Fellas,

I picked up a "new" walbro fuel pump from a fellow TR member because my other pump was showing indications of taking a dump on me.

I installed it last night, mind you I had a walbro in the tank already, so i didnt need to wire anything up...just plug it in and go.

First start: the KA turned over and over and nothing...so i pulled the pump and checked the make sure it worked (jumped it direct to the battery - and it wrrr'd away so that wasnt it...). Then went to the fuse box and poof!! - the 15amp fuse was blown. Reassembled everything, replaced the fuse and poof again. WTF right - its 12midnight i'm doing this, so I'm quite annoyed @ this point.

Just for Giggles I toss a 20amp fuse in the slot and it takes right off...fires up and runs perfect. Take a test drive, go over a speed bump and pop...the 20 amp goes pop!!

I'm thinking that i might have disturbed the wiring enought to make this happen...especially since the "speed bump" issue. I've driven 30 miles or so since with out an issue...but i'm still running a 20amp fuse...I know "not good". :\

Is there anything else you could think that might be causing this issue, other than crap wiring? Bad pump?

Thanks ,
-Royce

Also - I plan on installing an inline Fuel Pressure Gauge after my FPR so i can confirm decent fuel pressure...what, where and how would you guys recommend i do so? (yes, i've googled - just looking for additional feed back from you guys, maybe someone that has done the same.)

 

that is strange that it would have that much draw...
google the part number on the side of the pump, it might be something dumb like that particular pump is meant for a different car or something like that. Usually doesn't make a different, but who knows.

I'd go through and double check the grounds on it. the speed bump issue makes me thinks that the ground is the problem. Instead of grounding it through the harness. Make a new ground on the chassis right next to the pump. That way you know it is good.
double check the connections on the pump itself. don't want those to be the least bit loose.
while you're back there, get the car idling and see what the voltage draw is with a multi meter.
In my experience, it seems that those pumps can sit out brand new, on the shelf for months and months with no problems, but as soon as they get used, their shelf life drops to near nothing. so the pump could be bad if it has sat out for a while.

as for the inline pressure gauge, I'd say to do it right between the filter and the rail. I've always been told you want it as close to the rail as possible, if having a gauge on the FPR isn't an option. And you want it after the filter.
Just get a nice little water filled one that can handle the vibrations and stick it in there.

EDIT another place to double check is where the wires go through that plate. Every so often, they pull loose, wear away, or whatever and causes it to short out that way. both on the plate that goes on the tank, and the cover.

 

Hmm...Good suggestions to check on. They make sense.

Now as far as the gauge location: Which would be more ideal? The gauge before the FPR (unregulated FP) or after the FPR (regulated FP)??


Empire: Thanks for the feedback!!

 

after the FPR is going to tell you what the FPR is letting go by, which isn't the pressure that is actually in the rail. You want the pressure before the FPR.
I think you're thinking backwards in terms of the FPR.
the fuel comes into the rail, through the injectors, then to the FPR. The FPR increases the pressure in the rail by closing up the exit.
make sense?

so the gauge needs to be just before the fuel gets to the injectors to tell you what the fuel pressure is at, at the injectors.

 

check wiring to fuel pump relay

 

Ass backwards huh? OK...yes it makes sense. It bleeds off the pressure within rather than allowing pressure though. Gotcha.

Another good place to check. Thanks cjackson!!

 

pretty much. when the pressure needs to be low, it just opens up and lets the fuel flow through at whatever pressure the pump is making. But when it wants more pressure, like when you step on the throttle, it closes up which makes the pressure build up in the rail.
An adjustable pressure regulator just lets you manually control the size of the exit hole. the smaller the hole, the higher the pressure.

neat little tid bit. if you want to bump your fuel pressure up a little bit, you can take a screw driver or something and dent in the bottom of the stock FPR. that will keep the pressure higher all of the time.

 

Looks like base on images from the interwebs that a good spot to Tee into the Fuel line would be the lower fuel line on top of the intake manifold. That would make the gauge easy to read and safe away from damage. Also would make it easy to spot any sort of leaks.

What do ya think?

-Royce

 

can't picture exactly what you mean, but you'd want to put it in the line that goes from the filter to the rail.

 

Right...its the bottom one that runs over the top of the intake manifold...before it gets to the rail...actually splits thru the 4 intake runner. You follow?