3mm seals and doweled motors are just an excuse and a bandaid for shitty tuning. Having some retard at a machine shop dowel your motor is prob going to do more damage to it than good. As for 3mm seals, there is no need for then for that power level, you better have brand new housing it you wanna start that motor on a hot day. They may be better for detonation but have very poor low rpm strting and sealing, not to mention the added weight and chattering they will do at higher rpms. Why do you think mazda went away with them? Thiker isnt always better, shit they started out with 6mm seals found out they sealed poorly, then went to 3mm seals and found put they also had poor low rpm gas sealing.If you want 500whp reliably go check out waterinjection.info look up rice racings car. I'll see if I can find the sae papers i have for the seal changes an reasoning behind it.

 

Waterinjection.info! There's sooooooo much useful and valid info on there from real automotive engineers that daily 5-700hp vehicles. Auxiliary injection is by far the easiest and safest way to make power on our engines!

 

I have the same oil pan brace right now and it seems to hold up fine. And when I said dowel. I meant dowel+pin.


Their could be newer turbos out their I'm not aware of. Its what I wanted to use over a year ago now. But with the purchase of my new house it kind of got put on the back shelf. This is the kit I was going to go with.

T04Z Turbo Kit RX-7


1600 primaries are insane. The secondaries would be ok. But I don't plan on going more than a little more than 500. I hated tuning my 1680s on my second gen. I don't want to go through that again. The math works out just fine with 850/1300 for my power level. I feel any bigger is just a pure waste.

Not a expert on meth/water injection. So can't really give any experience or opinion. I just like what I have read so far about the 50/50 mix. As far as the tune goes if you inject at certain points of your map then you know where to add or subtract fuel.

I am about to start a new position in my company that will hopefully give me more time and money to work on it the way it should be worked on.

 

Its not just a excuse for bad tuning. Its another level of safety. Doweling+pinning the motor will prevent the keg from twisting out of shape. I don't plan on running new housing if I don't have to. If they can't be recovered and the builder says they need to be replaced I will. But to ensure it last longer I will add the extra protection. The chattering you are speaking of also has to do with the springs and the type of seal you use. If you use some cheap 3mm seal + spring expect cheap results. But if you plan to drop 2k on just apex seals + springs. That is a different matter. Added weight can be easily adjusted if you have your rotating assemble balanced you will be fine. And just for your info I'm not sending my motor to just any machine shop. I will send it out of state to a bigger name shop. Not uncle charlie at the corner of dale marby and fletcher.


Good website btw.

 

Also for everyone that ever has thought or loved rotaries you should read this book.

Street Rotary by Mark Warner | Free Shipping at DeepDiscount.com

Also same author but about turbos.
Street Turbocharging by Mark Warner | Free Shipping at DeepDiscount.com

 

Rice Racing prepared 13B-REW short blocks

By far one of the best non-japanese tuner of high hp rotarys

 

I fell in love with Rice Racing... just wish the guy wasnt such a dick at times, but he knows what hes doing. I intend to copy his mechanical water injection setup to the T. Im a big fan of pre turbo application and figured one post turbo wouldnt hurt either. Preciate the website tho Zack cuz i couldnt remember what it was off the top of my head. Buddha i own a fair amount of rotary books including street rotary, and while its a good book for general knowledge, quite a bit of it came from members of 7 club. Not saying that those people are not smart on the rotary as i use it as a resource all the time when im tinkering with stuff, but they are very reluctant to get into anything crazy in depth. I also have a wonderful book on building custom intake and exhaust systems for various applications based on velocity and flow and wave timing and all that good stuff. I have various how to Rotary dvds. I have templates. Ive read all about the various seals available and feel that the 3mm seals are only useful when your rotor is beyond capable of holding a 2mm properly. I have been all over Rices porting templates as well as Judge Ito and his lil flip for the NA ports. Ive contemplated hunders and hundreds of high horsepower rotary builds in my head. Mapped out systems for it. designed intake and exhaust systems for various ports and power levels. different suspension setups for various track cars. I spend the majority of my time at work going over rotary performance in my head and while ive never put any of it to practical use, i am very familar with the concepts and theories.

One more comment on the 1600cc all around. Injector Dynamics are wonderful injectors. Not like 95% of the "great" injectors on the market. The spray pattern and pintle design are phenominal. They stage well. have almost no issues. 900whp supras are running 2000cc all the way around with no idle issues... no around the town drivability issues that im aware of. There doesnt seem to be any lag and dwell issues from idle to WOT. I understand that people arent used to these injectors yet due to the price and the all... but i honestly was contemplating running 2000cc all the way around... till i realized i would never be able to ever capitalize on the power potential in a street application. I figured 1600 would give me plenty for street and if i ever decided i needed more power for track i wouldnt have to worry about fuel supply issues. BTW, how do you like the Supra pumps? i know the bosch pumps are noisey but i know they work well..

 

I am running 4/1600cc RC Engineering injectors with no drivability issues.

 

I drove my car with the stock wheel and tire up front. The car had alot of wandering issues with the bias ply out back. Since the change the car is more stable and controllable. I have no braking issues as I drive the speed limit on the street. I always have to take in consideration the smaller tire size when driving as well.

 

If the car isnt running (key in the on position) I can hear it, but I don't notice it at all when driving or during idle. I also have mine rewired.



Also I jumped out the resistor pack to ensure a 12v would be constantly sent to the relay. The resistor pack can lower the voltage down to 9volt and this would not be enough to close the added bosch relay.