id replace ALL bearings, oil pump and crank. might as well take the head off to check the pistons out, throw in new chain tensioners, VSS's, headgasket, a set of arps and some new rings.

 

VSS ?

vehicle speed sensor?
wtf ?

valve stem seals ? ive never heard anybody abbreviate that, lol. replacing those ? hahaha wasting money much?

arps = no

new rings ? if youre replacing pistons, youd need to hone

new chain tensioner(S) ? dude there's only one on an SR, wtf are you talking about lols there's two guides.

 

lol speed sensor in the head? umm

VSS? valve stem seals, yes. money wasted? no. they're cheap and 18 year old metal and rubber seals tend to be a pain so why not. are you saying its a bad idea?

arps = your personal opinion. feel free to suggest your preference.

rings, depending on the condition of the pistons, i was recommending replacing them while they're out (in the occasion that they are still worthy of use.) still, are you saying its a bad idea to replace them?

tensioner, my bad there. still, its only $70. probably unneeded, just an idea.

 

well if you pull the rings you have to do a hone. if you have to do a hone wtf, now you're going into the 'might as well' territory of new pistons.

if the motor has decent leakdown and compression, there's absolutely no reason whatsoever to do new rings.

ive had more problems with replaced valve guide seals leaking than old and busted valve guide seals not leaking. if there's one thing sr's are awesome at, it's not having those things smoke.

now, if you soaked your head in like, parts washer or simple green for 5 weeks, then i'd say yeah, replace them.

 

ill have to agree.

on the valve stem seals, im just used to KA's smoking due to them. personally I had no idea if SR's were prone to the same issue but from what you're saying they hold up well.

I've had a couple of SR's but i never really broke into them so pardon me if some of my comments regarding them are a little iffy.

 

no, don't get me wrong, you're dead right with KA's. you can practically pull the valve stem seals altogether on a KA and they will smoke less than with old seals installed

sr's are different.

 

that made me lol. so true.

 

Stupid question alert:

How similar is a GTi-R SR20DET to an S13 SR20DET? I know you can't use a GTi-R head or block in a RWD application, but can you use the internal parts?

I was thinking about getting a GTi-R motor, using the crank, rods, pistons, etc. to rebuild my current block, and you get the added bonus of an ITB manifold w/ top feed injectors (which needs work to be used on an S13, I know) and a decent T28. Also, doesn't the GTi-R use solid lifters? Can the head internals be swapped into an S13 SR20 head?

Suggestions? Errors in my logic?

 

yo dog

crank, rods, pistons, sure they will all work. 54c stuff. hell you can put sr20de stuff in there if you want.

itb manifold you'll have to like, cut and weld to flip. the angles are poopy also. good thing i can actually tig aluminum halfway decent these days.

yeah solid rifter will work also. rock em out

you sitll need to buy a rwd oil pump though

 

Cool. Got some similar opinions on zilvia.

GTi-R Internals in S13 SR20DET? - Zilvia.net Forums

54c pistons in both (but remember my pistons have those sweet little dimples on them from the retard putting the rocker guides in backwards). Rods are thicker and rod and main bearings are 19mm versus 17mm, but rod and main caps are the same size, so from what I've read, the crank fits in both blocks.

Some guys claim GTiR oil pump is highest flowing SR oil pump... Just needs to have an additional hole tapped on top to attach it to the head and "allegedly" it fits. With the GTiR crank sprocket. Which I'd obviously have if I ran the GTiR crank.

Mostly seems to be the australian guys doing wacky stuff with GTiR/s13 hybrid motors. So I've been reading a bit on their forums about how to rig shit.