Turbo Hardbody Ka24E
Thanks i know this motor will handle 250CHP and i bet the tranny will too when im done.
I almost bet there isnt a big diffrence between the DE and E if there is prove it.. with Real stuff not just EXP or word.
If The PT guys i used to run with can get 600WHP out of a 2.4l Stock block rods crank pistons valves... I can get 250chp out of this 2.4.
I almost bet there isnt a big diffrence between the DE and E if there is prove it.. with Real stuff not just EXP or word.
If The PT guys i used to run with can get 600WHP out of a 2.4l Stock block rods crank pistons valves... I can get 250chp out of this 2.4.
Martin is proof enough, good luck though.
supercharge the ka24de.....and semi style smoke stacks with the little flapper. itll be OG.

might have been better to start a new thread.
KA-t.org has pretty much all of the info you would need to know.
In my personal opinion, it would be much more simple to swap the truck intake manifold for the 240sx manifold since the throttle body is in the front on a 240. I'd stick with a really basic set up. a t28 will be more than enough. hell, a t25 would get you close to the power you want without too much issue. the major thing is going to be tuning. Yes, you can do the whole piggy back tune like they have talked about in this thread, but A) you won't get as much power out of it as a professional like Martin could doing a real tune and B) it won't be as reliable as it would be if Martin did a real tune. Not saying that it can't be done with a piggyback, it is just a lot safer to do a real tune, and considering the cost, there just isn't any reason to not get a real tune.
Having said that, if it was me, I would yank the single cam out, swap it for at least a dual cam after refreshing the engine and going that route. Single cams just have never turned me on.
It all depends on your goals, budget, etc.
EDIT: copied from ka-t.org. This is for the dohc, but the general idea is going to be the same. with the sohc, you're just going to have to be a bit more conservative, and expect a bit less power.
Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body
Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.
Fuel Control
SR 370cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.
Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body
Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.
Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.
Fuel Control
SR 370cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.
Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

might have been better to start a new thread.
KA-t.org has pretty much all of the info you would need to know.
In my personal opinion, it would be much more simple to swap the truck intake manifold for the 240sx manifold since the throttle body is in the front on a 240. I'd stick with a really basic set up. a t28 will be more than enough. hell, a t25 would get you close to the power you want without too much issue. the major thing is going to be tuning. Yes, you can do the whole piggy back tune like they have talked about in this thread, but A) you won't get as much power out of it as a professional like Martin could doing a real tune and B) it won't be as reliable as it would be if Martin did a real tune. Not saying that it can't be done with a piggyback, it is just a lot safer to do a real tune, and considering the cost, there just isn't any reason to not get a real tune.
Having said that, if it was me, I would yank the single cam out, swap it for at least a dual cam after refreshing the engine and going that route. Single cams just have never turned me on.
It all depends on your goals, budget, etc.
EDIT: copied from ka-t.org. This is for the dohc, but the general idea is going to be the same. with the sohc, you're just going to have to be a bit more conservative, and expect a bit less power.
How hard is the swap? SERIOUSLY? Is everone hating on the single cam?
There's nothing wrong with a single cam. Most of them are old as shit though and the KA that came in the fronteir pretty much sucks dick. Do yourself a favor and swap in a ka from an S chassis and turbo that. I see no reason why it can't make a reliable 300whp with a rebuild.



