all mounts are lined up right, i mean as far as i know everything gos together right and everything works right.

yes it is a swapped colt.

i am running stock turbo on stock boost the only aftermarket part i have is cams.

as far as bolts the small one for the rear is from discount auto (i just bought it to replace the last one that snapped), dont know what grade or metal.and the top 2 are what i believe are OEM, ummm the front one is a bolt and nut (because the block is stripped out so i just ran a long bolt with a nut on the end, and then the starter bolts are just OEM ones from discount.

i was talking with a friend and we think maybe the plate/spacer that gos between the block and tranny is maybe warped and not allowing it to sit flush or something. the one that i have in the car is a FWD modified to fit an AWD tranny (or the other way around).


i guess i am going to go ahead and pull the tranny in the morning and go get some grade 8 bolts and try that.

but we just don't understand why it dose this we have a guy that is making way more power then i ever have in a awd car beating the shit out of the tranny with solid motor mounts and has never had a problem like this before. and i have never had this problem before with any other motor that i have had in my car when i was making more power.
:e vil:

 

Well, I am not so worried about the grade of the bolts as I would be the mounting position of the tranny. It is important that the dowel pins are "intact" and are not floating. If they are you need to replace them as the wear and tear from the aging in conjunction with vibration has changed their tolerance. One of my rear pins was floating in position even though it was still in place it did not function as it was intended. The tranny side has a bit of a cavity for the rear dowel to fit. If it is off or loose, or out of round it will not perform as you need it to.

When I mentioned above about the grade of the bolt, I had drilled out the rear dowel pin hole slightly over bore to fit a 14mm bolt in place of the 12mm bolt and still be able to house the pin. I then tapped the tranny for a 14mm bolt. I was able to use the thread of the rear engine mount (dowel pin hole) to insert the 14mm bolt into place and fastening the tranny thinking that it was going to fix my problem. Well it sheered right through it as well. Not knowing if this was due to torque or not because I just sheered an axle weeks before... I was beside myself.... until... I fixed my vibration problem (cams are mad vibration) the dowel pins, and anything else that causes bolts to snap... or back out.

To make a long story longer... the old tranny is now sitting in my garage... I got a new one...that grinds in second after an hour of straight driving...WTF... but the idea that you are going to fix a problem with going bigger...stronger... fatter... "grade 8" is more than likely not going to fix what you are already over looking... what I mean is... it is not the bolts that are the problem.

 

That's funny, I have solid mounts in my car. When I say solid, I mean welded steel. I have never had a transmission bolt back out. I am a sprirted driver running my car over 40psi beyond the stock tach.

OEM bolts do wonders. Try not to tighten the little past its yield. Another thing that crosses my mind is that you might need to adjust your clutch. If you have too much travel with your clutch release bearing your slave cylinder will put additional force on your transmission bolts and crankshaft.