This just started happening about 2 weeks ago. As soon as I hit mid boost, my wide band drops down to the mid 10's and starts breaking up. Another thing is that at a cold start idle, my wide band reads at roughly 13.2. Once I get about 3-6 miles from my starting point, it goes back to reading and fluctuating in between 14.5-15.0. I got ROM tuned just over a year ago and the wide band has always read in between 14.5-15.0 up until recently.

No mater what the wide band reads at, once I hit mid boost, the wide band will drop to mid 10's and then break up.

Any solutions?? The walbrough fuel pump is about 4 years old. I have s15 injectors...no telling how old those are because I got them used. Maybe FPR?

 

Seriously....42 views and no one can say or suggest a thing?!?!?! I changed the plugs, checked fuel pressure, (41 psi in acc mode and 35psi w/ the car running, in neutral). I even checked the pulsation coming from the fuel injector pigtails, they we're good.....everything that I've checked so far is good. I also checked the 3 vacuum sources that I have. The next thing to change is the fuel filter and check the injectors them selves. After that, I'm stuck on ideas. Some one lend me some thoughts.

 

Sounds like a boost leak maybe. Check to make sure all couplers are tight and not ripped, also is your bov maybe opening a lil under mid/heavy boost, may need to tighten the spring?

What are your plugs gapped at? I doubt thats it but I had to ask.

Are you running a blow through or draw through maf setup? Blow through setups somtimes damage the hotwires on the maf since its in the direct stream of positive pressure, I know from experience as thats how my setup is.

The whole idle afr's thing is possibly from the temp sensor going bad, but probably from the main issue you have since the idle afr issue began at the same time as the main issue, right? GL dude, stupid little things like this are annoying.

 

Checked my couplers, all 4 are good. My plugs are gapped at .36, same as the previous plugs. I think that the culprit might be my air filter. I think it needs a cleaning. We'll see here in the next day or so after I clean it tonight and let it sit out in the sun tomorrow. But yea, both problems that you mentioned in your last paragraph happened right around the same time.

Edit: It's a draw through system that I have

 

Well check that coolant temp sensor...thats a good idea. When it fouls out the car will run too rich which can cause stuttering. Also misfires can cause that, and will make your wideband read rich. 10.5:1 isnt really that bad though. Alot of stock turbo cars run around 10:1.

I would, in this order:

check coolant temp sensor
do a boost leak test (looking at your couplers wont tell you shit...you need to actually pressurize the system and find all your leaks if you want the car to run good)
inspect the ignition system...pull spark plugs, check, regap if necessary, or try new plugs...test wires...check coil packs for melting, missing insulation, corrosion etc...

then get back to us if that doesnt solve anything.

 

Which sensor should I check, the one running to the ecu or the dash? The one running to the ecu sounds more practical I presume. I'll check that w/ an ohm meter and also see what happens when I clean out that air filter. I'm really leaning towards that right now, the filter being dirty. I remember when I went to get tuned last year that I doubled up some church socks and threw them over the maf for the drive over to Tampa because I didn't have an adapter plate for the filter. After Martin tweaked some shit, the pulls still weren't as strong as they should have been...more less, no where near what they should have been. Come to find out, the doubled up church socks where suffocating the maf because they weren't allowing proper air flow, thus making the car break up in boost and restricting nearly a hundred horse power. I've been using this air filter for roughly 3 years off and on it hasn't been cleaned in the last 13 months, sooo...

 

Changed coolant temp sensor. Did a z32 fuel filter. Problem is still there. I'm gonna try to rig up a way to pressurize the boost system and do a better check for leaks. And probably swap the O2 sensor for another fresh one.

 

o2 sensor doesnt care what happens at WOT. Definitely a boost leak test is in order..

 

+1 on boost leak test. try swapping out maf if you can get ahold of a known good one, adjust tps by voltage, also double check ignition timing.

 

Bitches dont know bout the dataloggers CJ. lol