec but decided to sell my car or go with a B20 instead. Basic Build up for LS VTEC is simple,
B18B Block perfreably with air oil seperator
B18B Crank
p72 Pumps ie. OIl and Water
Then internals youll want these
Crower Rods Stock length
and your choice of pistons weisco, endyn whoever you want bore is up to you ! Stock is ok but ihgh boost youll want sleeves or some sort of block guard like STR's
But if you want larger bore ad stroger block B20 with a closed deck is better and also you use LS rods BUT use B20 Pistons and i think wesico makes the VTEC version.
Clevitte or Top line bearings !
Then you have to get a VTEC head Preferably Type R or B16 B16 is closer to Type R than the GSR is !! But all will work none the less. after thats all done you can handle like 15-19 psi easy !! but build the head if you dont want your head to fall apart at like 9k rpm !! it depends on your wallet how fast your motor will be and how long it will last !! If you need parts i have shit everywhere let me know !!
B18B Block perfreably with air oil seperator
B18B Crank
p72 Pumps ie. OIl and Water
Then internals youll want these
Crower Rods Stock length
and your choice of pistons weisco, endyn whoever you want bore is up to you ! Stock is ok but ihgh boost youll want sleeves or some sort of block guard like STR's
But if you want larger bore ad stroger block B20 with a closed deck is better and also you use LS rods BUT use B20 Pistons and i think wesico makes the VTEC version.
Clevitte or Top line bearings !
Then you have to get a VTEC head Preferably Type R or B16 B16 is closer to Type R than the GSR is !! But all will work none the less. after thats all done you can handle like 15-19 psi easy !! but build the head if you dont want your head to fall apart at like 9k rpm !! it depends on your wallet how fast your motor will be and how long it will last !! If you need parts i have shit everywhere let me know !!
Engineer at the source
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,722
Likes: 0
Originally posted by 99B16Si
no machine work is done to the block to prepare it for ls/vtec. all the work is done to the head.
no machine work is done to the block to prepare it for ls/vtec. all the work is done to the head.
Basic Build up for LS VTEC is simple,
B18B Block perfreably with air oil seperator
B18B Crank
p72 Pumps ie. OIl and Water
Then internals youll want these
Crower Rods Stock length
and your choice of pistons weisco, endyn whoever you want bore is up to you ! Stock is ok but ihgh boost youll want sleeves or some sort of block guard like STR's
But if you want larger bore ad stroger block B20 with a closed deck is better and also you use LS rods BUT use B20 Pistons and i think wesico makes the VTEC version.
Clevitte or Top line bearings !
Then you have to get a VTEC head Preferably Type R or B16 B16 is closer to Type R than the GSR is !! But all will work none the less. after thats all done you can handle like 15-19 psi easy !! but build the head if you dont want your head to fall apart at like 9k rpm !! it depends on your wallet how fast your motor will be and how long it will last !! If you need parts i have shit everywhere let me know !!
B18B Block perfreably with air oil seperator
B18B Crank
p72 Pumps ie. OIl and Water
Then internals youll want these
Crower Rods Stock length
and your choice of pistons weisco, endyn whoever you want bore is up to you ! Stock is ok but ihgh boost youll want sleeves or some sort of block guard like STR's
But if you want larger bore ad stroger block B20 with a closed deck is better and also you use LS rods BUT use B20 Pistons and i think wesico makes the VTEC version.
Clevitte or Top line bearings !
Then you have to get a VTEC head Preferably Type R or B16 B16 is closer to Type R than the GSR is !! But all will work none the less. after thats all done you can handle like 15-19 psi easy !! but build the head if you dont want your head to fall apart at like 9k rpm !! it depends on your wallet how fast your motor will be and how long it will last !! If you need parts i have shit everywhere let me know !!
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,540
Likes: 0
Originally posted by 60-1EK
Who said anything about machining the block?
Who said anything about machining the block?
Read Below
Originally posted by dwlsrx8
thanks for the info, See I have managed to pull a LS B-18 block that has had the v-tec head on it before.... So you can say at least that part has bee done.... Currently I am looking for a Morroso Oil pain "5 qt" and an oil cooler.... Starting w/ the block first.... My wondering is this I dont know the person that owned or biult the block but I was there when the head came off... How can I tell if it has been resleeved or w/ a Vtec head would it have been resleeved to handle what was on it??? I do know that the there is rods and ARP bolts on it all ready, but not sure about anything else... hit me back and let me know anything about what to look for....
thanks for the info, See I have managed to pull a LS B-18 block that has had the v-tec head on it before.... So you can say at least that part has bee done.... Currently I am looking for a Morroso Oil pain "5 qt" and an oil cooler.... Starting w/ the block first.... My wondering is this I dont know the person that owned or biult the block but I was there when the head came off... How can I tell if it has been resleeved or w/ a Vtec head would it have been resleeved to handle what was on it??? I do know that the there is rods and ARP bolts on it all ready, but not sure about anything else... hit me back and let me know anything about what to look for....
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As someone previously mentioned, please stick with OEM bearings. Do not machine the crank more then a VERY thin micropollish, don't use a block girdle, at most, when you sleeve it, have the company O-ring the block (partial closed deck).
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Spyderxl98z24
... B18B Block perfreably with air oil seperator
B18B Crank
p72 Pumps ie. OIl and Water
Then internals youll want these
Crower Rods Stock length
and your choice of pistons weisco, endyn whoever you want bore is up to you ! Stock is ok but ihgh boost youll want sleeves or some sort of block guard like STR's
But if you want larger bore ad stroger block B20 with a closed deck is better and also you use LS rods BUT use B20 Pistons and i think wesico makes the VTEC version.
Clevitte or Top line bearings !
Then you have to get a VTEC head Preferably Type R or B16 B16 is closer to Type R than the GSR is !! But all will work none the less. after thats all done you can handle like 15-19 psi easy !! but build the head if you dont want your head to fall apart at like 9k rpm !! it depends on your wallet how fast your motor will be and how long it will last !! If you need parts i have shit everywhere let me know !!
... B18B Block perfreably with air oil seperator
B18B Crank
p72 Pumps ie. OIl and Water
Then internals youll want these
Crower Rods Stock length
and your choice of pistons weisco, endyn whoever you want bore is up to you ! Stock is ok but ihgh boost youll want sleeves or some sort of block guard like STR's
But if you want larger bore ad stroger block B20 with a closed deck is better and also you use LS rods BUT use B20 Pistons and i think wesico makes the VTEC version.
Clevitte or Top line bearings !
Then you have to get a VTEC head Preferably Type R or B16 B16 is closer to Type R than the GSR is !! But all will work none the less. after thats all done you can handle like 15-19 psi easy !! but build the head if you dont want your head to fall apart at like 9k rpm !! it depends on your wallet how fast your motor will be and how long it will last !! If you need parts i have shit everywhere let me know !!
Im not too savvy on LS/VTEC's PM KJ on this. However, I believe KJ suggested GSR sized forged internals for the LS block, IE GSR crank, Forged GSR (Arias or wiseco are my favorite)pistons/(eagle will do fine)rods. I believe this keeps the R/S ratio at a great point for higher revving.
Block guard is a horrible idea, stick with a sleeved block and if you really want, go partial closed deck from GEM.
The B20 does have a larger bore, but effectivly it has a thinner sleeve because of this. it also does NOT have a closed deck. LS and B20 rods are the same IIRC. an LS block sleeved and bored to 84mm(2 litre) is the same thickness as a B20 sleeved would be, so there's really no difference. B20 and LS cranks are also the same.
VTEC version?
*sigh*Stick to a stock redline of whatever head you purchase, depending on if your keeping it stock or not, just so you don't start to float a valve or anything unholy like that.
Of course the ITR head is better, but much too pricey IMHO, B16 heads are cheap because you can find older ones. GSR is my preference. Rev's higher stock also.
Once sleeved GEM says you could run 30+psi on them, provided your internals and tuning allow such a high boost pressure.
Anyone with knowledge please feel free to make corrections or additions.
The G-14 Classified
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,265
Likes: 0
Originally posted by Cronic
Where can I start... *shakes head*
.
Anyone with knowledge please feel free to make corrections or additions.
Where can I start... *shakes head*
.
Anyone with knowledge please feel free to make corrections or additions.
__________________
Boost...it's a hell-of-a drug
Boost...it's a hell-of-a drug
Honda Tech/ Local AssHole
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 0
The B20 does have a larger bore, but effectivly it has a thinner sleeve because of this. it also does NOT have a closed deck
i beg to differ th B20Z or whatever has a closed deck design the wwater jackets DO NOT havean upper openeing around the Cyl walls. he B18 Series does The design was due to the larger bore and thiner walls as you said ! take a B20 apart and look again your thinking of closed deck by deck heighth definition ! Im a honda tech dont correct me lol jk a zero clearence head has no valve clearance only by recess's in the piston dome ! The Larger B20 would be better for a turbo setup 2.0liters are one of the best displacments for this why do you think every turbo car made by every car company is a two liter !! Nissan Silivia 2.0, 4G63 2.0L Chevy ecotec turbo 2.0L.
But the 1.8 liter is also good like i said before its your wallets desicion ! If it was my engine id go with what i said before.
Sleeving a block can be costly and if they screw up your screwed and there is no way to tell who messed up !! a Block guard IS good for low boost apps it just strengthens the upper cylinder wall where THE COMBUSTION AND PRESSURE tale place a sleeve only covers half a cylinder for that reason !! i wouldnt sleeve unless im boring it ! There are many ways to set this up ! its really up to you how far and which way you wanna do it !.
VTEC shit.. man oh man !!!
I agree with the KEEP IT AT THE REDLINE THE HEAD IS DESIGNED FOR UNLESS !!!!! you rebuild it for more !! Sometimes on larger turbos you need more RPM's a GSR turns what like 7500 rpm turbos balanced engines and high rev cams will take you to 9K and make good power !!
But im gonna say this again ! YOUR WALLET WILL DECIDE !!! and to make everything work it has to be tuned properly to take full advantage of everything !!
But im talking about a bad ass fully built balls to the wall 20psi 9krpm engine !! You can effectivly use ALL stock parts and pump 12psi and push 290whp whcih is more than enough for street use !! thats good 11's !! I have an article on a B20 with type R head all stock internals with a greddy Turbo and has like 290+whp and runs 11's all day long with a HKS ECM and lil crappy bolt on !! it all depends on you !! and your wallet
i beg to differ th B20Z or whatever has a closed deck design the wwater jackets DO NOT havean upper openeing around the Cyl walls. he B18 Series does The design was due to the larger bore and thiner walls as you said ! take a B20 apart and look again your thinking of closed deck by deck heighth definition ! Im a honda tech dont correct me lol jk a zero clearence head has no valve clearance only by recess's in the piston dome ! The Larger B20 would be better for a turbo setup 2.0liters are one of the best displacments for this why do you think every turbo car made by every car company is a two liter !! Nissan Silivia 2.0, 4G63 2.0L Chevy ecotec turbo 2.0L.
But the 1.8 liter is also good like i said before its your wallets desicion ! If it was my engine id go with what i said before.
Sleeving a block can be costly and if they screw up your screwed and there is no way to tell who messed up !! a Block guard IS good for low boost apps it just strengthens the upper cylinder wall where THE COMBUSTION AND PRESSURE tale place a sleeve only covers half a cylinder for that reason !! i wouldnt sleeve unless im boring it ! There are many ways to set this up ! its really up to you how far and which way you wanna do it !.
VTEC shit.. man oh man !!!
I agree with the KEEP IT AT THE REDLINE THE HEAD IS DESIGNED FOR UNLESS !!!!! you rebuild it for more !! Sometimes on larger turbos you need more RPM's a GSR turns what like 7500 rpm turbos balanced engines and high rev cams will take you to 9K and make good power !!
But im gonna say this again ! YOUR WALLET WILL DECIDE !!! and to make everything work it has to be tuned properly to take full advantage of everything !!
But im talking about a bad ass fully built balls to the wall 20psi 9krpm engine !! You can effectivly use ALL stock parts and pump 12psi and push 290whp whcih is more than enough for street use !! thats good 11's !! I have an article on a B20 with type R head all stock internals with a greddy Turbo and has like 290+whp and runs 11's all day long with a HKS ECM and lil crappy bolt on !! it all depends on you !! and your wallet
Honda Tech/ Local AssHole
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,662
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"You failed to even mention the block girdle issue. Also, stick with OEM bearings. Or ACL at worst."
Well thats kinda a no brainer !! Who wouldt use one ? Theres a company who makes girdles for B18B's and B20's theyve even incoperated a full length girdle. Ill have to look for the company.
Oh and for the P72 oil pump and stuff youll also need the P72 windage tray, oil pickup and block girdle !!! use a P72/B18C1 Timing belt as well. I think that covers most of it !
1. B20Z/B18B block w/air oil seperator w LS crank
2. P72 or B16 Head Year depends on your OBD System
3. LS Length Rods (eagle,corwer) $$ decides quality
4. A.M. Pistons ie Weisco, JE, crower, whoever you want
5. Bearings are iffy ! Some say stock i say stronger then stock but use the stock mic's Top line or clevite are nice.
6. P72 Oil Pump with P72 timing Belt drive gear
7. P72 Water Pump
8. P72 Oil pickup
9. P72 Windage Tray
10. P72 Girdle
11. Oil feed kit for Vtec head
OPtions here
A. STR block Girdle
B. Sleeves
C. Rework Head with Cams, Valves, Springs, etc
Mating Info:
You gotta Machine the head to fit and oil lines have to be run, Im sure you know where to get the instructions if not try
C-speedracing.com, instrcutions with pictures.
Or you could usea combo of stock parts like this, I know a guy who has this setup and its like 220hp with all stock stuff.
B20 Block STOCK everything
B16 Head Stock Everything
Oil feed kit and a i wanna say HKS ECM programmed for this setup. No turbo but that makes it no fun !!
Well thats kinda a no brainer !! Who wouldt use one ? Theres a company who makes girdles for B18B's and B20's theyve even incoperated a full length girdle. Ill have to look for the company.
Oh and for the P72 oil pump and stuff youll also need the P72 windage tray, oil pickup and block girdle !!! use a P72/B18C1 Timing belt as well. I think that covers most of it !
1. B20Z/B18B block w/air oil seperator w LS crank
2. P72 or B16 Head Year depends on your OBD System
3. LS Length Rods (eagle,corwer) $$ decides quality
4. A.M. Pistons ie Weisco, JE, crower, whoever you want
5. Bearings are iffy ! Some say stock i say stronger then stock but use the stock mic's Top line or clevite are nice.
6. P72 Oil Pump with P72 timing Belt drive gear
7. P72 Water Pump
8. P72 Oil pickup
9. P72 Windage Tray
10. P72 Girdle
11. Oil feed kit for Vtec head
OPtions here
A. STR block Girdle
B. Sleeves
C. Rework Head with Cams, Valves, Springs, etc
Mating Info:
You gotta Machine the head to fit and oil lines have to be run, Im sure you know where to get the instructions if not try
C-speedracing.com, instrcutions with pictures.
Or you could usea combo of stock parts like this, I know a guy who has this setup and its like 220hp with all stock stuff.
B20 Block STOCK everything
B16 Head Stock Everything
Oil feed kit and a i wanna say HKS ECM programmed for this setup. No turbo but that makes it no fun !!
