Turbo Conversion
BTW,
Where are you tring to get at on your car?
I dont think you want to drag race it,or drift it.. No need to beat up on a clean car.
Keep the 6 port and if you want to rebuild it,port it.. but dont expect a huge HP diffrence.You might want to save the headache.. Just talk to any turbo swapped FC owner.
Where are you tring to get at on your car?
I dont think you want to drag race it,or drift it.. No need to beat up on a clean car.
Keep the 6 port and if you want to rebuild it,port it.. but dont expect a huge HP diffrence.You might want to save the headache.. Just talk to any turbo swapped FC owner.
I paid $2200 for two 13bts/ trannys shipped to my door (ones collecting dust for another project
) It'd be $1100 for you from japanstarmotor.
You can EASILY do the motor swap in a day or two, the rear end swap is harder than the whole motor swap in my opinion.
What I got for my swap was (keep in mind mine is an s4)
TII pressure sensor
TII afm
FD fuel pump
TII engine harness
TII ecu
TII knock box
TII driveshaft
"" halfshafts
"" rearend
Had to relocate the TMIC into the front for reasons of not wanting a TII hood scoop. It is a very very easy swap, I have done an sr20 240 swap before and it seemed harder. I have atleast $2800 into the swap on my vert, that is with aftermarket parts (torsen lsd, hks sqv, 680cc's, mazdaspeed clutch, intake, exhaust, 12lb. flywheel, racingbeat MBC)
I have a vert ecu (n338 it is compadible between turbo motors and non-turbo ones, I'd sell it to you for $50, no fuel cut on it.I've hit 11psi with it and no problems what so ever.
) It'd be $1100 for you from japanstarmotor.You can EASILY do the motor swap in a day or two, the rear end swap is harder than the whole motor swap in my opinion.
What I got for my swap was (keep in mind mine is an s4)
TII pressure sensor
TII afm
FD fuel pump
TII engine harness
TII ecu
TII knock box
TII driveshaft
"" halfshafts
"" rearend
Had to relocate the TMIC into the front for reasons of not wanting a TII hood scoop. It is a very very easy swap, I have done an sr20 240 swap before and it seemed harder. I have atleast $2800 into the swap on my vert, that is with aftermarket parts (torsen lsd, hks sqv, 680cc's, mazdaspeed clutch, intake, exhaust, 12lb. flywheel, racingbeat MBC)
I have a vert ecu (n338 it is compadible between turbo motors and non-turbo ones, I'd sell it to you for $50, no fuel cut on it.I've hit 11psi with it and no problems what so ever.
Last edited by FC3Cturbo; Dec 6, 2005 at 06:47 AM.
Keep in mind that I am just planning, if I have enough money by the summer. I want a daily driven with just simple mods to keep it reliable and fun to drive at the same time.
My car is 4 piston caliper. If the swap is to be done I will start buying parts around May little by little. One question how much insurance is for a turbo car? For now I will do suspension mods. I want to get my car lowered.
My car is 4 piston caliper. If the swap is to be done I will start buying parts around May little by little. One question how much insurance is for a turbo car? For now I will do suspension mods. I want to get my car lowered.
It will still be an NA as long as you don't tell the insurance company. My car is 178/month with lowest coverage possible *still a stock vert
, I'm almost 20 and thats under my own plan. My mods are about as simple as you can get, I have my car set to 10psi and it fully boosts by 3600-3700ish but pulls very hard. You really DO NOT need a turbo rear end and halfshafts if you don't want 300hp+. A 99' miata lsd would be nice and mazdatrix.com sells a "turbo transmission to non-turbo rear end" driveshaft.
As much as I think 6 port engines are worthless peice of shits.You car is to clean to tear up..If yoru really planning on doing this,but a beater car/buy tools/prepare to rent a plce to do the swap,and try to locate parts NOW.
Dont wait till the lat minute,you will be in over your head.Dont plan on tring to get all this done in a few days..Thats why I sugguest another beater.
The insurance company do nto go by what you have done to your car,but what the stock vins says it has.. Im not sure if you can full coverage a FC,but keep all reciets.
Dont wait till the lat minute,you will be in over your head.Dont plan on tring to get all this done in a few days..Thats why I sugguest another beater.
The insurance company do nto go by what you have done to your car,but what the stock vins says it has.. Im not sure if you can full coverage a FC,but keep all reciets.
Originally Posted by FC3Cturbo
It will still be an NA as long as you don't tell the insurance company. My car is 178/month with lowest coverage possible *still a stock vert
, I'm almost 20 and thats under my own plan. My mods are about as simple as you can get, I have my car set to 10psi and it fully boosts by 3600-3700ish but pulls very hard. You really DO NOT need a turbo rear end and halfshafts if you don't want 300hp+. A 99' miata lsd would be nice and mazdatrix.com sells a "turbo transmission to non-turbo rear end" driveshaft.
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1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
134.7 RWHP - Going slow in style

1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
134.7 RWHP - Going slow in style
Originally Posted by Mongoose
Or I could save some money and then buy a Turbo II, but they are hard to find. I think it might be better to buy a Turbo II.
I was lookin for a car for one of my friends,I saw a FD for 12k,and a few Turbo IIs.But it has been a few weeks since I looked,hes now dumping money back into his bike.
I would not buy a TII from a kid, teen, or someone in their mid 20's. Do a compression test and a coolant pressure test while you are looking at one. But if you don't have a garage to do it in then I would just save for a TII.
I cheked autotrader, they have some nice ones but the prices are $5,000 and above for s4 turbos. I liked one that is sold in Winterheaven is a 1988 TII red real nice but the price is $5000. He said he has it repainted and rebuild, but he took of the TII hood and put some crappy TII hood wannabe.



