hardwire fuel pump - how to
Ni-Ten-Ichi-Ryu
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,394
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A good thurough write-up would do nicely as a sticky in the Nissan / Infinity tech forum... Looking forward to it.
Would be nice to have people do step by step write ups including parts list, fab list, local vendor spots... Of course, this would be way past the norm =)
Just thinking out loud... Yes it hurts.
Would be nice to have people do step by step write ups including parts list, fab list, local vendor spots... Of course, this would be way past the norm =)
Just thinking out loud... Yes it hurts.
__________________
Buying/Selling on TR is like shaving your ass before going to prison. You know your gonna get fucked, you just try and make it as pleasant as possible.
Buying/Selling on TR is like shaving your ass before going to prison. You know your gonna get fucked, you just try and make it as pleasant as possible.
boostmonkey
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 14,791
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Here is what I did.
First, I found a foglight wiring kit that comes with all relays and whatnot. The particular one I purchased was from Discount and made by APC (barf but it works). The kit comes with a bunch of wire, fuse block and most importantly a relay that can handle some decent amperage.
After tossing away most of the seperated to foglight wires, I simply wired up the fuel pump like it was a single foglight. Since my battery was in the back of the car, it was easy to bolt the 12 volt constant wire right to the positive terminal. If your battery is not in the back, you're in for running some wire. No biggie. The reason I went right to the battery for 12 volt consant is that the fuel pump will now be pulling the most un-interrupted power that it can get.
For the 12 volt switched part of the relay, I ran wires up towards the fusebox of the car. Then it was only a matter of a little test light action while fiddling with the key to find a switched 12 volt accessory to jump off of. I found an empty/unused fuse block and stuck a male spade connector on the 12 volt switched wire and plugged it right into the fuse box slot. Now, I went on the ultra cautious side and added a fuse to the switched 12 volt wire just in case...you never know.
Now comes the fun part of wiring up the fuel pump itself. It will have two leads, a power and a ground. If you've recently installed a fuel pump in your 240, you will already know this. Follow the leads from the pump up through the grommet and to the connector (the one that resides under that plate with the arrow on it. Unplug the connector and cut the 2 pump wires. The ground wire you will want to ground to the chassis and the positive wire will go back to the relay.
After all is connected and good solid grounds are established, turn the key to the switched on posision and you should hear the fuel pump whirring.
I HIGHLY reccomend having the battery disconnected if you have the fuel pump at all unbolted from the tank. Please don't blow yourself up with gas vapors.
Hope that helped, steve.
First, I found a foglight wiring kit that comes with all relays and whatnot. The particular one I purchased was from Discount and made by APC (barf but it works). The kit comes with a bunch of wire, fuse block and most importantly a relay that can handle some decent amperage.
After tossing away most of the seperated to foglight wires, I simply wired up the fuel pump like it was a single foglight. Since my battery was in the back of the car, it was easy to bolt the 12 volt constant wire right to the positive terminal. If your battery is not in the back, you're in for running some wire. No biggie. The reason I went right to the battery for 12 volt consant is that the fuel pump will now be pulling the most un-interrupted power that it can get.
For the 12 volt switched part of the relay, I ran wires up towards the fusebox of the car. Then it was only a matter of a little test light action while fiddling with the key to find a switched 12 volt accessory to jump off of. I found an empty/unused fuse block and stuck a male spade connector on the 12 volt switched wire and plugged it right into the fuse box slot. Now, I went on the ultra cautious side and added a fuse to the switched 12 volt wire just in case...you never know.
Now comes the fun part of wiring up the fuel pump itself. It will have two leads, a power and a ground. If you've recently installed a fuel pump in your 240, you will already know this. Follow the leads from the pump up through the grommet and to the connector (the one that resides under that plate with the arrow on it. Unplug the connector and cut the 2 pump wires. The ground wire you will want to ground to the chassis and the positive wire will go back to the relay.
After all is connected and good solid grounds are established, turn the key to the switched on posision and you should hear the fuel pump whirring.
I HIGHLY reccomend having the battery disconnected if you have the fuel pump at all unbolted from the tank. Please don't blow yourself up with gas vapors.
Hope that helped, steve.
Get the fuck off my lawn
Joined: Oct 1983
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 809
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cut white/purple and blue/red on tank side of connector. send blue/red to ground. connect white/purple coming from connector to turn on the relay. attach other end of relay to ground at same spot you ground blue/red. run 12ga. cable with an inline 30A fuse from battery to the relay, and then connect the opposite end (that connects when the relay turns on) to white/purple at the tank.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 809
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oh yeah dont' worry about the blue/red you cut at the connector side, you don't need to connect it to anything.
if you want to do it cheap and reliable, www.partsexpress.com get a bosch 30A 12V relay, the bosch harness, and a pioneer (if they still carry this) 12ga. cable with built in 30A fuse, should come to $6-7 total.
if you want to do it cheap and reliable, www.partsexpress.com get a bosch 30A 12V relay, the bosch harness, and a pioneer (if they still carry this) 12ga. cable with built in 30A fuse, should come to $6-7 total.
Retired
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,095
Likes: 0
Cyanide has the described the method that I would advise. Technically, this means that your fuel pump is turned on by 2 relays sequentially, but who cares. 12ga wire is good, and a 30A relay is, too. The "blue/red you cut at the connector side" that Cyanide refers to should be terminated/covered correctly. This more than likely is a 12V source (like most blue/reds in the car), so you don't want it shorting to ground.
My method would be to simply trace out the factory wires through the body harness and replace them with beefy 12ga. Hey, I've already modified the chassis harness once already....
My method would be to simply trace out the factory wires through the body harness and replace them with beefy 12ga. Hey, I've already modified the chassis harness once already....
