S13 uncracked dash question
I have a theory about keeping your un-cracked dash from cracking up, instead of using that gay carpet dash cover, I've been thinking of using this protective material much like the plastic that comes over new appliances like refrigerators or dish washers, etc. I have some of that but in black. So I was wondering if that kind of material would work or just multipluly the heat or what. Or maybe some recommendations on what products you use to protect the dash, thanks in advanced.
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sounds like black plastic black takes heat in. and some people where black garbage bags to sweat more. so i dont think that would work. i just armorall it every other week whaen i wash the car and put a sunshade in while it sits for a few hours at work or somthing.
There are a million schools of thought about this. #1 on the list is not to use armorall because it has formadahyde and dries out the vinyl even more. I honestly think that now (15-20 years in) it's too late to have a big effect on the condition of a dash. The gauge bump, the low spots to the left and right, and the general down-and-to-the-left stretch are all places that the factory fitting makes the dash weak. If they've already gone to plastic, it's too late. Take it from a guy that's had 4-5 perfect dashes go through his hands. The best one I had sat in an unopened workshop for 8 years.
Having said all that, I had some off the shelf "nano" stuff that the dash seemed to suck up. Anything that will "soften" the dash is what you want. Some people say to do a thick coat of 10W30 or vaseline. I bet those would work (seriously!), but I'm not trying it.
Having said all that, I had some off the shelf "nano" stuff that the dash seemed to suck up. Anything that will "soften" the dash is what you want. Some people say to do a thick coat of 10W30 or vaseline. I bet those would work (seriously!), but I'm not trying it.
good old motor oil or a good tireshine is all i have ever used and it works flawlessy(sp) just gets dirty quick but it will saturate the plastic and soften it up
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if you havent been in a small plane its worst, cause your eyes and brain say we are moving and your body says oh no we are not. eyes and brain go asshole we are moving, cant you see? body says fuck you we are not moving at all. so they fight and fight and eventualy your body says, you know what fuck you brain, see if you can stop this!! then you throw up.

if you havent been in a small plane its worst, cause your eyes and brain say we are moving and your body says oh no we are not. eyes and brain go asshole we are moving, cant you see? body says fuck you we are not moving at all. so they fight and fight and eventualy your body says, you know what fuck you brain, see if you can stop this!! then you throw up.
After the research I did, most places stated that any products containing petroleum bases will harm vinyl, armor all included.
www.zymol.com
I've got their vinyl conditioners, just need a dash that is actually crack free now...
www.zymol.com
I've got their vinyl conditioners, just need a dash that is actually crack free now...
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R.I.P. Tim 
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
There are a million schools of thought about this. #1 on the list is not to use armorall because it has formadahyde and dries out the vinyl even more. I honestly think that now (15-20 years in) it's too late to have a big effect on the condition of a dash. The gauge bump, the low spots to the left and right, and the general down-and-to-the-left stretch are all places that the factory fitting makes the dash weak. If they've already gone to plastic, it's too late. Take it from a guy that's had 4-5 perfect dashes go through his hands. The best one I had sat in an unopened workshop for 8 years.
Having said all that, I had some off the shelf "nano" stuff that the dash seemed to suck up. Anything that will "soften" the dash is what you want. Some people say to do a thick coat of 10W30 or vaseline. I bet those would work (seriously!), but I'm not trying it.
Having said all that, I had some off the shelf "nano" stuff that the dash seemed to suck up. Anything that will "soften" the dash is what you want. Some people say to do a thick coat of 10W30 or vaseline. I bet those would work (seriously!), but I'm not trying it.
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You want to avoid anything with a high amount of petroleum distillates (these help to aid in a fast drying time). What you want is something that has a good sunscreen in it (the product I mentioned) or just straight baby oil.
I frequently switch between Vinyl-X and Lexol leather conditioner to keep the two crack-free dashes in good shape.
I frequently switch between Vinyl-X and Lexol leather conditioner to keep the two crack-free dashes in good shape.
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1973 VW Squareback
1979 AMC Jeep Cherokee Chief
RIP Tim


1973 VW Squareback
1979 AMC Jeep Cherokee Chief
RIP Tim
You want to avoid anything with a high amount of petroleum distillates (these help to aid in a fast drying time). What you want is something that has a good sunscreen in it (the product I mentioned) or just straight baby oil.
I frequently switch between Vinyl-X and Lexol leather conditioner to keep the two crack-free dashes in good shape.
I frequently switch between Vinyl-X and Lexol leather conditioner to keep the two crack-free dashes in good shape.
So, I'd probably go with Vinyl-x, I wouldn't want my car to smell like baby oil.....Oh, if you start putting stuff on the dash, and stop, won't the dash crack more?from what i hear it does.




