Datsun Dreaming
i know matt says 4.5 because it doesnt really hurt to run an extra quart, and less chance of it missing the pickup in hard turns.
4 isnt going to hurt anything neither will 4.5
i run 4 because im cheap and whatevs
4 isnt going to hurt anything neither will 4.5
i run 4 because im cheap and whatevs
Supposedly RP has the most particles of that one chemical in it out of all the off the shelf Synthetics, like 2000 particles per w/e. I can locate the source of where i found this out if needed.
Well, I was posting this in the other thread but felt that this info would be best suited in a new thread for everyone to see. This is not a thread to compare what oil you have ran in your minivan, pick up truck, or DD grocery getter.
Alright here is my 2 cents on the subject, take it for what its worth but I bet you'll want to read this
This is a performance car site so I assume we are talking about performance engines. What I am about to post is based on performance and race engines because racing is what we do!
When it comes to a performance/race engine.......the absolute best thing you can have in your oil is a high level of zincdithiophosphate. It is the best wear additive you can get in an oil for protection. It is the thing most needed in an oil when racing...... plain and simple. It protects your bearings, camshaft, lifters, etc.. I am sure that we all want such a thing!!
Now, onto the issue with all these off the shelf consumer oils such as Mobil 1. They have always had a great reputation with a lot of users having wonderful results.
However, these oils are no longer the same as they once were!!!!!
Due to emissions etc... the EPA has forced the oil companies to start decreasing the amount of zincdithiophosphate that they put in their oils. This is due to the fact that a large amount of zincdithiophosphate will shorten the life of a catalytic converter. This is a problem for us racers as this is what we need most in a good performance oil.
The EPA now limits production gasoline oils to 800 parts per million of zincdithiophosphate and 1200 ppm for production diesel oils.
There are options out there though!
First of all, you can take your oil of choice which has had the level of zincdithiophosphate decreased such as mobil 1, and there is a solution. Comp cams has an additive that you can buy that adds a high level of zinc to your oil of choice. This is one option to achieve your extra protection.
The other choices are the oils that still have high levels of zincdithiophosphate.......here are a few of them...
Castrol tection extra
Chevron dello 400
Mobil delvac 1300
Shell Rotella(1200 parts per million)
Valvoline VR1(1200 parts per million)
Quaker State Q racing(1900 parts per million)
Royal Purple(2000+ parts per million)
and finally what is considered the best by majority of the industry pro stockers and nascar teams especially....
Joe Gibbs Racing Oil(2000+ ppm)
One other oil I didnt mention is Amsoil. I personally have no experience but I have heard great things. I dont have any info on this particular oil as far as PPM or anything else so I chose not to put it in the list.
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Alright here is my 2 cents on the subject, take it for what its worth but I bet you'll want to read this
This is a performance car site so I assume we are talking about performance engines. What I am about to post is based on performance and race engines because racing is what we do!
When it comes to a performance/race engine.......the absolute best thing you can have in your oil is a high level of zincdithiophosphate. It is the best wear additive you can get in an oil for protection. It is the thing most needed in an oil when racing...... plain and simple. It protects your bearings, camshaft, lifters, etc.. I am sure that we all want such a thing!!
Now, onto the issue with all these off the shelf consumer oils such as Mobil 1. They have always had a great reputation with a lot of users having wonderful results.
However, these oils are no longer the same as they once were!!!!!
Due to emissions etc... the EPA has forced the oil companies to start decreasing the amount of zincdithiophosphate that they put in their oils. This is due to the fact that a large amount of zincdithiophosphate will shorten the life of a catalytic converter. This is a problem for us racers as this is what we need most in a good performance oil.
The EPA now limits production gasoline oils to 800 parts per million of zincdithiophosphate and 1200 ppm for production diesel oils.
There are options out there though!
First of all, you can take your oil of choice which has had the level of zincdithiophosphate decreased such as mobil 1, and there is a solution. Comp cams has an additive that you can buy that adds a high level of zinc to your oil of choice. This is one option to achieve your extra protection.
The other choices are the oils that still have high levels of zincdithiophosphate.......here are a few of them...
Castrol tection extra
Chevron dello 400
Mobil delvac 1300
Shell Rotella(1200 parts per million)
Valvoline VR1(1200 parts per million)
Quaker State Q racing(1900 parts per million)
Royal Purple(2000+ parts per million)
and finally what is considered the best by majority of the industry pro stockers and nascar teams especially....
Joe Gibbs Racing Oil(2000+ ppm)
One other oil I didnt mention is Amsoil. I personally have no experience but I have heard great things. I dont have any info on this particular oil as far as PPM or anything else so I chose not to put it in the list.
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wow look at me, im so smart i can copy and paste shit, dont worry about that, i know im stupid, just read the damn thing and dont whine.
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Srqspeed.com

-Dane
98 240 w/ bolt-onsSrqspeed.com

another part to add
Also, I know some people debate on oil weights whether to run a straight weight or a multi-weight as well as the debate on conventional vs synthetic.
I dont know a lot on the subject but here is what I do know and I'm sure many of you know this as well.
99% of engines of course will benefit from a multi-weight oil. This is simply because we need a a thin oil to start the engine when cold but for protection we need something slightly thicker once warmed up. This is unless of course you're running a pure race engine such as an NHRA Pro Stocker running 0 weight.
The fact is, in a multi-weight oil there are many more polymers. As the engine and oil temperature warms these polymers begin to unwind which then causes them to take up more room while not allowing the oil to get thinner.
As for synthetic vs conventional.
When it comes to a performance aspect the synthetic will be a better insurance policy. It gives a greater load area causing the molecules to be harder the break apart. This also helps to cause less friction.
Also, if you dont want to run 100% synthetic it has been said by many in the racing world that.... SUPPOSEDLY 1 quart of synthetic into 5 quarts of conventional is 80% as good as running a full synthetic. That is just what is said
I understand many of you already knew all of this but in case theres a few people who dont, hopefully we can help get them going in the correct direction
I dont know a lot on the subject but here is what I do know and I'm sure many of you know this as well.
99% of engines of course will benefit from a multi-weight oil. This is simply because we need a a thin oil to start the engine when cold but for protection we need something slightly thicker once warmed up. This is unless of course you're running a pure race engine such as an NHRA Pro Stocker running 0 weight.
The fact is, in a multi-weight oil there are many more polymers. As the engine and oil temperature warms these polymers begin to unwind which then causes them to take up more room while not allowing the oil to get thinner.
As for synthetic vs conventional.
When it comes to a performance aspect the synthetic will be a better insurance policy. It gives a greater load area causing the molecules to be harder the break apart. This also helps to cause less friction.
Also, if you dont want to run 100% synthetic it has been said by many in the racing world that.... SUPPOSEDLY 1 quart of synthetic into 5 quarts of conventional is 80% as good as running a full synthetic. That is just what is said
I understand many of you already knew all of this but in case theres a few people who dont, hopefully we can help get them going in the correct direction
__________________
Srqspeed.com

-Dane
98 240 w/ bolt-onsSrqspeed.com

I changed my oil tonight after work at a friends place. I used like 4.4qts, it drives just fine and feels really good. I will check the level tomorrow right before I leave for work just to make sure. I also used a m1-103 mobile(i like to spell it with an e to piss everyone off) oil filter to match the mobile 10w30 I used. Thanks for all the info everyone and here is a pic of my old oil


