so this thread took some different turns.

so seriously, what are you trying to accomplish?
What is the budget we are working with?

If you're just looking for a decent amount of power, NA, and on the cheaper side, then you need to ditch the single cam idea. You can make some pretty decent power with them, but you're going to be spending a pretty penny to get it.
If you get your hands on a dual cam engine, you would have a much easier/better time trying to get parts for it and getting some power out of it, without breaking the bank on custom parts.
Budget is going to dictate how much power you are going to get out of it.
bored .40 over with high compression, ITBs and light weight everything, would get you some decent power.
What is your budget?
What are your goals?

 

well thank you man, i have been reasearching it for a long time. but i have an s13 coupe with a s14 sr with a stage 3 clutch, boost controller, and some more bolt ons. and i was drifting it and i made the car to pretty to drift. so i bought a lil hatch for 700 bucks that runs and drives. i then lowerd it and welded the diffrential, but now power... i wanted to make some decent power outa it just to get out there and drift. as i was looking for parts they just didnt come very easy. i really dont have any preferance on what motor it is i just want to have a decent drift set up. i have the head off and got it shaved running high compression, but the problem is cant find the rest to finish it. so im not sure if it is a better idea to put the motor back together and sell it, and maby get into a cheep dual cam becuase i did see one for sale that runs for 500 bucks with a tranny, and yes the parts for that are simple to find. every single 240sx part selling sight has them... i also herd this guy tell me i can get a gm ls1 for 400 bucks but im not sure what consists of the engine swap. and lastly there is the rb20 i herd that was a good and easy motor to swap into becuase there is only a couple wires to wire unlike the sr witch gave me a huge headache. but im not sure if the engine mounts and such work for that, im just stumped on what to do.

 

oh and budget, i probly will have 800-1000 to put into it

 

and probly more once i gut the car and sell interior parts and such like that

 

k... with that budget, you need to put the SOHC cam together, and sell it. you won't make the power you want to make with it and you'll end up hating yourself later for it.
Buy a DOHC.
eliminate all of the emissions and anything you don't need off of the manifold.
google s13 emissions removal. you should find some good walk throughs
With the manifold off, get yourself a dremel, with that extention peice and some grinding bits. You'll want to grind out all of the bumps and what not in the inside of the manifold.
google DIY port and polish s13 manifold. There is a good write up by a guy that has the Username bigvinnie. Can't remember what forum he is on, but its out there.
Meanwhile, carefully pull apart the block.
Get your hands on some SOHC pistons. a lot of the places that sell rebuild kits, will put the SOHC pistons in your kit if you call and tell them that's what you want when you order it.
(normally, I would tell you to tear it all the way down and do a totall rebuild, but that isn't in your budget, so I highly suggest getting this all together, then start saving for a "real" rebuild kit with things like oil pump and all that fun stuff)
Get the SOHC pistons installed with new rings and bearings and all that fun.
Meanwhile, I would send the head off to at least get decked. (Normally, I would suggest getting it totally worked over, hot tanks, valve seals, new valves and springs, 3 angle valve job etc, but that is again, out of your budget. so once you get the cash saved up for a real nice rebuild kit, save up for an extra head and get all of the work done to it.)
The SOHC pistons should get you 11.1to1. (I think, I honestly can't remeber if it is lower than that or not)
Getting the head decked should bump that up to between 11.3 and 11.5 to 1.
depending on how much the machine shop charges, you should be between 600 and 800 bucks. depends on how much your little rebuild kit is and how much the machine shop charges.
So now you have a nice smoothed out intake manifold, bolted up to a head with a fresh headgasket and new single cam pistons. At this point, I would suggest getting it broken in. you'll have to run premium and you'll have to play with your timing to keep from detonating.
Then relocate your battery to the trunk to make way for a custom intake.
You can either choose to buy an intake and make it work, or you can get creative and make something that will work just as well.
If you want to pinch your pennies, you can make an intake using dryer vent piping. The hard metal stuff that you rotate each section to make a bend. bend it around to get it to point in the right direction, then use a little straight piece to put the air filter where you want it behind the headlight. Use rubber cement or something to seal it up and make it air tight. Then maybe spray it with rubberized undercoating for good measure. You'll have to hit up goodyear rubber to get a coupler made that is the right size and what not for your new intake. It isn't perfect, but it will get the job done better than stock and much cheaper than aftermarket
Maybe even take it a step further and build a little insulated air box our of that flame retardant insulation board and A/C duct tape and use one of the slinky style dryer vents to vent air from the little air vent below the head light up to the air filter.
again, not awesome, but it gets the job done.
Then get yourself some off-the-shelf header. A total custom one would be best, but again, out of the price range. Anything is better than stock really.
Then go crazy with heat wrap. Wrap the header really well. Its cool to keep under hood temps down, but more importantly, the hotter the exhaust gas is, the faster it will move and the faster it moves, the more vacuum (or Scavenging effect) it has and therefore, the more power you'll make.
Hit up the junkyard and get some exhaust piping off of things like pick up trucks and such. You just want the pipe to be a bit bigger than stock. Pick up trucks usually have the pieces that you need. You just want to piece together a straight pipe exhaust to go from the header out the rear of the car with a few bends as possible.
If you want to be nice about the whole volume thing, then try gutting out a stock muffler or something off of another car at the junkyard. Or really splurge and get something cheap from the parts store. If it has that annoying ricer honda sound to it, try wrapping the muffler and tip up with some heat wrap. Should help. Think about it like wrapping a towel around the bell of a trumpet. It really muffles the sound out because it keeps the bell from vibrating.
Use a screw driver and hammer and dent in the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator. That'll up your fuel pressure some. Doesn't need to be much. Just a little bump. Saves you from having to buy a walboro or something.
Get an old SAFC and borrow a buddy's wideband o2 sensor and even your tune out because at this point, you'll be running really rich.
get your hands on a MSD Blaster coil... they sell them at the parts stores. And do the relay mod so you're getting power straight from the battery/alternator instead of all through the harness. I'd say do the same thing for your fuel pump.

all that should put you right at the 200 hp mark and should make for a very rev happy engine.

there is more you can do, but it all costs more money.

 

well thank you that is very helpfull. i did see the forum about the emmisions but i didnt know how accurate it was... ill probly do that then. i did make a custom air intake for it i basically wanted to run throttle body, maf, then cone. also in exhaust i got my friends 3 inch and i was going to weld that up there. i basically was either just gunna put a good clutch in the car and run the hell outa it and have fun with it or move into a de swap and building it. or actually do both buy the de and slowly build it up, but all you said was awsome. finnaly later down the road would u recomend doing a turbo set up with that or just keep running a n/a?

 

Throw that single cam in the garbage unless you plan on rebuilding it and putting a turbo on it. I can't believe someone actually recommended putting sohc pistons in a dual cam. That's probably the most retarded thing I've read in a long time and definitely not cost effective by any means. Buy an SR or turbo a dual cam ka. This entire thread sounds like a giant pipe dream to me anyway.

 

it is accurate enough. in a nut shell, anything EGR related can be removed. You can ditch the charcoal catch can if you would like. For a beater engine, it isn't that big of a deal.

that intake will work. it'll make a cool sound and all of that, but it isn't the "best" place to suck air from. While there isn't any really "cooler" place to get air from, I personally wouldn't want the hot air coming off of my radiator to feel my intake.

I like the "do both" option cuz I'm not a big fan of down time.

I wouldn't try to turbo that pieced together build I was describing. I think a high compression + boost build would be awesome, but I wouldn't do it with as cheap as possible parts. I would tear it down and build for boost from the beginning, as that would be totally different than what I was talking about. trying to build to get some NA power and trying to build for boost is a fork in the road, you can't go both directions.

 

why throw it away? someone sold one on here for 300 bucks just a few weeks ago. SOHC engines aren't the 50 dollar piles of scrap they used to be.

Why not put sohc pistons in the dohc? not like it hasn't been done a million times before. And it is the cheapest way to up the compression. you could even get them new with most rebuild kits if you didn't want to try and source used ones.

As far as cost, how are you going to do an SR swap, or even boost a dual cam, or hell, even boost the sohc he's got, for under 1,000 bucks.

We weren't looking at building a bullet proof engine, or even a high powered one. Just something with a bit more nuts to get beat on when drifting. Even with the SR swap, if you get hooked up on an amazing deal and get it in the car for about a grand, its just going to end up blown up anyway. Who knows how many miles were on it before your buddy got it, plus the 20k plus miles of rageage your buddy put on it himself. I'd be a little more upset with blowing up an SR then I would be blowing up a junkyard build KA, especially considering you are looking at pretty much the same power to the wheels either way. give or take a handful.

 

Anthony Just Turbo the single slammer and lets call it a day