That is quite the pickle you are in! I would say a leaking injector but you said no matter what injector is on cylinder one it still misfires. Maybe that injector is not getting fuel up to it until higher RPMs. Just a thought.

 

the weird thing is injector #1 is first inline to get fuel on the rail.

 

so i drove it a little more and when i get on the gas it runs perfect but when the engine decelerates it misses. also idling and decelerating is the only time it has problems. i dont know if i should try spark plug wires because when i swap plug wires (keeping firing order the same) theres no change, but thats the only thing i havent tried. this is my dd so i need this fixed soon and a shop wants like $80 for a diagnosis.

 

Next try rail and injectors aimed into a pan to see if they are all squirting.
Should see some reaction on cranking.

If one injector is not squirting, swap it in line with one that is. That should tell us if it is the injector
or the position in line or if it is the wiring....since you say they all are pulsing the noid light.

What city are you in?

 

im in dunedin, i already tried taking the fuel rail out and cranking the motor, all the injectors are squirting. i also got spark plug wires and a distributor rotor and none of that worked. im 100% sure its getting fuel, air, and a spark, its got 180 psi compression, valve and ignition timing is good, and since the wires and rotor didnt help i returned them in exchange for a throttle position sensor. i think that may be the culprit because when i drive it it accelerates just fine and the engine decelerates just fine, its only at idle and at very slight throttle and when i try to get a resitance reading i cant even get one. wtf if this isnt the problem ill just build my vh45 and fix this prob for good, with a new motor lol

 

then if your getting fuel just fine then it would have to be spark. Check everything that has to do with spark. Wires, plugs, coils, ETC.

 

i did, i have tried new plugs, wires, tested the coil (good), distributor cap and rotor, and none of that change a thing. how do i know i have a bad tps, i have tried getting a resistance reading on it the way the fsm tells me and i get nothing. i cant get a resistance reading on the old one or the new one and im using the volt meter the same way i would to get a reading from all my injectors (which turned out good). i turned on the battery and on the female connector going to the tps i put the red prong in the middle terminal and grounded the black prong and i got 2.5 volts. i dont know if thats right i couldnt find anything on what the voltage should be going to the tps.

 

that middle wire that i tested was the signal wire and i think its supposed to read close to 0 volts but it reads 2.5 volts, the terminal to the far right read 5 volts. correct me if im wrong on this.

 

so i swapped a tps with a new one and no change. could a distributor cause a misfire on 1 cylinder and only at idle. also does an idle air control valve have anything to do with helping keep steady rpms, like if an iacv is bad could it cause misfires if im trying to keep a steady 3000 rpm?

 

To check for a bad IACV, the autoparts stores will do a check engine light
diagnostic for free.
Without confusing them with your story, I would ask if they would check it
anyway since the light could be malfunctioning.