The correct way to build an s14.

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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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Thanks.

PS. I bought all the metal for tubs. Thats what the blue tap is for.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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please tell me you X'ed out the used engine bay in numerous places before you cut it up so you could reference it before welding the parts onto your chassis. I would hate to see you do all this work and not have it fit properly. And did you measure your strut tower to make sure it isnt back?
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:45 PM
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No I didnt, but it lines up just fine. I was carefull and I used alignment marks already on the car. The shock tower wasnt botherd a bit and neither was the frame. Just sheet metal damage. I drove the car around after the accident and it drove just as it did before.

I also havent welded anything on yet, its just sitting in place. Its not even clamped on. Only the core support and pass headlight pan are clamped down for reference. All that was just to take a picture. Tomrrow everything will get finallized and welded in place.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.

Last edited by longfellow2; Jan 16, 2009 at 06:51 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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i have been doing collision work for roughly 8 years now, i highly suggest if you can get another S14 that hasn't been wrecked and get reference measurement. line up marks aren't always enough. I learned that the hard way. If you can't get another one to measure off of, cross measure the underside of the hood using symmetrical points, and just make the measurements match. If you want I'm free anytime tomorow afternoon ill be happy to drop by and help you line everything up.

also if your motivated enough, put the hood and fenders on before welding. Get all your gaps perfect, weld, check gaps, weld some more, and so forth till your done.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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You're more than welcome to stop by tomarrow afternoon. Luckily its been pretty straight forward, and I have overlapped the upper rail and lower section which is why I'm happy with how it lines up. Im not done trimming the new section to fit yet either.

The new section came off of a new S14 which I cut apart for the front end. I have all the dimensions for the chassis in the factory service manual which gives points of reference.

After I get it all welded in, I'm cutting out the wheel wells and tubbing them for more clearence because I have issues with how low the car is.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old Jan 16, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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i wanna tub my front fenders so i can clear 17x10 fn's. i would love to have 10's all around. its lookin good so far. the first time i saw your car i loved it.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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Keep up the great work Dan.
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by autoxcessna
i wanna tub my front fenders so i can clear 17x10 fn's. i would love to have 10's all around. its lookin good so far. the first time i saw your car i loved it.
I kinda want to run 10's up front eventually too. But even now with how low my car is under compression the wheel would hit the inner fender pretty hard. It sucks.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Recap, this:



To this:









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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.

Last edited by longfellow2; Jan 17, 2009 at 01:20 PM.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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gaps dont look to bad just that driver fender/hood area



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