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cams + valve springs, fuel pump

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Old 11-29-2011, 06:42 PM
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Default cams + valve springs, fuel pump

can you install valve springs and cams without removing the head on a 2G?

just trying to make things easier if possible. also, i have looked up a few fuel pumps and i want to use a walbro 255, but i see the evo 9's work well to and a lot cheaper. now is it worth just getting the 255 and doing the rewire kit?

and what is the point of the rewire kit?

sorry for all the questions but not used to dealing with rewiring things.

thanks
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:28 PM
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Yes and yes
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:10 AM
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its almost impossible to get the valve spring compressed, even with 50-100 psi in the cylinder. the angle of our valves and how close they are together and to the casting. you may as well pull the head and put arp's and a mls hg.
Old 12-01-2011, 10:03 AM
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metal head gasket is never a good idea unless both head and block have fresh very smooth cut on them.

there is 62lbs seat pressure on dsm springs. 52 with evo behive. after market springs range 60-90 seat pressure. 100 psi in clylinder is more than enough to keep valves up. you will however have to unlock the keepers from the retainer first before compressing, otherwise it will be impossible. many have done valve spring swaps on car including myself. I have a special tool made that makes it real easy.

I do not however recommend anyone try it if you have to ask if its possible. take it to some one who has the knowledge/experience.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cjackson2802
its almost impossible to get the valve spring compressed, even with 50-100 psi in the cylinder. the angle of our valves and how close they are together and to the casting. you may as well pull the head and put arp's and a mls hg.
as jerry said on the springs . you have to have the tool for it . i spent the money on one and have used it not only in 4g's but alot of the cars in my dealership.

OP.
I also recommend having somebody around that knows how to do it or else youll be pulling the head .
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lancerman
metal head gasket is never a good idea unless both head and block have fresh very smooth cut on them.

there is 62lbs seat pressure on dsm springs. 52 with evo behive. after market springs range 60-90 seat pressure. 100 psi in clylinder is more than enough to keep valves up. you will however have to unlock the keepers from the retainer first before compressing, otherwise it will be impossible. many have done valve spring swaps on car including myself. I have a special tool made that makes it real easy.

I do not however recommend anyone try it if you have to ask if its possible. take it to some one who has the knowledge/experience.
thats why most MLS head gaskets come with viton coating on them, I always use copper coat ontop of that. and if there was really any imperfections bad enough that a metal gasket wouldnt seal, then most likely even with a composite gasket there will be potential problems if they ever decide to mod the car. I always O ring my heads and use L19 ARP's. As far as the special tool and knowing how to do it, In my honest opinion I'd rather just pull the head. Its hard enough keeping track of the keepers with the head off. It only takes 15-30 minutes to pull the head, and maybe an hour tops putting it back on and running.
Old 12-01-2011, 11:35 AM
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Ive heard mixed things about MLS head gaskets and supposed to have a "mirror" surface on the head and block. In reality....anything out of spec should be fixed weather its a metal or composite gasket. I havn't yet once seen a metal gasket leak and ive had my share of head gasket jobs.
Old 12-01-2011, 02:59 PM
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MLS gaskets need a perfectly flat and smooth surface to seal correctly. using copper coat does not make it work when a surface is too rough or not straight. You simply are giving bad advice.

When engine is running the head and block are moving around from expansion and contraction. In case of composite gasket the composite flexes enough so the connection is not broken. In case of MLS there is no give. But that is why there are layers. the layers allow sliding motion without breaking seal. But the two surfaces need to be perfectly flat and just as smooth for movement to take place without loosing seal. Composite gaskets compress about .010. This will allow for the head or block to be slightly wavy and still get a good seal. You will simply have .010 compression in some spots and .008 in other spots.( loose example) In case of metal gaskets there is not the same amount of give to gasket. there is none. There is only compression ring around cylinders that has give. MLS gaskets dont seal better than composite, they seal worse. The reason they are a high performance gasket is because they can survive slight head lifting during detonation . the little bit of heat and pressure that squeezes by will destroy composites. What I found from experience is during head lift composite gaskets blow and car is no longer drivable. the same amount of lift will leave MLS in tact but with minor leak. Both will need to be replaced. Its just you can drive home on the hurt metal gasket. You wont get two miles on blown composite gasket. With composite costing 32 and MLS 80 I felt it not worth being able to drive a little farther being worth the difference in price. With good tuning neither gasket will be better than the other. they both seal just fine.

your preference to remove head to install springs is all fine and dandy. but dont claim you are saving time by pulling the head. you cant reuse composite gaskets, and you cant reuse MLS either once you o-ring head or block. so you are not only spending more time you are spending money too.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:47 AM
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thanks for all the help.
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