Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

Let me know what you think!?

Thread Tools
 
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 02:27 AM
  #11 (permalink)  
turbofabworks's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by dan
the welding skills look good, but i would have gone with a more traditional 4-1 collector. the angles of cylinders 1 and 4 are coming in a little abrupt, but it should still make decent power.

i assume it will have a dump for an external wastegate as well.
I'm going to run the HKS 60mm. I was in the process of drilling out the hole for it as i took the picture.
How would you suggest running 1 and 4?
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 03:30 AM
  #12 (permalink)  
D-Roll's Avatar
Blasian Sensation
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,993
Likes: 0
Default

Great welds man...looks good!
__________________
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 03:46 AM
  #13 (permalink)  
Epstein's Avatar
Retired
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,095
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by turbofabworks
Only the runners are robotic welded, And i don't think they back purge ether on them so the weld does not penetrate 100%. I have repaired on Honda top mount one before.
They do back purge, at least since I've had their stuff. I've had 2 FR manifolds now. They started out with Honda stuff, so you might have worked on a pretty old piece.

Dan covered what I was thinking. 1 and 4 come in pretty steep. What people usually do is join 1-4 together like you did 2-3, then angle those pairs in together giving you a nice square 4-pack. Having said that, just run it. That'll give you a little better tool clearance under the turbo flange, if you weren't going to tap those holes. Speaking of which watch your tool/fastener clearance around the head. Turbo position is nice. You're also commited to running power steering and no AC with this manifold as #1 primary cuts through that space. Welds look great.

If guy on the street has $500 in just materials, why is it a giant mystery why manufactured tubular manifolds cost $1000+. Labor, supplies, QA, and research don't grow on trees!
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 06:06 AM
  #14 (permalink)  
JR's Avatar
JR
TR Balla Donor Supreme
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 900
Likes: 0
Default

Clean welds. What is the thickness of the metal? You keep the that finish. Looks professional.
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 06:10 AM
  #15 (permalink)  
xnissan240x's Avatar
Fishes more than you
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,023
Likes: 0
Default

looks like a love fab or something on that line of quality. great work
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 06:37 AM
  #16 (permalink)  
Penis's Avatar
byah
 
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 13,322
Likes: 0
Default

That manifold is all that is man
__________________
TF Iron Lung Crew member #001
Originally Posted by Banksy
Clear papers make Jesus cry.
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 08:19 AM
  #17 (permalink)  
vertigo's Avatar
U and your 3rd dimension
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 0
Default

top mount? ricer
__________________
Rear brake only for use when front brakes squeak whilst slowing for hot bitches
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #18 (permalink)  
Epstein's Avatar
Retired
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,095
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by vertigo
SR20? ricer
..
Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 11:05 AM
  #19 (permalink)  
B18C5-EG's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 0
Default

Eh...., that collector is bad. The welds on the collector are not consistant they seem to get large then small. Also your not susposed to run a continious weld on stainless it dosent look good and causes it to be brittle due to the heat. What amperage are you welding with? Also looks like you have some sugar inside your collector, not good. On runner #1 it also looks like you have a cavity on the 3rd weld from the flange (hard to tell from pics), where the pipe meets the flange it also looks like undercut. You realy should have cleaned the metal before welding it i.e wire wheel/laq, it would have came out alot nicer and easier to weld on. I see those welds cracking over time but only time will tell. I would realy like to see power numbers once this is finished however, interested to see how that collector effects your powerband.
__________________

Reply
Old Jul 28, 2008 | 06:03 PM
  #20 (permalink)  
turbofabworks's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by B18C5-EG
Eh...., that collector is bad. The welds on the collector are not consistant they seem to get large then small. Also your not susposed to run a continious weld on stainless it dosent look good and causes it to be brittle due to the heat. What amperage are you welding with? Also looks like you have some sugar inside your collector, not good. On runner #1 it also looks like you have a cavity on the 3rd weld from the flange (hard to tell from pics), where the pipe meets the flange it also looks like undercut. You realy should have cleaned the metal before welding it i.e wire wheel/laq, it would have came out alot nicer and easier to weld on. I see those welds cracking over time but only time will tell. I would realy like to see power numbers once this is finished however, interested to see how that collector effects your powerband.
The welds on the collector are all of the same thickness. must be the pic angle or how your looking at it. I'll take more pics of it so you can see it a bit better. The discoloration of the collector is because I was drilling the wastegate hole out with a regular hole saw and heated up the metal a bit. There is i little bit of sugar on the inside top of the collector because I didn't have my purge setup when I welded it up. the cavity is not a cavity it is a little bump of filler, I have only done on pass on it and have yet to bump it out "I think it looks pretty good for one pass" at 95amps. This is just a prototype manifold to see how much power it can make over a ramhorn , if any. I also have a ram horn type made up. I'll post pics and dyno charts soon
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:11 PM.