good shop to get bottom end done
15 seconds EXHILARATION
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Wait, so it puffs some smoke when you first start it and when you accelerate from a stop after idling for a while, as in accelerating from a light? And not at other times? Have you done a compression test? Those symptoms sound more like valve stem seals and possibly valve guides. Maybe start off with a quick compression test and a $30 set of valve stem seals before you go rebuilding the engine, unless you have some other reason to believe it's blown.
first
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The difference between me and you is I can deduce that there is no difference between a 6bolt and 7bolt block other than one has a nitrided crank and one doesn't. This is not theory, its fact.
both have same oil pumps. both have same size oil passages. both have eight squirters. both have same size oil clearances. both have same oil pressure.
is someone going to nitride 400 cranks in 400 cars to prove the theory to people like you? not a chance in a million.
If you have another theory thats makes any kind of mechanical sense at all I would be happy to debate it with you.
both have same oil pumps. both have same size oil passages. both have eight squirters. both have same size oil clearances. both have same oil pressure.
is someone going to nitride 400 cranks in 400 cars to prove the theory to people like you? not a chance in a million.
If you have another theory thats makes any kind of mechanical sense at all I would be happy to debate it with you.
That's great, but at this point, without any testing, it's just a nice sounding idea. What of all the other nice sounding ideas that turned out to be bull-sh*t? Maybe this will become the turd that tops the pile.
Until your idea is tested, it's just a nice sounding idea. The tests are necessary to form a reasonable conclusion (as science teaches us).
The contention here, then, is not that you're wrong, but that your claim that you're right is as hasty a claim as I've ever seen. Let the evidence come in...
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Last edited by AnthrAxNSB; 09-11-2006 at 12:22 PM.
Dick is Huge!
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Wait, so it puffs some smoke when you first start it and when you accelerate from a stop after idling for a while, as in accelerating from a light? And not at other times? Have you done a compression test? Those symptoms sound more like valve stem seals and possibly valve guides. Maybe start off with a quick compression test and a $30 set of valve stem seals before you go rebuilding the engine, unless you have some other reason to believe it's blown.
WARM motor.
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Totalled his shit!@
Totalled his shit!@
diballacully slow
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I have the best stocked shop of used parts in the state of florida and I no longer do 6 bolt swaps. there are a shitload of parts that are different. It is far smarter to stay 7 bolt. The 7 bolt is a better motor by far anyway. Even if you dont have a nitrided crank. Not to mention if you do run a 6 bolt swap you have to run dsm link or AEM to rid ignition misfire problems.
Magnus Motorsports read read read!
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Awd the enemy of fwd
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Juan you know my opinion. we argue it all the time. But does anyone think that the later 3 piece thrust bearing has anything to do with preventing crankwalk? Im still all about the nitraded crank. When it comes time for me to pick one up from Jerry I will be calling him.
I know that my motor in my car had 80k on it when I bought it. I put an additional 55k on it. And a good 50k of it was with out the clutch pedal switch mod. A week before I spun a rod bearing the BROTHERS checked the crank for end play and there was no signs of the crankwalking.
All that im saying is that nitrading and the three piece bearing in the later 98 99 blocks is the 7 bolt I would go with.
I know that my motor in my car had 80k on it when I bought it. I put an additional 55k on it. And a good 50k of it was with out the clutch pedal switch mod. A week before I spun a rod bearing the BROTHERS checked the crank for end play and there was no signs of the crankwalking.
All that im saying is that nitrading and the three piece bearing in the later 98 99 blocks is the 7 bolt I would go with.
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2 Step @ 1.5 bars..... Who wants some
And I thought that AWD is to have traction.
2 Step @ 1.5 bars..... Who wants some
And I thought that AWD is to have traction.
Non DSM.....DSM guy
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That's great, but at this point, without any testing, it's just a nice sounding idea. What of all the other nice sounding ideas that turned out to be bull-sh*t? Maybe this will become the turd that tops the pile.
Until your idea is tested, it's just a nice sounding idea. The tests are necessary to form a reasonable conclusion (as science teaches us).
The contention here, then, is not that you're wrong, but that your claim that you're right is as hasty a claim as I've ever seen. Let the evidence come in...
Until your idea is tested, it's just a nice sounding idea. The tests are necessary to form a reasonable conclusion (as science teaches us).
The contention here, then, is not that you're wrong, but that your claim that you're right is as hasty a claim as I've ever seen. Let the evidence come in...
Anyone who builds a 6 bolt knows not to use a cut crank. The factory manual says "do not cut journals undersize or the surface coating will be lost" . Factory does not sell oversize bearings for 1g cranks. However the 2g manual says its okay to cut the crank. And they do sell oversize bearings for the 2g motors.
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want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
