ok ok its dsm time (help!!!)
Builder Of Import Engines
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 542
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Let me say up front that I owned a 91 AWD Talon for about 12 years, and it was the best car I've ever owned, bar none. The car responds real well to basic power upgrades such as intake, exhaust, porting. Many people have gotten their 1G DSM into the 14's for less than $800, working with the stock bottom end.
These cars are very finicky; they run great one day, then don't run for shit the next.. Parts aren't cheap.. There is a recall on the transfer case seal- many dealerships won't honor the recall saying its been done before, we don't need to do it again; the problem is that the rear seal on the x-fer case is prone to leaking- if it runs dry, the x-fer case locks up, locking all four tires with it. not fun when driving at 60mph.
There is a website, www.dsmtalk.com that has been running for many years now; the archives there have just about every bit of information that you could want to know about these cars.. The folks that run the place are very knowlegeable, and discounts on OEM and performance parts for these cars are available through that site.
Every year, there is a DSM Shootout, held in Norwalk, Ohio- it is an anual event sponsored by Dave Buschur, usually about 3-500 DSM's show up, from all over the country. Do a google search for DSM Shootout to find out more.
When looking at early model/high mileage DSM's, be certain that the Timing Belt has been changed recently, along with all the tensioners- these cars have an interference motor, so if your Tbelt goes out, your screwed. Don't take the owner's word for it, demand reciepts, or change it out as soon as is possible- better safe than sorry. (Use only OEM timing belts- all others are prone to stretching)
90 & 91 and early 92 (pre-april of 92)motors were built with larger (stronger)connecting rods.
late model 92 cars were built with a stronger rear end; some even had LSD rears.
Automatics used a smaller turbo, smaller injectors, and a weaker cam.
The manual transmission is notoriously weak. (many companies offer upgraded parts though)
Wiring for the fuel pump is too small a gauge; should be replaced at earliest convenience (def. before any turbo modifications)
Stock boost gauge is completely inaccurate- purchase an autometer gauge before even thinking about modifying the boost levels.
stock 14b turbo (found on m/t cars) can efficiently opperate at 20lbs of boost; however, the stock intercooler doesn't work so well after 16-18lbs
AWD models use an equal length half-shaft for the drivers front axle, FWD models don't.
AWD launches are the shit- you'll end up beating many cars with much higher hp because you have INSTA-TRACTION.
A/T cars are generally considered to be more reliable; many upgrades for this transmission are available as well. (easy to change the
turbo/cams/injectors/ecu to have your motor running the same as the M/T)
Cylinder heads are the same for all 1989-1994 2.0ltr models- the only difference is the camshafts. (hyundai elantra 2.0ltrs use the same head as well)
visual how-to's for the modification of these cars can be found at
www.vfaq.com (everything from engine removal/rebuild to interior modifications)
As with any turbo-charged vehicle, its a good idea to give the car a minute to cool down before shutting it off; a turbo timer (a device that keeps the car running after you turn of the key, for a pre-determined length of time) is a good investment in your turbo's health. 90 seconds is usually good.
DSM= Don't Start Modding (Its addictive)
DSM= Turning ordinary people into mechanics since 1989
Again, visit www.dsmtalk.com for more info on these cars.
Be prepared to do most of the work on this car yourself- alot of mechanics charge a premium for working on them..
If you have any further questions, feel free to PM me, or email at EngineBuilder@hotmail.com
-EngineBuilder
These cars are very finicky; they run great one day, then don't run for shit the next.. Parts aren't cheap.. There is a recall on the transfer case seal- many dealerships won't honor the recall saying its been done before, we don't need to do it again; the problem is that the rear seal on the x-fer case is prone to leaking- if it runs dry, the x-fer case locks up, locking all four tires with it. not fun when driving at 60mph.
There is a website, www.dsmtalk.com that has been running for many years now; the archives there have just about every bit of information that you could want to know about these cars.. The folks that run the place are very knowlegeable, and discounts on OEM and performance parts for these cars are available through that site.
Every year, there is a DSM Shootout, held in Norwalk, Ohio- it is an anual event sponsored by Dave Buschur, usually about 3-500 DSM's show up, from all over the country. Do a google search for DSM Shootout to find out more.
When looking at early model/high mileage DSM's, be certain that the Timing Belt has been changed recently, along with all the tensioners- these cars have an interference motor, so if your Tbelt goes out, your screwed. Don't take the owner's word for it, demand reciepts, or change it out as soon as is possible- better safe than sorry. (Use only OEM timing belts- all others are prone to stretching)
90 & 91 and early 92 (pre-april of 92)motors were built with larger (stronger)connecting rods.
late model 92 cars were built with a stronger rear end; some even had LSD rears.
Automatics used a smaller turbo, smaller injectors, and a weaker cam.
The manual transmission is notoriously weak. (many companies offer upgraded parts though)
Wiring for the fuel pump is too small a gauge; should be replaced at earliest convenience (def. before any turbo modifications)
Stock boost gauge is completely inaccurate- purchase an autometer gauge before even thinking about modifying the boost levels.
stock 14b turbo (found on m/t cars) can efficiently opperate at 20lbs of boost; however, the stock intercooler doesn't work so well after 16-18lbs
AWD models use an equal length half-shaft for the drivers front axle, FWD models don't.
AWD launches are the shit- you'll end up beating many cars with much higher hp because you have INSTA-TRACTION.
A/T cars are generally considered to be more reliable; many upgrades for this transmission are available as well. (easy to change the
turbo/cams/injectors/ecu to have your motor running the same as the M/T)
Cylinder heads are the same for all 1989-1994 2.0ltr models- the only difference is the camshafts. (hyundai elantra 2.0ltrs use the same head as well)
visual how-to's for the modification of these cars can be found at
www.vfaq.com (everything from engine removal/rebuild to interior modifications)
As with any turbo-charged vehicle, its a good idea to give the car a minute to cool down before shutting it off; a turbo timer (a device that keeps the car running after you turn of the key, for a pre-determined length of time) is a good investment in your turbo's health. 90 seconds is usually good.
DSM= Don't Start Modding (Its addictive)
DSM= Turning ordinary people into mechanics since 1989
Again, visit www.dsmtalk.com for more info on these cars.
Be prepared to do most of the work on this car yourself- alot of mechanics charge a premium for working on them..
If you have any further questions, feel free to PM me, or email at EngineBuilder@hotmail.com
-EngineBuilder
