Aftermarket gauges suggestions?
still need to do that. The boost leak sensor thing...doesnt work
Oil pressure and temp..in the yeah right
only ones that work Water temp, boost, gas gauge (NOT prosport) and tach.
Oil pressure and temp..in the yeah right
only ones that work Water temp, boost, gas gauge (NOT prosport) and tach.
Garret boost gauge. I like it and it's magnified.
I also have a gizzmo msibc.
I also have a gizzmo msibc.
Cool, so you said it yourself, you've had even the holy grail gauges, everyones mecca bullshit, that didnt zero either, and things have tolerances.
Realistically, the bunch of bullshit around about somehow an autometer gauge not cutting it, is nothing but that, bullshit.
Oh a $200 greddy electronic gauge, beat out the $50 mechanical autometer ?
Gimme a break, realistically the .5psi, maybe 1 psi, isnt going to cause anything magical.
Realistically, the bunch of bullshit around about somehow an autometer gauge not cutting it, is nothing but that, bullshit.
Oh a $200 greddy electronic gauge, beat out the $50 mechanical autometer ?
Gimme a break, realistically the .5psi, maybe 1 psi, isnt going to cause anything magical.
Lab 101. Get thermometer. Put it in boiling water and ice water and take readings. Plot trend of how far off your thermometer is. Now you can start to use it.
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Something people are leaving out here is error detection/reliability.
One issue I had with the autometers was that if battery voltage dipped particularly low on cranking, he gauges would become non-responsive, and lock a particular reading. Additionally, if the sensor became disconnected or shorted, they'd show another (erroneous) reading.
The DEFI BF set doesnt care about input voltage, and if a sensor shorts or becomes disconnected, it flashes an error code to let you know something's wrong.
Not to mention the usefulness of the peak/hold/warn features.
Really, the way to go is standalone EMS with a in-dash molded in screen. Sensor readings outside a given window trip the CEL, and I can navigate multiple pages of tailor made gauge pages with steering wheel buttons. Works well, at least for me, that is
One issue I had with the autometers was that if battery voltage dipped particularly low on cranking, he gauges would become non-responsive, and lock a particular reading. Additionally, if the sensor became disconnected or shorted, they'd show another (erroneous) reading.
The DEFI BF set doesnt care about input voltage, and if a sensor shorts or becomes disconnected, it flashes an error code to let you know something's wrong.
Not to mention the usefulness of the peak/hold/warn features.
Really, the way to go is standalone EMS with a in-dash molded in screen. Sensor readings outside a given window trip the CEL, and I can navigate multiple pages of tailor made gauge pages with steering wheel buttons. Works well, at least for me, that is
ok , I got my cheap ass prosport gauges for around a 1.5 years and so far they are working perfect (knock on wood lol) also I have a autometer wide band for 2.5 years and to this day is still perfect . when i finished my swap the car was reading really rich at idle around 11.5 a/f I tought it was the wide band so i borrowed a motec wide band and it was reading almost the same with in .1 of difference .I let you know about accurency on the prosport when I install the aem stand alone to compare numbers
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My shit still slow
618 whp 492 ft/lbs at 22 psi (Low Boost)on pump gas ,
stock block ,more power coming soon ,stay tuned
Tuned by Alpha @ Induction Performance
My shit still slow618 whp 492 ft/lbs at 22 psi (Low Boost)on pump gas ,
stock block ,more power coming soon ,stay tuned

Tuned by Alpha @ Induction Performance






