Do transmission need a break in period?
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I stand corrected. There are gear failures in these boxes. I doubt shock loads play a part. It still doesn't change the fact that, regardless of a "break in" period, the strength of that gear is not going to change over time. This is not a fine wine. We're not baking a cake here.
any left over sharp points that may not be worn away or worn down as the engine wears / transmission runs could eventually be stress risers leading to cracks.
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rest in peace tim.
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rest in peace tim.
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Sorry I got in late on this one, I was really sick yesterday. Anyway, here is my answer: yes and no. Here is why I say this:
On a freshly rebuilt automatic, what Epstien said about its internals is spot on. However, I would go easy on it for the first 200 or so miles just to make sure everything has been put back together correctly and all of the solenoids, clutches and seals are all doing what they should. Sometimes, as careful as anyone can be, things get overlooked which is why you have a period of time where you "feel things out" and do extensive testing before the customer ever sees the car/truck. It needs to be run with no load, then road tested, making sure that everything is kosher (does it still have lockup in the TC, how does it shift, etc...).
For a manual, go out and beat on it IF you're using the same clutch and flywheel as you did before the rebuild. If you've got a new clutch and flywheel, flollow the manufacturer's recommended break-in time before flogging it. If there is no time recommended, I'd give it 500 miles of easy/varied speed/load driving. People will argue with me here but I've had clutches last and last using this method.
Hope that helps. Just make sure everything is correct on both transmissions before you beat on it. It could mean the difference between pulling it for a clip or seal and catastrophic failure.
On a freshly rebuilt automatic, what Epstien said about its internals is spot on. However, I would go easy on it for the first 200 or so miles just to make sure everything has been put back together correctly and all of the solenoids, clutches and seals are all doing what they should. Sometimes, as careful as anyone can be, things get overlooked which is why you have a period of time where you "feel things out" and do extensive testing before the customer ever sees the car/truck. It needs to be run with no load, then road tested, making sure that everything is kosher (does it still have lockup in the TC, how does it shift, etc...).
For a manual, go out and beat on it IF you're using the same clutch and flywheel as you did before the rebuild. If you've got a new clutch and flywheel, flollow the manufacturer's recommended break-in time before flogging it. If there is no time recommended, I'd give it 500 miles of easy/varied speed/load driving. People will argue with me here but I've had clutches last and last using this method.
Hope that helps. Just make sure everything is correct on both transmissions before you beat on it. It could mean the difference between pulling it for a clip or seal and catastrophic failure.
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1973 VW Squareback
1979 AMC Jeep Cherokee Chief
RIP Tim
1973 VW Squareback
1979 AMC Jeep Cherokee Chief
RIP Tim
