what type/brand of oil?
lifelong learner
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,840
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Originally posted by solo_mata_me
Do some research, it is a Fram rebrand if memory serves according to a bunch of online tests. If it is not a Fram rebrand, it is a Fram clone with similer Fram internals. For my engine it is K&N or Purilator ONLY. When you see a failed Fram or Fram clone on your engine, it is scary shit indeed...especially when you take the time and money to build that motor yourself by hand. I am sure I nearly lost a Ford motor or two to the Fram crappiness.
Regardless of if Matt's research and my tired ass research agree, we both agree on K&N as being a good solid filter.
Do some research, it is a Fram rebrand if memory serves according to a bunch of online tests. If it is not a Fram rebrand, it is a Fram clone with similer Fram internals. For my engine it is K&N or Purilator ONLY. When you see a failed Fram or Fram clone on your engine, it is scary shit indeed...especially when you take the time and money to build that motor yourself by hand. I am sure I nearly lost a Ford motor or two to the Fram crappiness.
Regardless of if Matt's research and my tired ass research agree, we both agree on K&N as being a good solid filter.
M1-301
Like the Champ filter, this filter is made by Champion Labs. However, it uses a unique end plate and a thicker can that make it the strongest filter available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic media, which inproves filtration and flow. I'm happy to say that this filter is NOT a fake. It is definitely a unique design.
It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.
I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split.
Exploded view:
Like the Champ filter, this filter is made by Champion Labs. However, it uses a unique end plate and a thicker can that make it the strongest filter available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic media, which inproves filtration and flow. I'm happy to say that this filter is NOT a fake. It is definitely a unique design.
It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.
I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split.
Exploded view:
Originally posted by solo_mata_me
I would use Mobil 1 mineral oil in 10w 30 if I could find it for my SR, but wind up using Valvoiline of the same specs in mineral oil. Didn't know if that information I conveyed was clear.
I would use Mobil 1 mineral oil in 10w 30 if I could find it for my SR, but wind up using Valvoiline of the same specs in mineral oil. Didn't know if that information I conveyed was clear.
there is no such thing as mobil 1 mineral oil. All lubricants under the 'mobil 1' name are synthetic.
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rest in peace tim.
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rest in peace tim.
Last edited by Ostrich; Apr 13, 2004 at 04:49 AM.
Revolutionary
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 280
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I agree with matt and dude your cars one smooth coupe, I use mobil 1 in all my cars synthetic isn't any thinner than any other oil thats what the weight o the oil is for, it tells you how thick the oil is, and it will not burn up quicker conventional oil will burn up around 280 degrees and synthetic lasts until like 450, not sure on the temps but they should be fairly close, but if your car gets that hot you have bigger problems than oil brands, synthetic oil also coats the engine alot better, its stickier, so you have better protection against wear and heat, I would use mobil 10w-30 and add a bottle of stp 4 cylinder additive which helps protect even more and is inexpensive like a 1.50 or something, Oil filters don't matter there is only like 3 diferent manuactures and then everyone just slaps their names on them, k&n your just buying a name if purolater the same thing I say go for it, and gear oil this decision isn't as important as engine oil, cause your diff isn't work as hard, unless your towing or carrying alot of wieght,I use to work at a lube shop and met people that have never change their diff. fluid and it was fine, now I would reccomend this but it does help to illustrat the point that you shouldn't dwell on this, go with mobil 1 GL-5 if they have it if not just settle for what ever
else they have handy. Hope this helps -Josh
else they have handy. Hope this helps -Josh
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boostmonkey
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 14,791
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Sorry for the typo, Matt. I assumed all Mobil oil was under the "Mobil 1" moniker. Here is a link to the oil I was referring to (and John as well): http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...Clean_Oils.asp
And regardless of if I got the exact brand name right for the filter, you backed me up quite well when it came to the failure issue.
And regardless of if I got the exact brand name right for the filter, you backed me up quite well when it came to the failure issue.
5 Foot Fury
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,247
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For my SR I use Mobil 1 synthetic. At first I used Drive Clean. Now with aggressive driving and hot weather I’m using Mobil 1 15w-50 and K&N HP-1003 filter and if I can’t find that Mobil 1 H1-103 filter.
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