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RX8 Rotors in 13b

Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FC3Cturbo
There is NO BENEFIT FROM USING Rx8 rotors. I have contacted Mazda racing usa about these and they said that they switched the s5 rotors from their n/a FC race car with rx8 ones and it had ended up with less trq, and less horsepower.

If you bevel the rotors, you would have to bevel the counterweight. It is not a good idea at all to the cut the rotors.

Rotary7~You can have 200hp on an s4 6port with a streetport with no problems at all. But you HAVE to switch out the n/a ecu (or go carb'd which I prefer) but that is what makes breaking 200hp on a 6port nearly impossible. You need something that controls spark AND fuel or you WILL NOT break 200rwhp. What I have seen in my days, using the stock ecu with everything portmatched with a SP, safc, you will hit 190rwhp.
Heres how you control spark and fuel when converting to carb from FI 6 port.


12A electronic distribitor. 81-85 with the coils
FPR to cut it down to about 5-7 psi.



Originally Posted by CrypticApathy
why ask him was he the previous owner or something? I just wanna know who im asking a question to is all. Im sure theres a few NA 200+RWHP. therse a guy that hits 195RWHP on nopistons on a na 6port.
Does he show a dyno sheet,and set up?Thats yoru best bet to get info from.
I personally think you should stay away from the bridge port.
I dont think theres much gain over street port,and to many headaches.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:26 PM
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You'll be able to get more power also by closing the gap between the leading and trailing plugs firing. Can you do this with the 12A electronic distributor?
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1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
134.7 RWHP - Going slow in style
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CrypticApathy
why ask him was he the previous owner or something? I just wanna know who im asking a question to is all. Im sure theres a few NA 200+RWHP. therse a guy that hits 195RWHP on nopistons on a na 6port.
that was me bwahaha!!!



lol j/k but ill tell you now. im close and on stock port with close to 200k miles. my fucking clutch isnt letting me get there but that will be fixed this next saturday.

and there are still a couple things i could do to get more HP but that would just kill my gas mileage.


now as far as those damn rx8 rotors. i wouldnt bother. so much work into trying to work them with you 13b housings just to get the same or less horsepower as you would with an n/a S5???? fuck that. there are way more easier ways to get more HP.

oh n by the way. didnt we already have this stupid argument a while back??
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Originally Posted by jonBODON
that guy has more skill in his left pinky toe then your whole body...
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AbortRetryFail
You'll be able to get more power also by closing the gap between the leading and trailing plugs firing. Can you do this with the 12A electronic distributor?
We do have ways to advance/retard, leading and trailing from the distribitor


Originally Posted by rexaholic7

lol j/k but ill tell you now. im close and on stock port with close to 200k miles. my fucking clutch isnt letting me get there but that will be fixed this next saturday.

and there are still a couple things i could do to get more HP but that would just kill my gas mileage.

oh n by the way. didnt we already have this stupid argument a while back??


Your car STOCK at the flywheel was 146,do you know much more power you loose taking the HP rating at the wheels?

Theres NO way in hell your at 200.A stock TII is not even 200.
If you are confident you are at 200,hell ill give you 190+.
Take it to a dyno,Ill pay for it if its 190+ if its under,you go home with your correct HP raiting.

Have you even ran your car in the 1/4?You can get in idea,of HP.
I know how good my other first gen did in the 1/4,and I was not near 200 RWHP,on stock ports.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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Yes here is the 195 dyno chart. This is the link for it LINK
They used pliers but he said he is installing something to make it hit 200ish. So its probally about what 250 at the engine?

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Driving definitions: Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

Last edited by CrypticApathy; Jan 17, 2006 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 12:56 AM
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^^^ The link doesnt work for me,and the (pic?) you posted is a red x.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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dunno what to tell you , i see the pic anyone else having trouble with it?
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Driving definitions: Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and Torque is how far you take the wall with you.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Rotary7
We do have ways to advance/retard, leading and trailing from the distribitor...
Seperately? Do you have to swap out caps or something?
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1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Yes you can control them seperately,and what do you mean swap out the cap?
Theres only 1 distribitor cap.
From what I remember,theres shouldnt be more than a 12 degree diffrence
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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How do you adjust leading and trailing timing separately with just 1 distributor?
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1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
134.7 RWHP - Going slow in style
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