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More work on the SR rebuild

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 06:04 AM
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turn you heater on full blast
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by steve
turn you heater on full blast
That is exactly what I am doing right after I eat dinner!

I bought a water temp gauge from Advance just to use until I can order my Blitz BLM water temp gauge. This way I am at least going to have a better idea of what my water temp is.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by steve
turn you heater on full blast
Arg! I was going to recommend that!

Sounds like everything is going great so far! I'll be posting my engine build soon that looks a lot like this one.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Arg! I was going to recommend that!

Sounds like everything is going great so far! I'll be posting my engine build soon that looks a lot like this one.
Cool, look forward to seeing it..

Well here is an update.........
I did have air in the system so we got that all out. We could tell the system was flowing and the T-STAT opened up. The heat blew nice and warm fast too.
The thing is the car's temp gauge still went up. I changed the temp sensor a long time ago to the "correct" one or so I thought. Without a true way of know what the temp is we just kept shutting the car off when it got to the line below H. I reinstalled the hood and kept the little fan that could running. I should have the FALs on by Wednesday so we will see if that helps.
Tonight we are going to try to meter the block's temp with a temp gun (it will give us a better idea rather than touching the block).
I did buy a water temp gauge but it is a mechanical and I can't really find a place to install the probe, any suggestions?
The car is running good though. I drove it from my house to my front gate and it did fine (with the exception of the temp gauge rising).
I will beat this so I will keep trying
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:04 AM
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Cool heating issue

i know that without a good set of fans the temp will climb rather quickly after warm up. sounds like everything else is ok. just gotta get those fans and see if that cures it. i have my probe under the top hose where it connects to the rad and thru the radiator fins.

Last edited by robsr20det; Jan 9, 2007 at 04:06 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by robsr20det
i know that without a good set of fans the temp will climb rather quickly after warm up. sounds like everything else is ok. just gotta get those fans and see if that cures it. i have my probe under the top hose where it connects to the rad and thru the radiator fins.
Thanks, I should have them by tomorrow I hope so we will see.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 07:14 AM
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Which temp sensor did you change out? The 1-wire guy is the one that runs the cluster. The colored 2-wire runs the ECU. If you have an external temp gauge, you can try to mount the sensor in place of the factory 1-wire. I'm not sure how big this thing is, though. The other popular location is the coolant neck on the outlet side. The material is thick enough to drill and tap. Don't forget that you can read the ECU's temp sensor with a consult interface!
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Which temp sensor did you change out? The 1-wire guy is the one that runs the cluster. The colored 2-wire runs the ECU. If you have an external temp gauge, you can try to mount the sensor in place of the factory 1-wire. I'm not sure how big this thing is, though. The other popular location is the coolant neck on the outlet side. The material is thick enough to drill and tap. Don't forget that you can read the ECU's temp sensor with a consult interface!
I changed out the 1 wire to what I was told was from an SR S14, my motor is an S13.

The water neck is a good suggestion because it will not fit where the factory sensor is.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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Cool heating issue

if it's a probe you should not have to drill. if it's a sensor of the same type and size as original then i can see some mod like drilling a tap in that neck for it. i just have a probe and it is installed by pushing it thru the rad core ridght under the top rad hose. just thought i'd let u know.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by robsr20det
if it's a probe you should not have to drill. if it's a sensor of the same type and size as original then i can see some mod like drilling a tap in that neck for it. i just have a probe and it is installed by pushing it thru the rad core ridght under the top rad hose. just thought i'd let u know.
Thanks I will take a look at the gauge again when I get home to see exactly what it has with it.
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