no power to fuel pump help
boostmonkey
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 14,791
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Craig's directions for a ghetto test light:
1. Get a random bulb that still is attached to socket/wiring.
2. Take black wire on said assembly, ground it to something.
3. Take red wire and put to positive to whatever you want to test.
If the bulb lights up, you have some semblance of voltage. It works in a pinch and is easy to do. Test the wires like that and trace your issue. It sounds to me like you might have either a bad ground or an inconsistant power source. There isn't any real need to rewire the stocker when you're 2mm away from figuring out what the issue is with the new wiring. Just go backwards, trace your connections, trace your grounds and check your work. If all else fails and your shit is solid, get a new relay.
1. Get a random bulb that still is attached to socket/wiring.
2. Take black wire on said assembly, ground it to something.
3. Take red wire and put to positive to whatever you want to test.
If the bulb lights up, you have some semblance of voltage. It works in a pinch and is easy to do. Test the wires like that and trace your issue. It sounds to me like you might have either a bad ground or an inconsistant power source. There isn't any real need to rewire the stocker when you're 2mm away from figuring out what the issue is with the new wiring. Just go backwards, trace your connections, trace your grounds and check your work. If all else fails and your shit is solid, get a new relay.
weezin the juice
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 0
what kind of fuel pump are you running? Is it pumping, and just not getting fuel or is it just dead. period? There has to be a bad connection somewhere, blown fuse or something electrical, it cant jsut like not work...
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Sideways Maffia
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,727
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by craig_302
Craig's directions for a ghetto test light:
1. Get a random bulb that still is attached to socket/wiring.
2. Take black wire on said assembly, ground it to something.
3. Take red wire and put to positive to whatever you want to test.
If the bulb lights up, you have some semblance of voltage. It works in a pinch and is easy to do. Test the wires like that and trace your issue. It sounds to me like you might have either a bad ground or an inconsistant power source. There isn't any real need to rewire the stocker when you're 2mm away from figuring out what the issue is with the new wiring. Just go backwards, trace your connections, trace your grounds and check your work. If all else fails and your shit is solid, get a new relay.
1. Get a random bulb that still is attached to socket/wiring.
2. Take black wire on said assembly, ground it to something.
3. Take red wire and put to positive to whatever you want to test.
If the bulb lights up, you have some semblance of voltage. It works in a pinch and is easy to do. Test the wires like that and trace your issue. It sounds to me like you might have either a bad ground or an inconsistant power source. There isn't any real need to rewire the stocker when you're 2mm away from figuring out what the issue is with the new wiring. Just go backwards, trace your connections, trace your grounds and check your work. If all else fails and your shit is solid, get a new relay.
Or you could get a digital multimeter from harbor freight for like $5.99
You have to test it before you go back and rewire the whole thing. Dont lose your temper on it either, its not trying to trick you or anything, you just think it is. Wire the fuel pump to a ground and just straight 12v for a second or 2 just to see if it will pump fuel. you have to find whats wrong before you go to a conclusion.
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NOBAMA!
NOBAMA!
Retired
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,095
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Steve, 10Ga wire should be fine.
What did you use for power for the e-fans? Did you use the engine harness (F9-F10 "battery area wires")? If you did, you might check there first, since that's the fuel pump power. Check the fuel pump relay, too. The FSM might have a section on this as well
Just so people know, some e-fans aren't all they're cracked up to be. A fan driven by the motor moves about 2500cfm, from what I remember. That's comparable to a dual FAL setup, which also makes your car shake when they're on. That's also a lot more than less expensive single fans. A Taurus fan does more cfm, but draws a lot of power which adds parasitic loss through the alternator. So, the pros of stock far are tons of cfm, stock shroud is ideal ducting, stock setup is very simple. Anyone ever watch Option videos? EVERYONE has a stock fan/shroud.
What did you use for power for the e-fans? Did you use the engine harness (F9-F10 "battery area wires")? If you did, you might check there first, since that's the fuel pump power. Check the fuel pump relay, too. The FSM might have a section on this as well
Just so people know, some e-fans aren't all they're cracked up to be. A fan driven by the motor moves about 2500cfm, from what I remember. That's comparable to a dual FAL setup, which also makes your car shake when they're on. That's also a lot more than less expensive single fans. A Taurus fan does more cfm, but draws a lot of power which adds parasitic loss through the alternator. So, the pros of stock far are tons of cfm, stock shroud is ideal ducting, stock setup is very simple. Anyone ever watch Option videos? EVERYONE has a stock fan/shroud.
