Bleeding the clutch
Ok so my 97 GST we put the big 16g in it the other day and after finally fixing the oil leak we get in it to drive it and the clutch was literally just sitttin on the floor. Well I took the cap off the place where you put in the fluid saw that it was topped off so I stuck it back on we pumped the clutch finally it got firm, however it doesnt feel the same it used to be hard as shit i have a act 2600 and fidanza 8lb flywheel that are about 2000miles old. I put it in first and revved it a little to make sure i was fully engaged and i didnt start to roll or anything, however later i went out just taking it up and down hillsborough ave boostin it up trying to set my boost to the right psi and i smell a weird burning smell and a guy i know stops me outside my neighborhood and says smells like my clutch is burning. still not moving when in gear. I have bled the clutches on a RS/GS but not the 4g63s. And when i did it on a 420a it seemed like it could be stiffer. I would just bleed it like the brakes push down release close let up slow repeat till no air. I dont have my haynes manual idk where its at.. where do I bleed this out and is there anything im doing wrong?
you're doing it wrong
you need to pump the clutch pedal repeatedly, push to the ground and hold, then open the bleed valve. When it stops coming out, close the bleed valve and pump it more, and repeat this process til no more air comes out when you bleed. Very simple process but much easier with the someone helping
you need to pump the clutch pedal repeatedly, push to the ground and hold, then open the bleed valve. When it stops coming out, close the bleed valve and pump it more, and repeat this process til no more air comes out when you bleed. Very simple process but much easier with the someone helping
its a hydraulic system, pretty simple mechanism. If it fell to the floor, then there's no resistance, meaning no pressure in the system. Its possible the clutch slave or master cylinder needs to be replaced.
is there a way to tell if one or the other are bad or just hit or miss? and any idea why my clutch would be smoking
and i dont usually get parts off ebay that are new but are these any good do you know?
eBay Motors: 1995-99 ECLIPSE TURBO CLUTCH MASTER & SLAVE CYLINDER (item 150234950935 end time Apr-16-08 12:30:42 PDT)
A little more $
eBay Motors: Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo clutch slave & master cylinder (item 310039271950 end time Apr-14-08 11:02:29 PDT)
and these are twice as much but maybe better?
eBay Motors: [1995-99] ECLIPSE TURBO CLUTCH MASTER & SLAVE CYLINDER (item 170209951502 end time Apr-18-08 18:56:57 PDT)
and i dont usually get parts off ebay that are new but are these any good do you know?
eBay Motors: 1995-99 ECLIPSE TURBO CLUTCH MASTER & SLAVE CYLINDER (item 150234950935 end time Apr-16-08 12:30:42 PDT)
A little more $
eBay Motors: Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo clutch slave & master cylinder (item 310039271950 end time Apr-14-08 11:02:29 PDT)
and these are twice as much but maybe better?
eBay Motors: [1995-99] ECLIPSE TURBO CLUTCH MASTER & SLAVE CYLINDER (item 170209951502 end time Apr-18-08 18:56:57 PDT)
Last edited by minitruckinxxxx; Apr 13, 2008 at 07:42 AM.
if you have a ss clutch line then you could have pulled it thinking ti was your oil line when you did turbo swap............I'm telling you man you need to get a good matchport on everything or itll never run to its potential.
i had the same problems , it ended up being the clutch line..i changed out the clutch and slave master cylinder first but found out it was the clutch line




