Ka overheating!!
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Tha numba one stunna
Joined: Feb 2003
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Ka overheating!!
ok car is a 90 s13 with an s14 twincam
parts that have been replaced:
new mech temp gauge
new headgasket
new fal fan
new water pump
new resivour
new radiator cap
ok so today I bled the system with the engine at operating temp tightened the bleeder screw back down and put the radiator cap back on. drove the car around my nieborhood for about 20 mins came back parked it and let it idle for about 30 mins while I installed a new cd player...the entire drive and for the 30 mins it was idling it stayed at 190 or below. So Im thinking great it just needed to be bled. I start it up about an hour later while Im tuning the speakers and cd player i just put in and it stays right at 190 the whole time. now I just went for a drive I get two blocks from my house and it shoots up to 230 and is climbing towards 260 so I get it back to the house and its at 230 and sitting there. now the temp gauge on the cluster is about halfway so I don't know if 230 is a dangerous temp to drive around on but it seems high to me. Its not leaking any coolant and its not low the resivour has coolant in it. The car has been doing this since I got it anyone have any idea what it could be?
parts that have been replaced:
new mech temp gauge
new headgasket
new fal fan
new water pump
new resivour
new radiator cap
ok so today I bled the system with the engine at operating temp tightened the bleeder screw back down and put the radiator cap back on. drove the car around my nieborhood for about 20 mins came back parked it and let it idle for about 30 mins while I installed a new cd player...the entire drive and for the 30 mins it was idling it stayed at 190 or below. So Im thinking great it just needed to be bled. I start it up about an hour later while Im tuning the speakers and cd player i just put in and it stays right at 190 the whole time. now I just went for a drive I get two blocks from my house and it shoots up to 230 and is climbing towards 260 so I get it back to the house and its at 230 and sitting there. now the temp gauge on the cluster is about halfway so I don't know if 230 is a dangerous temp to drive around on but it seems high to me. Its not leaking any coolant and its not low the resivour has coolant in it. The car has been doing this since I got it anyone have any idea what it could be?
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240LSX
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check the belt on the water pump to see if its turning the pump when your reving and see if its slipping. open the cap on the radiator and see if its flowing strong once the thermostat opens up.
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Driven Concepts, Tampa FL
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Do you have a mechanical fan or the stock eletric fan?
If you have the stock mechanical clutch fan, a lot of people overlook the fact that the fan clutch can actually go bad and at time cause the car to overheat.
When you bled the system, how long did you let it run while the bleeder screw was backed out? KAs are a bitch to bleed and could take 20~30 minutes.
If you have the stock mechanical clutch fan, a lot of people overlook the fact that the fan clutch can actually go bad and at time cause the car to overheat.
When you bled the system, how long did you let it run while the bleeder screw was backed out? KAs are a bitch to bleed and could take 20~30 minutes.
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https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/d...ml#post4905630
Driven Concepts, LLC
1101A East Hillsborough Ave.
Tampa, Florida 33604
813-236-4500
Monday - Friday 9am - 6pm
WE ARE DIRECT
Tein, GReddy, Buddy Club, Bride, Tanabe, K-Sport, Power Enterprise, etc......
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/d...ml#post4905630
Thread Starter
Tha numba one stunna
Joined: Feb 2003
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Originally Posted by DriftingDJ
check the belt on the water pump to see if its turning the pump when your reving and see if its slipping. open the cap on the radiator and see if its flowing strong once the thermostat opens up.
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Thread Starter
Tha numba one stunna
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Originally Posted by SpottedMango
Do you have a mechanical fan or the stock eletric fan?
If you have the stock mechanical clutch fan, a lot of people overlook the fact that the fan clutch can actually go bad and at time cause the car to overheat.
When you bled the system, how long did you let it run while the bleeder screw was backed out? KAs are a bitch to bleed and could take 20~30 minutes.
If you have the stock mechanical clutch fan, a lot of people overlook the fact that the fan clutch can actually go bad and at time cause the car to overheat.
When you bled the system, how long did you let it run while the bleeder screw was backed out? KAs are a bitch to bleed and could take 20~30 minutes.
maybe I'll bleed it somemore.
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Wombat S14
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ahhh....kas are owned by all......is your water pump good? ow about a blown head gasket?? There is too much shit that can cause a cra to over heat anymore.....good luck.
Retired
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When you say "new mech temp gauge", do you mean in the cluster, or an external (eg. Autometer) gauge? If it's external, where do you have the probe? Make sure to run the heater on full blast when you're bleeding the coolant. Make sure that there is no blockage in front of the radiator. Make sure your FAL is sucking/blowing the right direction?
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Tha numba one stunna
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Originally Posted by Epstein
When you say "new mech temp gauge", do you mean in the cluster, or an external (eg. Autometer) gauge? If it's external, where do you have the probe? Make sure to run the heater on full blast when you're bleeding the coolant. Make sure that there is no blockage in front of the radiator. Make sure your FAL is sucking/blowing the right direction?
the prabe is in the upper hose via a copper pipe adapter
checked for blockage in front of the radiator
the fan is set up as a puller and its moving tons of air
buuuuuut. I did'nt have the heat on full blast when I bled it! so that might be it. Im going to bleed it out really good tomarrow. I was thinking of maybe driving it around my block with the bleeder screw out. does that sound retarded? I had this problem with my last ka and it took me like 2 weeks to get it fully bled out. also I think I'll do a flush as the water is murky and brown.
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now with more protein
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Originally Posted by SpottedMango
When you bled the system, how long did you let it run while the bleeder screw was backed out? KAs are a bitch to bleed and could take 20~30 minutes.
Quote from NICO----
Originally Posted by nismo521
Yep, sounds like you've still got an air bubble on the thermostat. Throw a funnel and some AF mix in your car and drive it 'til it gets hot. Then put the heater on full (sucks in the summer), shut 'er down, pull over, and crack the bleed screw open. You will be surprised how much air escapes. Once all the air is out, take the screw completely out (may want some gloves, that little joker is HOT) open the rad. cap, and crank the car back up. Pour some more AF mix into the radiator until it starts coming out of the bleed hole, then look in the bleed hole for bubbles. If you've got 'em, pour more AF in there and massage the top hose again. Keep pouring and massaging until you don't see any bubbles coming out of the bleed hole, then replace the rad. cap and bleed screw IN THAT ORDER. Hop back in and drive and see if it gets hot again. If it does, you've still got air, pull over and do it again. It helps to lug the engine going up a hill while doing this, as long as it's cool before you hit the hill. Good luck man, the KA's cooling system is a biatch.
Last edited by mikeyees13; Nov 18, 2005 at 06:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Tha numba one stunna
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yeah from what Ive been reading Im 90% sure its got a bubble. I had never heard of running the heat but it makes since I feel stupid for not thinking of that! I'll give a good long bleeding sesion in the morning before work tomarrow and post my results thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys. **crosses fingers** I hope its something this stupid!
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