I can, have to take some parts off in sequence then re-install to try and get an accurate test.. IM getting to the point where I need to check that... Seeing as I now have trigger from the ECU and the CAS finally.

Filtered fuel feeds the rail. Ive tried with the fuel lines hooked up in both opposing locations. And now have them hooked up the way they should be.. Feed to the rear and return to the front. Also have removed fuel filter just incase it was too restrictive. No dice on that either.

 

do something crazy and pull the return off and see if it just pours out fuel when the key is turned.

This just sounds dumb to me... the injectors click... we think we have fuel... everything "should" be working.

If you do have what looks like more than ample fuel coming out of the return line, then take it all apart and see if the injectors fire when you turn the CAS by hand.

 

Got to mess with it for a little bit before the rain..

Added Ground from intake manifold to chassis.

Checked NOID on injector harness again and no light.

Removed CAS and spun by hand.. Clicked, cycled fuel pump cut out for start sequence, then something purged from behind intake manifold.. Could not cause this again and im stumped as to where and why this happened.

Put other spare CAS in (now I don't know which one is from old RB and "new" RB)
Spun CAS injectors clicked, fuel pump cycled.. Bolted it in and for a split second she started to turn over. Hooked up NOID light and there is signal.

Currently she is back to not running on her own.

@Empire I will see about doing those things tomorrow after work.. given the weather works out for a little while.

To everyone whos posted.. thanks for the input you guys are being a great help.

 

Is mech timing correct?

 

Timing is all good..

 

Are you sure the new CAS was installed correctly and not 180* out? Not sure if thats possible on the RB cas but I know other Mitsu sensors are like that.

 

There is a half moon down inside to line it up... and when the car runs off starting fluid.. nothing sounds funky..

 

it really just sounds like you're not getting fuel.
given everything you've said up to this point, I'd start with making sure there was ample fuel in the rail.
Pull the return line off, and see how much of a mess you can make when you turn the key. there should be a significant amount of fuel coming out. If there is any doubt, chances are it isn't enough. To be better safe than sorry, I'd get a fuel pressure gauge on there and see what's up.
From there, I'd want to get the fuel rail off and see what the injectors are doing when the key is turned.
I'd get it set up to see them fire when manually turning the CAS as well as when the Key is turned. this might help narrow down where the problem is. If everything works with turning the CAS manually, but not when the key is turned, then you know your wiring problem has to do with the ignition circuits.

When was the last time you Ohm tested the injectors?
You'll still hear that audible click even if the injector is bad. All that click is, is the magnet moving around. If the injector is bad, that doesn't mean that magnet isn't still moving.
You can ohm test them before pulling the rail off, but even if they test good, I'd still want to pull the rail off just to know for a certain fact that the injector is spraying fuel.

I would bet that in doing all of that, you find what the problem is. You've ruled out so many other options already.

 

There is a pretty solid flow that comes out and fills a bottle pretty quick. Doesn't seem that 'high' of pressure as its just a return.. I forgot to bring home the fuel pressure gauge, again, to be able to check for exact pressure on both sides of the lines.

The rain started acting up right before I went to take the fuel rail off.. so hopefully tomorrow I can remember the gauge and get the fuel rail taken care of in one shot.

 

Dont you have two swaps? Can you not just take the old rail and injectors and plug in? That would at least tell you if your harness/ecu is good lol.

If you do not have these, and it turns out to be an injector, fpr, or rail (I dunno how just sayin lol) issue I have a spare set of rb20 injectors and a rail somewhere around here.