Why dsm??
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well since you staed that there is NO advantage to AWD cars and that they get smoked by FWD civics
then there is NO advantage to our cars. These cars are extremely upgradeable and if you find an earlier one you can do extensive things without fear of reducing the motor to kit form. But as with any car they have probs the older ones need drivetrain upgrades to match the motors and other nickel and dime shit but they can be put into the mid 13s for less than a grand. Talk to all of the other dsm gurus they know a helluva alot more than me but i am stilllearning
then there is NO advantage to our cars. These cars are extremely upgradeable and if you find an earlier one you can do extensive things without fear of reducing the motor to kit form. But as with any car they have probs the older ones need drivetrain upgrades to match the motors and other nickel and dime shit but they can be put into the mid 13s for less than a grand. Talk to all of the other dsm gurus they know a helluva alot more than me but i am stilllearning
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There is no need to swap the engine of a 4g63 (turbo engine). What he was talking about is if you get an older model (90-94) its a good idea to upgrade the drivetrain components. If you have a car making 300hp with 8 year old drivetrain components that were designed for 200hp something has gotta give. The older DSMs all wheel drive can be made to run 13s with very little money invested in them. The value of all wheel drive on the street is amazing they spin you are a car or two ahead... 
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Joined: Nov 2000
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I ran the time in my sig with a boost controller air filter and exhaust. Do the math. The aged turbo didnt last long but what do you want for a car with 150000 miles on it. I have some little problems to work out at the moment.
The drive train upgrades are basically beefed up stock parts. Certain years (92.5 and up) have a stronger rear suspension. It is AWD so it has a FWD type tranny a transfer case that has a drive shaft going to diff. in the rear that drives the rear wheels. It is a 50/50 but a stock open diff in the front and MIDDLE. Usually a LSD in the rear though....YES we have 3 differentials. We weld the center one to make things more durable. A slight binding when pulling into parking spaces and the like can happen but your diff. wont break and you can dyno the car.
The only REAL DSM engine is the 4G63 turbo motor. The 90-94 had the same motor with higher compression for the non-turbo. In 95 they went with a Chrysler based motor for the non-turbos that is very close to the Neon motor.
They come FWD in either Turbo or non all years and AWD turbo only for all years.
The 90-94 have a good sized turbo stock. The 95+ have a smaller hair dryer sized T-25 turbo charger. So one of the first upgrades for the 2Gs is a turbo. A rebuilt stock 90-94 turbo on even a 95+ car is good for 12 second time slips and over 300HP. Thats pushing it though.
You only need to ride in an AWD car being launched once. It will make you laugh it is so ridiculous. 1.7 and lower 60 times are not un heard of. 16GAWD on this board has cut some 1.6s. Note the pic of my car. The rear squats the front tires spin a tiny bit. The rears just plant and you go like a bat out of hell. Putting at least a car on most street cars from the start. The traction is where we get our great times. While the other guy is heating up his slicks Im just waiting at the start line concentrating and still put a car on him. Ive pulled a car on some really fast cars for the first 60s or so. Half the time I think they get shocked....punch the throttle....and spin the tires. Regardless traction is our big advantage....except our wrong wheel drive brothers....
The drive train upgrades are basically beefed up stock parts. Certain years (92.5 and up) have a stronger rear suspension. It is AWD so it has a FWD type tranny a transfer case that has a drive shaft going to diff. in the rear that drives the rear wheels. It is a 50/50 but a stock open diff in the front and MIDDLE. Usually a LSD in the rear though....YES we have 3 differentials. We weld the center one to make things more durable. A slight binding when pulling into parking spaces and the like can happen but your diff. wont break and you can dyno the car.
The only REAL DSM engine is the 4G63 turbo motor. The 90-94 had the same motor with higher compression for the non-turbo. In 95 they went with a Chrysler based motor for the non-turbos that is very close to the Neon motor.
They come FWD in either Turbo or non all years and AWD turbo only for all years.
The 90-94 have a good sized turbo stock. The 95+ have a smaller hair dryer sized T-25 turbo charger. So one of the first upgrades for the 2Gs is a turbo. A rebuilt stock 90-94 turbo on even a 95+ car is good for 12 second time slips and over 300HP. Thats pushing it though.
You only need to ride in an AWD car being launched once. It will make you laugh it is so ridiculous. 1.7 and lower 60 times are not un heard of. 16GAWD on this board has cut some 1.6s. Note the pic of my car. The rear squats the front tires spin a tiny bit. The rears just plant and you go like a bat out of hell. Putting at least a car on most street cars from the start. The traction is where we get our great times. While the other guy is heating up his slicks Im just waiting at the start line concentrating and still put a car on him. Ive pulled a car on some really fast cars for the first 60s or so. Half the time I think they get shocked....punch the throttle....and spin the tires. Regardless traction is our big advantage....except our wrong wheel drive brothers....
Wherever I may roam...
Joined: Mar 2001
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Thats why Ive always hated (well actually envied) DSMs they take off like nothing and all I get
tao do is hear their turbo spool as Im just gettting traction. Then one I think Ive got traction and a
chance the turbo kicks in and its all over. What type of drivetrain mods must be done? New
clutch lsd (how many??) what else? What are the differences between a 16g and 20g turbo?? If
I was to say I wanted a fairly inexpensive awd turbo dsm. Daily driven yet able to kick some
serious ass what would you recommend? I was planning to buy another honda but Im 99% sure
the one I want will be gone before I have the money. Basically I can have about 5g to spend on
a car at the end of the summer. I plan to continuously mod it afterwards. Any ideas? Can I find an
awd turbo dsm for less than 5g? What is a reasonable price? Sorry for all the questions but Im
concidering switching from honda to dsm. Oh also how reliable are they?? Tha
tao do is hear their turbo spool as Im just gettting traction. Then one I think Ive got traction and a
chance the turbo kicks in and its all over. What type of drivetrain mods must be done? New
clutch lsd (how many??) what else? What are the differences between a 16g and 20g turbo?? If
I was to say I wanted a fairly inexpensive awd turbo dsm. Daily driven yet able to kick some
serious ass what would you recommend? I was planning to buy another honda but Im 99% sure
the one I want will be gone before I have the money. Basically I can have about 5g to spend on
a car at the end of the summer. I plan to continuously mod it afterwards. Any ideas? Can I find an
awd turbo dsm for less than 5g? What is a reasonable price? Sorry for all the questions but Im
concidering switching from honda to dsm. Oh also how reliable are they?? Tha
red ass
Joined: Jul 2000
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well depneding on the year and condition in this case we will consintrate on 1gs 90-94.They cost anywhere from about 2000 up to about 5000. If you buy a 90 or 91 and soem 92 drive line up grade you consist of putting a 4 bolt rearend in welding the center diff(some people think welding makes it crappy for daily driving i dont think its that bad) and doing some tranny upgrades (ie..steel shift forks and double synchro 2nd gear although some of the early 90s you cant do the 2nd gear stuff to) the 92.5-94 have the 4 bolt rearend already and will only need to have the trany mods done. They all benifit from a act 2600 clutch and that about it for the drive linbe
As far as how fast you can go? you can put one in the mid to low 13s for about 1000 to 1300 dollars. boost controler turbo back exhaust air filter fuel pump and you will be good to go!
Reliablity hmm that is a very interesting question.Any time you mod a car the reliablity is going to go down some you also have to concider that some of these cars are going on 10 or 11 years old they are going to need some work. they can be very reliable but you need to be realistic about the goals you are going to set for the car and the condition of the car you buy.
Really your best bet is going to www.dsm.org and read your ass off!! Just about all of the local dsm guys started there basic knowledge there!! also go to www.vfaq.com (there is a link on the dsm page)..research research research! its the key!
As far as how fast you can go? you can put one in the mid to low 13s for about 1000 to 1300 dollars. boost controler turbo back exhaust air filter fuel pump and you will be good to go!
Reliablity hmm that is a very interesting question.Any time you mod a car the reliablity is going to go down some you also have to concider that some of these cars are going on 10 or 11 years old they are going to need some work. they can be very reliable but you need to be realistic about the goals you are going to set for the car and the condition of the car you buy.
Really your best bet is going to www.dsm.org and read your ass off!! Just about all of the local dsm guys started there basic knowledge there!! also go to www.vfaq.com (there is a link on the dsm page)..research research research! its the key!
__________________
eric.
Build your car for YOU, not for the fame and glory. Fame and glory fade with time but YOU will be around as long as you live.
eric.
Build your car for YOU, not for the fame and glory. Fame and glory fade with time but YOU will be around as long as you live.
