Anyone swapped a Lexus 1UZ V8
You read what I said wrong. What I was saying was that making the engine capable of hitting 10k would cost far more than making power from forced induction. I wasnt trying to say that forced induction would limit its capability to reach higher rpm's.
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woot +1! Then you go buy A cam and make over 400rwhp, or pay out the ass for 4 cams on this toyota turd!
Cowboy Bebop on SupraForums works for a company that is making CNC machined adapter plates to mate the UZ family motors with the Getrag V160/161 from the Supras
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Can't you put a 2uz head on this or something like that? I really don't know much about the UZ'z but I have been following this thread
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ok? for the extra ummm 2k you save on not getting an ls1 i think the lack of 50hp is hardly an issue. and yes i have worked on a push rod engine, I've had to install them and do a rocker ratio geometry on them, what makes push rods more simple? sorry but every time i get a new cam i don't feel like doing a rocker arm ratio check so my cam isn't useless. there can be push rods out the made of inconel they would still be gay. I'm sorry but fact is push rods are alot cheaper to manufacture then a dual over head cam design, cheaper..... not better. its going to take alot more money to get to 10,000 rpms in the ls1 then a 1uz. i like the ls1 but i love the 1uzfe 
And another point to prive is the LSX heads are the best flowing heads ever made from the factory. hell then even outflow typcail v8 race heads and cost 1/3 of what they do.
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LS is out of the question. I have nothing against it, other than I don't currently own a free one.
The S13 in the picture appears to be RHD based on the wiper motor position, but hes also lacking a visible brake booster and MC. No sign of a clutch MC either. It appears to still have the PS resevoir so I'm assuming the PS lines have been fabbed up even though the AC is blocked off. Looks like no heater either since the heater hoses are missing. I can't see if the steering shaft clears the manifolds or not, or if its also custom. Does anyone know whos car that is or any of the specs on it?
As for the basics ideas, I have an entire running SC400 to pull the motor, trans, harness, driveshaft, etc. out of. The MAFS is in pieces from the accident so it wants to stall unless you keep it running but aside from that I know it runs. Mounts will probably be my biggest issue aside from the wiring. I'd like to convert it to manual, but thats more money that I don't have, so for now, assuming the wiring isn't retarded, I'll stick with the auto.
The S13 in the picture appears to be RHD based on the wiper motor position, but hes also lacking a visible brake booster and MC. No sign of a clutch MC either. It appears to still have the PS resevoir so I'm assuming the PS lines have been fabbed up even though the AC is blocked off. Looks like no heater either since the heater hoses are missing. I can't see if the steering shaft clears the manifolds or not, or if its also custom. Does anyone know whos car that is or any of the specs on it?
As for the basics ideas, I have an entire running SC400 to pull the motor, trans, harness, driveshaft, etc. out of. The MAFS is in pieces from the accident so it wants to stall unless you keep it running but aside from that I know it runs. Mounts will probably be my biggest issue aside from the wiring. I'd like to convert it to manual, but thats more money that I don't have, so for now, assuming the wiring isn't retarded, I'll stick with the auto.
ask XAT they "do anything"
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Hello, I figure I might as well jump in on this conversation since I do have a 1UZ swapped into my s14. First of all, you will have to do something about the oil pan. The SC400 oil pan is a mid sump design which I believe will hit the cross member. You can either cut the cross member or pick up an oil pan and sump setup from a LS400. I love the engine in the s-chassis. With deleting a/c, it weighs almost exactly the same as the KA. This keeps your weight balance the same as the stock car. The LS1 is roughly the same weight also. I would recommend this swap to anyone. I have a grand total of $2000 in my entire swap. Yes, the LS1 will make more power. Why wouldn't it? It is almost 50% larger displacement, and N/A upgrades are definitely cheaper for the LS1. When you go turbo, it all starts to wash out. The turbo kit is going to cost the same on either setup because it will have to be built from scratch. The main thing you have to look at is what kind of drivability do you want? Unlike several people I know who have LS1's in 240's and RX-7's, I don't fear for my life when it rains. The powerband of the 1UZ is silky smooth with enough low end torque to turn the tires over if you want to, but it shifts the power up in the rpm range to pull consistently across the entire spectrum.
Final conclusion, if you are building a drag car or some other high torque application, buy the ls1. If you want a nice handling smooth street car, go with the 1UZ. If you have either one laying around for free, put it in no matter what! People can tell you to put an ls1 in your car, but last I checked, no one steps up to help you pay for the project. Your call.
Here are some pics of my project:
wattydchi/1UZFE Engine Bay - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
wattydchi/1UZFE Transmission Mating - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Watty
Final conclusion, if you are building a drag car or some other high torque application, buy the ls1. If you want a nice handling smooth street car, go with the 1UZ. If you have either one laying around for free, put it in no matter what! People can tell you to put an ls1 in your car, but last I checked, no one steps up to help you pay for the project. Your call.
Here are some pics of my project:
wattydchi/1UZFE Engine Bay - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
wattydchi/1UZFE Transmission Mating - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Watty


