boost my fc?!
zero pistons
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if your 100% serious about turning a 6 port into a turbo start reading here
The (Almost) Complete Guide To Turbocharging The Naturally Aspirated Second Generation RX-7
The (Almost) Complete Guide To Turbocharging The Naturally Aspirated Second Generation RX-7
eats babies
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've done a complete TurboII setup in my old vert, making it essentially a "TurboII convertible".
I bought:
s4 13bt engine/tranny
13bt emissions harness
13bt (n318 ) pressure sensor
13bt afm (n318 )
13bt ecu (n332)
13bt knock box
turboII rear end
turboII half-shafts
turboII driveshaft
You take all of that stuff and install it into your n/a FC. The engine and tranny swap is simple as pie. Everything plugs together into your main body harness fine. You simply install the n332 ecu, plug in the knock box, rig up the pressure sensor in place of the old n/a boost sensor install the n318 afm and your good to go. There is ONE wire you have to re-wire, it is so you can use your stock temp gauge. You don't even have to rewire it if you are using an aftermarket temp gauge. Installing the rear end is the hardest part in my opinion (buy all new mounts while its out). I did all of this in my driveway... by myself without air tools, everysingle step of it was done by my own two hands and no dirty "african engineering" mechanic touched it.
Errr, it cost me just about $3200 when everything was done. That includes an FD torsen lsd, front mount intercooler, hks sqv bov, exhaust, hks foam filter, s5 tails (yeah it's not part of the swap but they look nice)
I bought:
s4 13bt engine/tranny
13bt emissions harness
13bt (n318 ) pressure sensor
13bt afm (n318 )
13bt ecu (n332)
13bt knock box
turboII rear end
turboII half-shafts
turboII driveshaft
You take all of that stuff and install it into your n/a FC. The engine and tranny swap is simple as pie. Everything plugs together into your main body harness fine. You simply install the n332 ecu, plug in the knock box, rig up the pressure sensor in place of the old n/a boost sensor install the n318 afm and your good to go. There is ONE wire you have to re-wire, it is so you can use your stock temp gauge. You don't even have to rewire it if you are using an aftermarket temp gauge. Installing the rear end is the hardest part in my opinion (buy all new mounts while its out). I did all of this in my driveway... by myself without air tools, everysingle step of it was done by my own two hands and no dirty "african engineering" mechanic touched it.
Errr, it cost me just about $3200 when everything was done. That includes an FD torsen lsd, front mount intercooler, hks sqv bov, exhaust, hks foam filter, s5 tails (yeah it's not part of the swap but they look nice)
Last edited by FC3Cturbo; 12-12-2006 at 01:58 PM.
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmm. looks like my best bet is to swap it out with a t2. rotary buddha that info was very helpful.. ican do alot of the work but ill be riskin too much.. i think im better off with a t2..
now will the t2 and n/a motor mounts line up or will i have to do some major modifications..?
now will the t2 and n/a motor mounts line up or will i have to do some major modifications..?
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
did all that in ur drive way.. not bad. so i guessing the motor mounts do match up. i guess my next question would be should i go s4 or s5? i kno theres a little hp diffrence but is there much of a diffrence other than that?
eats babies
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the 13bt mounts up exactly like the n/a. pics are in my gallery of my old baby so you know I'm not blowing smoke.
Stay with the model of your car. Like if you have an s4, get an s4 engine ect. It makes it alot easier.
Stay with the model of your car. Like if you have an s4, get an s4 engine ect. It makes it alot easier.
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea man looks like a clean swap.. yea i have an s5 so i guess ill be goin s5 for my car so now im goin to calculate wat its all gunna cost me to do the sawp, buy all the shit, grab a couple of puerto ricans, some beers.. and get to work. thanx for everyones help i should be askin for more help after im not sure about somthin. hopfully i can start in a month if everything goes well..
zero pistons
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also like FC3Cturbo posted, make sure that all your sensors go with your series motor. n374 is the code for s5 jspec turbo models.
series 4 compression 8.5:1
182 hp 183 tq
series 5 compression 9.0:1
200 hp 196 tq
the turbos them self are different as well. the series 4 used a twin scroll actuator that would be closed in the lower rpm to help boost and would open when in the higher rpms.
also the rear ends are different types of LSD. the series 4 is a clutch type and the series 5 is a vicious type. they both have the same bolt pattern for the driveshaft and halfshafts so that doesnt matter.
also get on rx7club and start searching. their are tons of people that have done the swap and dont just post asking the question search or you will get flamed.
series 4 compression 8.5:1
182 hp 183 tq
series 5 compression 9.0:1
200 hp 196 tq
the turbos them self are different as well. the series 4 used a twin scroll actuator that would be closed in the lower rpm to help boost and would open when in the higher rpms.
also the rear ends are different types of LSD. the series 4 is a clutch type and the series 5 is a vicious type. they both have the same bolt pattern for the driveshaft and halfshafts so that doesnt matter.
also get on rx7club and start searching. their are tons of people that have done the swap and dont just post asking the question search or you will get flamed.
