im now running 265's on a 18x9.5 saw a porsche with the same setup today they look pretty burly also a +35 offset, hoping coilovers will fit

 

Depends on the appearance of the wheels.
I don't mind the factory SE twisted 5 spokes, which are 16's

I like 16" wheels. Tires are cheaper, thus high performance tires are more affordable.
16" > 17" > anything more than 18"

 

actually sandy 16" is the lose in some cases. certain tires are not made in 16" that people can buy in 17"

as far as dr's go 16's are fine but auto-x or premium handling tires such as pilot sport cup and pilot sport ps2 or bfg kdw new tread (hawtness) are not made in 16" they start at 17"

 

sorry, but:

225/50/16 to a 16x8 +32 wheel

Is that stretched or no strecth?

 

225 on a 8" wheel will be about even 205 would be stretched

Why are you trying to get the "stretched" look. I don't see any purpose in putting less tire on the ground.

not pointing you out but rather a trend that hasn't made sense to me.

 

not realy much of a stretch at all. epstein runs r32 gtr wheels with 225s i think.


18s on an s chassis without aero is the lose, 17s win on stock body s14, 16s win on stock body s13 (hell even 15s look good, i.e. aussie steves or those with nice meshies).

i run 9" +15 up front with 225/45 and 10" +12 in back with 245/45. ideally, i want to run 235/40 all around, the 225/45 is okay, the 245 is stretched a tad, but looks too tall. i have flattened fender lips, planning on a pull in the rear but only a tad. my coilovers in the back are bottomed out for now, unless i droop the spring (which isnt good).

stock RUCAs for the lose too, im cheating with stock right now, or else i wouldnt be able to run 'non tire eating camber specs' w/o pulling the fender.

for reference, tim runs 9.5" wide +12mm all the way around on his s13 with 215/45-17 i think (maybe 40 series) on stock s13 body, rolled lips obviously. business card fitment. i also have a buddy in new england who autocrosses and runs a 275/315 setup on his S14, susp is crazy and fenders are pulled i believe (full grip setup).

my next wheel set will be what the new bandwagon is becoming, 17"/18" stagger, probably 17x9 or 9.5 and 18x10 or 10.5 at least, 235/40 up front, 245/40 out back, offsets around zer0 front/somewhere around 0 to -6 out back, with minimal pull.

 

NO, thats the thing, i dont want a stretched tire, haha.

 

stretching tire works for certain tires (not shitty ones). it actually puts the whole contact patch on the ground (assuming you have correct alignment settings), and it usually stiffens the sidewall. it's used in grip type setups, and in drift setups, as it gives a very smooth and linear breakaway in the rear, as there is less tire bulge and sidewall flex to allow the tire to maintain grip. up front it's not as necessary to stretch, but i havnt read up enough to know the front benefits.

alot of it is aesthetically pleasing, fitting a wide rim with a really low or negative offset under a fender with a stretched tire, cambered in to make it "flush". but if it's just for looks and the alignment sucks, then its no good, function > form.

and stock 240sx rear camber is somewhere around -1.5 degrees if i remember right due to the stock rear arms, and "sporty" feeling the designers went for (eccentric bolts are designed to adjust it close, but suck balls). running negative camber obviously causes the point where the load on the tire is to shift inwards (going negatively in camber terms), causing premature wear. most people slam their cars (myself included for now), and stuff expensive tires in the back, then bitch when they wear them out fast on the insides (and most unidirectional tires have to be unmounted, flipped, and remounted if u want to rotate them, unless u keep them on the same side up front which will offers no benefits, and most people stagger different sizes making it goofy looking to do the front to rear tire rotation). ruca's alone will cure the camber but if u want to run negative rear camber, it throws your toe spec out of alignment. getting toe back to zer0 or close is the way to run negative camber in the rear and still have good tire wear (it also depends on the driving style/compound of the tire/pressures used).

 

Well, as of right now, my car isnt dropped. Its all stock susp. components And on top of that the tires are just some "get me by" tires. I plan on getting a spring/strut setup (OH NO!) anyways so I dont plan on running crazy camber and fit some wheels under there. I just dont want to run into a problem in the future with fender rubbing or whatnot.

 

with a mild spring/strut combo, you wont have to worry about bad camber problems unless you go more than 2" lower. and even eibach prokit rated at like 1.5" looks good enough if u have the right wheel and tire combo. id still get it aligned after you pick up all the stuff ur going to swap out (do check bushings and the arms for wear and bends, u might wanna look into doing tie rods/bushings at the same time so u only have to align it once).