hey guys i am currently looking at buying a 3rd generation rx7 and i came across this car on yahoo autos and the price seemed pretty decent and the car is not far away from me. here the link to the car let me know what you guys think.. thanks

1993 Mazda RX-7,--

 

at the very least expect to pay 10k for a stock 3rd gen RX7.this one seems to have some upgrades done to it so te price sems fair. but remember that when a car is STOCK you know exactly what has been done to it, not just what theyve said.

 

Whether or not that is a good deal is dependent on a compression check.

~James

 

Yep, don't buy it without a compression check.

 

i dont really know much about these motors...so i can see that this car is turbo but is it just stock turbo that come on most of the rx7's? also how do u do a compression check?


thanks and sorry for the qustions

 

All 3rd generation cars came with a twin turbo system stock. I can not view the photos so I cant tell you either way. A compression check is completed to see how healthy the engine is. It can be completed by any service shop. No problem about the questions, it is what we are here for.

If you do not know very much about these motors, make sure you have twice the amount of the purchase price in the bank prior to starting your endeavor.

~James

 

ok thanks guys..so james your saying these cars are expensive to maintain?

 

Yes. 3rd Gens are very expensive to maintain if you are unable to perform the maintenance yourself. Worst case scenerio you buy one without getting a compression check and the engine blows. To pay someone to rebuild the engine will run you a pretty penny (Someone correct me if I'm wrong about $2000-$3000). Now, if you how the know how to do it yourself, it will run you the cost of the parts, which is about $1200 and you can buy a dvd that will teach you how to rebuild the engine -> http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...roductid=16795

Here is another source if you were to just buy an engine
RX7 Store - Rotary performance parts and accessories

 

+1

Compression test first. As long as it puts up decent #'s then it looks like a decent deal. (provided it passes all the normal used car tests).

Also note:
A little smoke on initial start up is perfectly normal, however any lingering smoke is not.

WHITE SMOKE = coolant seal failure
Most of the time its the engine coolant seals, which require a rebuild to replace. The seals themselves are pretty cheap, as is the labor if you do it yourself, but must opt for full rebuild when tearing the engine down for coolant seals.

(I know FC's have liquid cooled turbos so....) The coolant seals in the turbos could also be bad in which case its a cheaper fix, but still a powerful bargaining tool, but white smoke due to turbo failure is pretty rare.

BLACK SMOKE = Running Rich

Anyone who doubts this, just try following James around <20 mph w/ your windows down....not a fun time lol. For whatever reason, the engine is seeing too much fuel and is unable to burn it all in the combustion process. This is a pretty easy to fix problem in most cases, just a matter of tunning.


GREY SMOKE = Oil Related something or another

The two leading ways oil finds its way into the combustion chamber (injectors aside) are the oil control rings/ seals and the turbo. My turbo is currently blown [compressor seal] and it will smoke more than normal on start up , since everything is coated in oil. It will also smoke if I go into boost, but those are the only times it smokes. If the car is smoking all the time I'd suspect something more sinister and expensive.


And if the car is already running when you arrive, just come back another day.

 

Shoot, when I smell like a lawn mower after driving, I just feel bad for those behind me.