That's low man, sorry to hear.

 

People will still have their own opinions on whats right or wrong no matter what is brought to the table.
I dont have enough time in my day to deal with internet rambling . Ive already requested for this thread to get locked down.
Jerry can go about his ways , I dont care . I just would rather not see another thread get posted with any more negative dealings.

 

This should sum things up out there for all the haters that think I am a know it all and used bad judgement here. I have rebuilt 100s of transmissions with a total of three comebacks. I am not counting this one because it didnt come back to me. I am 100% sure at this point the transmission never had any issues. shifter cables and bad throw out bearing were causing the issues. not my work. Anyone would get mad to be asked to pay for some elses mistake and thats what went down here.

 

Quote Originally Posted by wishiwasfast View Post
I called him to see if he would be able around when I came over and just hung up after I told him it was me. I wasn't complaining to about him, wanting any money back. Just wanted some help..
That's low man, sorry to hear.

and this is stupid. why would I hang up on someone that I specifically asked to come by? full well knowing its a long way from here to boot. I have no memory of what really took place so cant defend myself on this one.

 

Jerry even into page 5 you still lack reading comprehension.
There was never a claim of shifting issus besides R..
I already said that i tend to agree on the shifter cables for 2,4
The problems I had were , The homemade shims, The differential bearing clearance, the chipped gearset and the quick carelessness that led to the reverse synchro.
The tob didn't magically chip a gear, put those shims in , and force the differential to clearance itself with the shim.

 

I dont have reading comprehension. I got your points in your opening post. youve done nothing after that but change why you are complaining after every new bit of information is added. what I see from pics posted is there was nothing wrong with reverse parts. you diagnosed them incorrectly and needlessly replace them along with shims and lock nuts. the trans never needed to come apart. this is beyond clear to me. you still havent figured this out. only 1-5 syncros were replaced. reverse was original. I have never purchased a new reverse syncro for a dsm trans. the reverse syncro will last 500,000 without needing replacement. the wear you saw was not from 90 miles, it was from 100,000. thats why I call you an idiot. you again assumed that you would be getting new parts that other shops advertise being replaced with every tran job. revers gear never spins fast before being engaged, so the syncro doesnt work hard to stop gear from spinning. that and the fact that the gear turns so slow that reverse syncro is not even needed at all. the vw and porsche transmissions I worked on dont even come with a reverse syncro..proper driving technique eliminates the small grind that you normally get from a reverse without syncro. shifting to 4th before engaging reverse will eliminate reverse grind.

You lied about reverse spring being installed incorrectly. When I talked to you I hadnt seen the pictures yet. You said the tabs were not lined up and the spring came out cocked when you took it apart. This conversion had me concerned that I truly did make a mistake. I told you that if i did make that mistake it would be easy one to make. You have to put the spring in the cover hoping it doesnt fall off before cover is fully seated. you would never know if spring cocks because you cant see it. The think is you dont understand that spring material is a metal with a very special heat treatment. they dont bend, they snap instead. so you lied to cover your lie about bending spring back before taking pictures of it. The you lied a third time by saying you had witnesses to the spring being mangled before the pics.

from your post 9.

The reverse spring was bent , i have 2 wintesses on this forum that can testify if need, I took the picture after we finagled with it just to show the actual rub marks, as that was more important to show with the reverse synchro .

The trans had 90 miles on it . I drove 80 to work and back. so the 5 times reverse was engaged It did the damage in the first picture. Hardly a drive to damage it some more.

I have made the mistake of bolting cover on with misaligned spring. I made this mistake once. Thing is every trans is shifted on the ground after final assembly. gear engagement is checked. reverse will not engage on the ground if this spring is not installed correctly! reverse simply wont go in at all. not even close. This can easily be shown in a video. the video would also show the spring cant misalign without totally mangling it.

But there really is no point. Even if there were a problem with reverse YOU SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT ME THE TRANS. ESPECIALLY SINCE TRANS HAD TO COME OUT ANYWAY FROM BAD THROW OUT BEARING.

you are dense Orlando. not me.

I am sooooooo glad I dint give you 300 to keep you quiet. Its been fun showing how stupid you really are.

I have ESP.
Orlandos next point will be " now santa is admitting I dint get new syncro on reverse!" "more used parts that should have been new" all in the light that he has already admitted at least twice paying for a new reverse wasnt a big deal.

The $23 reverse syncro . no big. ( not happy about it .) but the rest was a joke to my standards.


I also have no problem listing the 1200 in parts that went into this trans if they want to see that. not only will that show he got the 1200 he paid for but also got the ~300 in parts I had to throw in. But then again whats the point? Orlando has made it clear he didnt get what he "expected" to get. chipped gearset, homemade shims, reused locknuts. used parts that should have been replaced. image what this thread would be like if he didnt get the parts he truly did pay for. he admitted in out conversation he was relieved to see, the 4 spider diff with torrington bearing, the new cluster shaft with new double syncro second gear set, the modified shift fork, hardened evo 3 shift rails etc. etc.

 

The reverse spring was bent . It wasn't bent in half like your trying to make it out. Its quite flexible so you are wrong here since it didnt snap for me . Now your lying about not replacing the synchro. If that was 100k miles reverse synchro thats the cleanest looking synchro in history. The trans fluid alters the color after time and makes it alot darker.
This is exactly why that portion was bought to light. It was new and was gouged to hell and back. I personally saw one from another individual on this forum that Had 100k on it It didnt have any wear at all.NONE

I personally could have purchased all the parts for this transmission including the 4 spider upgrade for 1200. Where the hell are you getting your prices? Those components would be NEW , No questions asked.

You still think its ok to give someone a broken part. ???


Your so fucking retarded it not even funny any more.
Its funny that now that ive replaced the parts, I no longer have the problems. Dont go back and say its the tob , it wasnt and Your are dense for continuing to state thats all the problem I had.

Call your alien buddies up and have them probe some actual common sense into you. Yes that was unprofessional but you keep taking stabs so ill bring myself to your level.

 

You are so dumb I cant stand this any longer.
Here is a picture of two reverse syncros from my parts bin. Notice the wear pattern? looks pretty familiar? it should cause thats what they all look like after lots of miles. the clean one was cleaned for two seconds in gasoline. how dirty a syncro is depends on how much detergent is in the oil. they can come out looking like new after 100,000 miles. but dont trust me send that pic to jack and ask him if its even possible for that syncro to look like that after 90 miles. he will laugh off his seat. plus we dont even need two. any half way decent mechanic can see the exact same wear pattern that only occurs when that spring is seated correctly. if it wasnt seated correctly it wouldnt look like these. sorry you are so stupid it hurts.

 

cluster gear MD 740193 $265 (+35 cryo)
2nd gear MD 748577 $104
1/2 slider MD 749414 $126
1/2 3/4 forks md 746854 723439 $50
Bearings MD 742536 $25 MD 726237 $22.50 MD 726236 $29
output bearing # ? ~$25
syncros MD 745477 $19 MD 746435 $71 MD 742536 x2 $35
oil seals $15 dont have part numbers. input seal and ouput seal to t-case.
ad 10% for shipping of the above parts. I get them from mitsubishiparts.com
726 for above parts
toasted center diff $100 for good core
the shift rails came from TRE. cost $100
TRE charges 450 for 4 spider diff. mine doesnt have a billet cross shaft. I dont see excessive wear in the yellow car with a machined stocker. the load on the shaft is split in half when you add two gears. they always leave this info out when telling you need a stronger cross shaft.
if you subtract above parts from 1200 he was charged $275 for the 4 spider diff. smokin deal

and all the following parts were thrown in.

1st gear ~100, two needle bearings ~20 one hub ~100 one centercase ~125 where the used parts
i gave you. usually charge 35-50% of new depending on part.

 

MD748306

I got a quote from Jacks to buy this gear, he quoted me $252 for the gear.
mitsubishiparts.com quotes $245.66

I havent found a more economical way to buy parts.

so to anyone who thinks this guy didnt get a good deal.
FUCK YOU FUCK YOU and FUCK YOU