Important information for new Mazdaspeed Protege Owners.
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Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
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Important information for new Mazdaspeed Protege Owners.
Source: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50549
HUGE thanks to the members here who I have obtained this information from.
Also, Thanks to TheMAN and his Protege FAQ for the Technical Service Bulletins.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ATTENTION: THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS NOT OFFICIAL IN ANY WAY, SHAPE, OR FORM. IT IS MERELY A COLLECTION OF COMMON PROBLEMS EXPERIENCED BY THE MEMBERS OF THIS BOARD. YOUR DEALERSHIP HAS THE MOST ACCURATE AND UP-TO-DATE INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR CAR AND IS MORE THAN LIKELY CORRECT IF THEY ARE GOING AGAINST SOMETHING WRITTEN IN THIS THREAD. DO NOT GIVE YOUR DEALERSHIP A HARD TIME IF THEY ARE REFUSING SOMETHING JUST BECAUSE YOU SAW IT HERE OR AT ANOTHER FORUM. TAKE THE ADVICE BELOW WITH A GRAIN OF SALT AND USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT AND THAT OF YOUR DEALERSHIP'S SERVICE ADVISORS' WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR VEHICLE'S SPECIFIC NEEDS OR PROBLEMS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Engine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Hesitation.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: A few of the members here like to occasionally "smash gas" from time to time. If you've ever done that and noticed that while at full throttle the car seems to bog down like it won't go any faster, then you've just experienced hesitation.
Why: Basically, what happens is that when you hit wide open throttle, the ECU switches to an open loop and dumps a HUGE amount of fuel in the mix. The car basically becomes overly rich and "floods" itself. As another member stated: "It is hard to notice an engine that is running lean to a certain point, mostly because it feels very powerful for the most part. Rich mixtures cause the poor drivability and hesitation. When the ECU switches modes it is going from lean to rich basically, which will make that hesitating feel..."
How To Fix: If the hesitation bothers you to the point where you want to drive your MSP off of a cliff, stop by your dealership before you do so. Mazda has released a flash which "cures" this condition. A flash is just a reprogramming of the car's computer and is available for FREE at Mazda dealerships. What it does is advance the timing to a point where the car leans out a bit more and gets rid of the too overly rich condition. Keep in mind that if you plan on adding a boost controller to your car, advanced timing is a bad thing and could lead to knock or detonation. Please think about your future plans before proceeding with the flash. It is *NOT* reversible unless you find another unflashed Mazdaspeed owner who is willing to trade ECU's with you. That is very hard to do, however. Mazda's official Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) is shown directly below:
TSB:
Code:
MAZDASPEED PROTEGE - HESITATION UNDER ACCELERATION
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Hesitation and/or intermittent stumble under acceleration. All Mazdaspeed
Protege PCM's should be reprogramed using the following procedure.
Repair Procedure
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Using WDS B27.4 or later software, reprogram the PCM to the latest
calibration (refer to "Calibration Information" table) by following the
"Module Reprogramming" procedure.
NOTE:
* Always update the WDS PTU first, then install the needed calibration
file that the WDS shows during PCM reprogramming. Go to "WDS
Calibration" on ESI and download the "update" file. If the PTU is not
updated to the latest WDS calibration level, the calibration file will not
install into the PTU.
* It is not necessary to remove any fuses or relays during PCM
reprogramming when the WDS screen prompts you to do so. You may
accidentally stop power to one of the PCM terminals and cause the PCM to
be blanked, or you may receive error messages during the WDS
reprogramming procedure.
* WDS shows the calibration part numbers after programming the PCM.
* Please be aware that PCM calibration part numbers and file names listed
in any RI/Service Bulletin may change due to future releases of WDS
software, and additional revisions made to those calibrations for service
related concerns.
* When reprogramming a PCM, WDS will always display the "latest"
calibration P/N available for that vehicle. If any calibration has been
revised/updated to contain new information for a new service
concern/issue, it will also contain all previously released calibrations.
* When performing this procedure, if the WDS PTU is not docked and
connected to 115V-120V, we recommend that a battery charger be
installed on the vehicle battery and turned ON to a maximum charge of
no more than 20 AMPS to keep the vehicle battery up to capacity. If
you exceed 20 AMPS, it will damage the WDS PTU.
5. Place an "Authorized Modification" label (P/N 9999-95-AMDC-97) with the
new calibration information near the Emission Control Information label
located on the hood or in the engine compartment.
4. Verify repair.
NOTE: After reprogramming a PCM, it is necessary to road test the vehicle
to relearn KAM (Keep Alive Memory) strategy and verify no MIL
illumination or DTC's are present.
CALIBRATION INFORMATION
NEW PCM CAL. P/N FILENAME
3ALU-12A650-MC QOAP4C0
Copyright © Mazda North American OperationsThere's a list of more ECU information, including a list of notified dealerships, that may be found here.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Coolant Leaks.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Checking under the hood, you may see a white residue on some of the stock piping or down on the brush guard under the car. If you do see this, that's coolant and it's leaking from somewhere. Check out the pipes and see if you can find the leak.
Why: Because Mazda loves us.
How To Fix: Return to dealer and show them where the leak appears to be. This will be covered under warranty in most conditions.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Broken Intercooler Pipe.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If your car sparatically idles or dies after boosting, you may have broken the intercooler to BPV pipe joint.
Why: Mazda used plastic piping for whatever reason it was but in the process, they decided it would be okay to glue the joints together instead of mold them. The stress of boost may cause the joints to break causing a massive vaccuum leak.
How To Fix: Return to dealer. Unless you've blatantly abused the car, most will fix without asking questions.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Airbox Duct Falls Off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Notice anything missing when it comes to your airbox? That small "L" shaped elbow may have come off during driving.
Why: That elbow is not attached to the airbox in any way and several members have reported losing it.
How To Fix: Duct tape, baybee!@# Actually, your dealership cannot do much about this one. They may replace it if you lose it but it's just going to fall off again unless it's secured.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Exhaust Comes Apart.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: While driving or idling, if your exhaust tone gets a bit louder or if it starts resonating in the cabin, your exhaust may be coming apart.
Why: As this has happened to just a few members, we really don't know for sure. This could be a combination of extreme heat and bad welding or just bad research and design.
How To Fix: If this happens, first check between at the weld between the primary and secondary cat to see if you exhaust did, infact, fall apart. This most likely will leave you stranded but should be covered under warranty.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Brittle Hoses.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What:
There seems to be an issue with the wastegate/bypass valve hoses on some MSPs where they are very dry and brittle and may crack causing a vaccuum leak.
Why: Mazda used fuel hose for the majority of the tubing which means it's very brittle. Add this plus the underhood temps and you'll understand why they may crack.
How To Fix: Return to dealership and have them replaced with bulk silicone type hose.
HUGE thanks to the members here who I have obtained this information from.
Also, Thanks to TheMAN and his Protege FAQ for the Technical Service Bulletins.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ATTENTION: THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS NOT OFFICIAL IN ANY WAY, SHAPE, OR FORM. IT IS MERELY A COLLECTION OF COMMON PROBLEMS EXPERIENCED BY THE MEMBERS OF THIS BOARD. YOUR DEALERSHIP HAS THE MOST ACCURATE AND UP-TO-DATE INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR CAR AND IS MORE THAN LIKELY CORRECT IF THEY ARE GOING AGAINST SOMETHING WRITTEN IN THIS THREAD. DO NOT GIVE YOUR DEALERSHIP A HARD TIME IF THEY ARE REFUSING SOMETHING JUST BECAUSE YOU SAW IT HERE OR AT ANOTHER FORUM. TAKE THE ADVICE BELOW WITH A GRAIN OF SALT AND USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT AND THAT OF YOUR DEALERSHIP'S SERVICE ADVISORS' WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR VEHICLE'S SPECIFIC NEEDS OR PROBLEMS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Engine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Hesitation.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: A few of the members here like to occasionally "smash gas" from time to time. If you've ever done that and noticed that while at full throttle the car seems to bog down like it won't go any faster, then you've just experienced hesitation.
Why: Basically, what happens is that when you hit wide open throttle, the ECU switches to an open loop and dumps a HUGE amount of fuel in the mix. The car basically becomes overly rich and "floods" itself. As another member stated: "It is hard to notice an engine that is running lean to a certain point, mostly because it feels very powerful for the most part. Rich mixtures cause the poor drivability and hesitation. When the ECU switches modes it is going from lean to rich basically, which will make that hesitating feel..."
How To Fix: If the hesitation bothers you to the point where you want to drive your MSP off of a cliff, stop by your dealership before you do so. Mazda has released a flash which "cures" this condition. A flash is just a reprogramming of the car's computer and is available for FREE at Mazda dealerships. What it does is advance the timing to a point where the car leans out a bit more and gets rid of the too overly rich condition. Keep in mind that if you plan on adding a boost controller to your car, advanced timing is a bad thing and could lead to knock or detonation. Please think about your future plans before proceeding with the flash. It is *NOT* reversible unless you find another unflashed Mazdaspeed owner who is willing to trade ECU's with you. That is very hard to do, however. Mazda's official Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) is shown directly below:
TSB:
Code:
MAZDASPEED PROTEGE - HESITATION UNDER ACCELERATION
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Hesitation and/or intermittent stumble under acceleration. All Mazdaspeed
Protege PCM's should be reprogramed using the following procedure.
Repair Procedure
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Using WDS B27.4 or later software, reprogram the PCM to the latest
calibration (refer to "Calibration Information" table) by following the
"Module Reprogramming" procedure.
NOTE:
* Always update the WDS PTU first, then install the needed calibration
file that the WDS shows during PCM reprogramming. Go to "WDS
Calibration" on ESI and download the "update" file. If the PTU is not
updated to the latest WDS calibration level, the calibration file will not
install into the PTU.
* It is not necessary to remove any fuses or relays during PCM
reprogramming when the WDS screen prompts you to do so. You may
accidentally stop power to one of the PCM terminals and cause the PCM to
be blanked, or you may receive error messages during the WDS
reprogramming procedure.
* WDS shows the calibration part numbers after programming the PCM.
* Please be aware that PCM calibration part numbers and file names listed
in any RI/Service Bulletin may change due to future releases of WDS
software, and additional revisions made to those calibrations for service
related concerns.
* When reprogramming a PCM, WDS will always display the "latest"
calibration P/N available for that vehicle. If any calibration has been
revised/updated to contain new information for a new service
concern/issue, it will also contain all previously released calibrations.
* When performing this procedure, if the WDS PTU is not docked and
connected to 115V-120V, we recommend that a battery charger be
installed on the vehicle battery and turned ON to a maximum charge of
no more than 20 AMPS to keep the vehicle battery up to capacity. If
you exceed 20 AMPS, it will damage the WDS PTU.
5. Place an "Authorized Modification" label (P/N 9999-95-AMDC-97) with the
new calibration information near the Emission Control Information label
located on the hood or in the engine compartment.
4. Verify repair.
NOTE: After reprogramming a PCM, it is necessary to road test the vehicle
to relearn KAM (Keep Alive Memory) strategy and verify no MIL
illumination or DTC's are present.
CALIBRATION INFORMATION
NEW PCM CAL. P/N FILENAME
3ALU-12A650-MC QOAP4C0
Copyright © Mazda North American OperationsThere's a list of more ECU information, including a list of notified dealerships, that may be found here.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Coolant Leaks.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Checking under the hood, you may see a white residue on some of the stock piping or down on the brush guard under the car. If you do see this, that's coolant and it's leaking from somewhere. Check out the pipes and see if you can find the leak.
Why: Because Mazda loves us.
How To Fix: Return to dealer and show them where the leak appears to be. This will be covered under warranty in most conditions.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Broken Intercooler Pipe.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If your car sparatically idles or dies after boosting, you may have broken the intercooler to BPV pipe joint.
Why: Mazda used plastic piping for whatever reason it was but in the process, they decided it would be okay to glue the joints together instead of mold them. The stress of boost may cause the joints to break causing a massive vaccuum leak.
How To Fix: Return to dealer. Unless you've blatantly abused the car, most will fix without asking questions.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Airbox Duct Falls Off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Notice anything missing when it comes to your airbox? That small "L" shaped elbow may have come off during driving.
Why: That elbow is not attached to the airbox in any way and several members have reported losing it.
How To Fix: Duct tape, baybee!@# Actually, your dealership cannot do much about this one. They may replace it if you lose it but it's just going to fall off again unless it's secured.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Exhaust Comes Apart.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: While driving or idling, if your exhaust tone gets a bit louder or if it starts resonating in the cabin, your exhaust may be coming apart.
Why: As this has happened to just a few members, we really don't know for sure. This could be a combination of extreme heat and bad welding or just bad research and design.
How To Fix: If this happens, first check between at the weld between the primary and secondary cat to see if you exhaust did, infact, fall apart. This most likely will leave you stranded but should be covered under warranty.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Brittle Hoses.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What:
There seems to be an issue with the wastegate/bypass valve hoses on some MSPs where they are very dry and brittle and may crack causing a vaccuum leak.
Why: Mazda used fuel hose for the majority of the tubing which means it's very brittle. Add this plus the underhood temps and you'll understand why they may crack.
How To Fix: Return to dealership and have them replaced with bulk silicone type hose.
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:32 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Mazdaspeed protege Aftermarket Part's Guide
Source: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31763
MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET
This is an attempt to bring information about the available aftermarket parts for the Mazdaspeed Protege together in one place. Items specific to our model of car (cold air intake, turbo-back exhaust, etc.) will have links to their respective web page. Generic items (boost controllers, turbo timers, etc.) may or may not; please do your own research when purchasing these products, as they are available from many different retailers. This list will be updated as new parts become available. If you know of an item that is not listed, send me a PM with the info. I'll add the part and give you credit for the find. Vendors will not be listed in the "Other Contributors" section.
DISCLAIMER: All information presented here is expressed with absolutely no guarantees on price, performance, or safety. Use this information at your own risk to help you in your research for MSP modifications. I do not accept any responsibility for your actions or the results of such actions.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Visit www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8123 and www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8124 for information about warranty issues. Basically, your warranty cannot be voided simply for having aftermarket parts. It has to be proven that the specific part caused the damages.
TURBO TIMERS
In a turbocharged car, after a long or hard drive, you're supposed to let the engine idle for a while before turning off the car. This will prevent damage to the turbocharger by letting it cool properly. The Mazdaspeed manual recommends you idle for 30 seconds. A Turbo Timer will keep your engine running for the proper time after you remove the key from the ignition. There is a theft protection feature built in to most turbo timers, so you don't have to worry about getting your ride stolen.
The Blitz Dual TT combines a turbo timer and boost gauge in one unit. The boost gauge reads in bars, not psi. All the other brands (HKS, Apexi, etc.) are very similar, and you should research them to pick the best one for you.
GAUGES AND PODS
You need a boost gauge before you get a boost controller! The Autometer ProComp Ultra-Lite series matches the stock gauges pretty well (day and night), and are very reasonably priced. MSP owners have also been seen with Defi and GReddy gauges, which are more expensive, but more accurate, than the Autometers.
Even though the gauge pods listed below are for 52mm gauges, people have had success using a Dremel or similar tool to cut out a hole for 60mm gauges. Paint for the pillar pods (very close match to stock) is available at: http://vinylpro.safeshopper.com/29/254.htm?893
Full A-Pillar Pod (two 2"/52mm gauge openings): www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22656), $56.99
Full A-Pillar Pod (three 2"/52mm gauge openings): www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22657), $58.99
Steering Wheel Pod (one 2"/52mm gauge opening): www.protege5online.com, $75.00
BOOST CONTROLLERS
The MSP runs at ~6.5 psi, but has been shown to vary greatly from car to car. A Boost Controller allows you to increase the boost level, thus increasing your performance. There are two main categories: MBC's (Manual boost controller) and EBC's (Electronic boost controller). MBC's are much cheaper, but require you to go under the hood to change your boost setting. Also, getting the boost where you want to takes some tuning (mainly running through 3rd gear, watching the boost gauge carefully). EBC's allow you to change the boost level more easily, and from inside your car. Some even have multiple settings, so you could have one setting for day-to-day driving, and another one with higher boost for the track.
What boost should you run? What has been accepted by most members of the board as 'safe' for daily driving? These are questions that you need to research yourself. Upping the boost too much, or without other mods (like colder spark plugs) will cause irreversable damage to your motor. To start out, try 9psi; this is for both flashed and unflashed ECU's. There is an airflow based fuel/spark cut (when the MAF gets maxed out), and members boosting over 9psi (or over 8psi in cold weather) are hitting it. A Fuel Cut Defenser gets around this limitation.
JoeP XZ MBC: This is the MBC that most members have. It's made by a guy named Joe Pampena (his member name here is kwiktsi), costs $45, and is easy to install/uninstall. An optional electronic controller gives you in-cabin control over boost. Available from www.joepmbc.com.
Turbo XS MBC: Similar to the JoeP. $79
Turbo XS High Performance MBC: Claims to make your turbo spool quicker. $129
Turbo XS Dual Stage MBC: Allows in-cabin switching between two boost levels (normally only found on EBC's). $239
JoeP FCD (Fuel Cut Defenser): Fully adjustable for your needs, if you're boosting over 9 psi you're going to need it, especially in the winter. $60.00 from www.joepmbc.com.
EBC's are similar to the Turbo Timers, where each brand has different features that you need to research yourself. They all do the same thing. The Greddy Profec B seems to
be one of the most popular models, and it's pretty reasonably priced at around $330.
FUEL SYSTEM
The MSP runs insanely rich. Take a look at a dyno chart with an air/fuel mixture graph, or even easier, look at the carbon deposits on your exhaust tip. This overly rich fuel mixture is the main cause of the 'hesitation' that MSP owners have complained about. The ECU flash advances the timing to overcome this, but the fuel mixture is still too rich.
JoeP FPR (Fuel Pressure Reducer): Has eliminated or reduced the hesitation problem for many members. Mainly for unflashed MSP owners, but people have used it on flashed ECU's with no problems so far. $25.00
SPARK PLUGS
Stock MSP spark plugs are platinum NGK PZFR6F's. Colder, copper spark plugs would be a wise investment if you're upping the boost in your MSP. Detonation (Pre-ignition, where the air/fuel mix in the cylinder burns before being lit by the spark plug) WILL cause damage to the motor. Why copper? Platinum plugs have a sharp tip and don't conduct enough heat away to prevent detonation at boost levels higher than stock. A copper spark plug has a wider tip that conducts heat much better, and may prevent you from messing up your motor. The factory spark plug gap is 0.028" - 0.032".
Copper NGK BKR7E's (#6097) are cheap (around $2 each) and work well for our car. They are one heat range colder, and are bare copper plugs. You can have your local auto parts store (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.) special order them for you, or get them from http://sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3040 or http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ighlight=NGK+11
ENGINE PARTS
Urethane engine mounts: Greatly reduces wheel hop, and driveline thrash when shifting. Be warned that the car will vibrate a LOT with both front and rear mounts replaced. Some people have replaced the front mount only, and have found it's a good trade-off. http://www.protege5online.com/For_S...ge/AWR/awr.html $127.00
TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH PARTS
Kartboy Shifter Bushings: Reduces play in the shifter. http://www.kartboy.com/powertrain.html $25.00
GM Syncromesh Manual Transmission Fluid: It's a much better fluid than what's in the MSP tranny. It'll make shifting easier, and less notchy. Available at your local GM dealer. Some people say the Pennzoil Syncromesh is the same stuff, and it's available at most auto parts stores.
ACT Clutch: A higher-performance clutch than what's stock, and it'll handle more power. Get the street disc, not the 4-puck or 6-puck, unless all you do is race your MSP. Available from www.propartsusa.com with a special price of $312 plus $25 shipping for members of the forum.
MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET
This is an attempt to bring information about the available aftermarket parts for the Mazdaspeed Protege together in one place. Items specific to our model of car (cold air intake, turbo-back exhaust, etc.) will have links to their respective web page. Generic items (boost controllers, turbo timers, etc.) may or may not; please do your own research when purchasing these products, as they are available from many different retailers. This list will be updated as new parts become available. If you know of an item that is not listed, send me a PM with the info. I'll add the part and give you credit for the find. Vendors will not be listed in the "Other Contributors" section.
DISCLAIMER: All information presented here is expressed with absolutely no guarantees on price, performance, or safety. Use this information at your own risk to help you in your research for MSP modifications. I do not accept any responsibility for your actions or the results of such actions.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Visit www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8123 and www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8124 for information about warranty issues. Basically, your warranty cannot be voided simply for having aftermarket parts. It has to be proven that the specific part caused the damages.
TURBO TIMERS
In a turbocharged car, after a long or hard drive, you're supposed to let the engine idle for a while before turning off the car. This will prevent damage to the turbocharger by letting it cool properly. The Mazdaspeed manual recommends you idle for 30 seconds. A Turbo Timer will keep your engine running for the proper time after you remove the key from the ignition. There is a theft protection feature built in to most turbo timers, so you don't have to worry about getting your ride stolen.
The Blitz Dual TT combines a turbo timer and boost gauge in one unit. The boost gauge reads in bars, not psi. All the other brands (HKS, Apexi, etc.) are very similar, and you should research them to pick the best one for you.
GAUGES AND PODS
You need a boost gauge before you get a boost controller! The Autometer ProComp Ultra-Lite series matches the stock gauges pretty well (day and night), and are very reasonably priced. MSP owners have also been seen with Defi and GReddy gauges, which are more expensive, but more accurate, than the Autometers.
Even though the gauge pods listed below are for 52mm gauges, people have had success using a Dremel or similar tool to cut out a hole for 60mm gauges. Paint for the pillar pods (very close match to stock) is available at: http://vinylpro.safeshopper.com/29/254.htm?893
Full A-Pillar Pod (two 2"/52mm gauge openings): www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22656), $56.99
Full A-Pillar Pod (three 2"/52mm gauge openings): www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22657), $58.99
Steering Wheel Pod (one 2"/52mm gauge opening): www.protege5online.com, $75.00
BOOST CONTROLLERS
The MSP runs at ~6.5 psi, but has been shown to vary greatly from car to car. A Boost Controller allows you to increase the boost level, thus increasing your performance. There are two main categories: MBC's (Manual boost controller) and EBC's (Electronic boost controller). MBC's are much cheaper, but require you to go under the hood to change your boost setting. Also, getting the boost where you want to takes some tuning (mainly running through 3rd gear, watching the boost gauge carefully). EBC's allow you to change the boost level more easily, and from inside your car. Some even have multiple settings, so you could have one setting for day-to-day driving, and another one with higher boost for the track.
What boost should you run? What has been accepted by most members of the board as 'safe' for daily driving? These are questions that you need to research yourself. Upping the boost too much, or without other mods (like colder spark plugs) will cause irreversable damage to your motor. To start out, try 9psi; this is for both flashed and unflashed ECU's. There is an airflow based fuel/spark cut (when the MAF gets maxed out), and members boosting over 9psi (or over 8psi in cold weather) are hitting it. A Fuel Cut Defenser gets around this limitation.
JoeP XZ MBC: This is the MBC that most members have. It's made by a guy named Joe Pampena (his member name here is kwiktsi), costs $45, and is easy to install/uninstall. An optional electronic controller gives you in-cabin control over boost. Available from www.joepmbc.com.
Turbo XS MBC: Similar to the JoeP. $79
Turbo XS High Performance MBC: Claims to make your turbo spool quicker. $129
Turbo XS Dual Stage MBC: Allows in-cabin switching between two boost levels (normally only found on EBC's). $239
JoeP FCD (Fuel Cut Defenser): Fully adjustable for your needs, if you're boosting over 9 psi you're going to need it, especially in the winter. $60.00 from www.joepmbc.com.
EBC's are similar to the Turbo Timers, where each brand has different features that you need to research yourself. They all do the same thing. The Greddy Profec B seems to
be one of the most popular models, and it's pretty reasonably priced at around $330.
FUEL SYSTEM
The MSP runs insanely rich. Take a look at a dyno chart with an air/fuel mixture graph, or even easier, look at the carbon deposits on your exhaust tip. This overly rich fuel mixture is the main cause of the 'hesitation' that MSP owners have complained about. The ECU flash advances the timing to overcome this, but the fuel mixture is still too rich.
JoeP FPR (Fuel Pressure Reducer): Has eliminated or reduced the hesitation problem for many members. Mainly for unflashed MSP owners, but people have used it on flashed ECU's with no problems so far. $25.00
SPARK PLUGS
Stock MSP spark plugs are platinum NGK PZFR6F's. Colder, copper spark plugs would be a wise investment if you're upping the boost in your MSP. Detonation (Pre-ignition, where the air/fuel mix in the cylinder burns before being lit by the spark plug) WILL cause damage to the motor. Why copper? Platinum plugs have a sharp tip and don't conduct enough heat away to prevent detonation at boost levels higher than stock. A copper spark plug has a wider tip that conducts heat much better, and may prevent you from messing up your motor. The factory spark plug gap is 0.028" - 0.032".
Copper NGK BKR7E's (#6097) are cheap (around $2 each) and work well for our car. They are one heat range colder, and are bare copper plugs. You can have your local auto parts store (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.) special order them for you, or get them from http://sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3040 or http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ighlight=NGK+11
ENGINE PARTS
Urethane engine mounts: Greatly reduces wheel hop, and driveline thrash when shifting. Be warned that the car will vibrate a LOT with both front and rear mounts replaced. Some people have replaced the front mount only, and have found it's a good trade-off. http://www.protege5online.com/For_S...ge/AWR/awr.html $127.00
TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH PARTS
Kartboy Shifter Bushings: Reduces play in the shifter. http://www.kartboy.com/powertrain.html $25.00
GM Syncromesh Manual Transmission Fluid: It's a much better fluid than what's in the MSP tranny. It'll make shifting easier, and less notchy. Available at your local GM dealer. Some people say the Pennzoil Syncromesh is the same stuff, and it's available at most auto parts stores.
ACT Clutch: A higher-performance clutch than what's stock, and it'll handle more power. Get the street disc, not the 4-puck or 6-puck, unless all you do is race your MSP. Available from www.propartsusa.com with a special price of $312 plus $25 shipping for members of the forum.
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:29 AM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
AIR INTAKE
An upgraded intake allows air to flow more freely to the intake manifold. More air is allowed into the engine, which in theory increases your power. It has been shown that the stock airbox in the MSP is surprisingly adequate, but small gains can be had by upgrading the intake. Plus, a nice intake looks much better than the stock airbox, and will earn you extra points at a show. You're car will be louder, and the gobble from the BPV will be more noticable when an intake is installed.
An upgraded FMIC (Front Mounted Intercooler) will greatly cool the air going into the engine. The turbo generates a lot of heat, and the air coming out of it is hot as well. The intercooler is placed after the turbocharger to cool this hot air down. The stock MSP intercooler is tiny and inefficient, and gets heatsoaked very easily. An upgraded intercooler will help an already modded MSP very much. Gains will also be made with a stock MSP, but an FMIC is a rather costly item and produces larger power gains with an already modified car.
Hardpipes replace the stock (plastic) intercooler pipes with metal.
Injen Cold Air Intake: www.injen.com (Part # RD-6066), $203.22 from www.adventon.com
ION Cold Air Intake: Ph#: 403-615-7269, Email: info@ionperformance.com
ION FMIC: Ph#: 403-615-7269, Email: info@ionperformance.com
ION Hardpipes
h#: 403-615-7269, Email: info@ionperformance.com
K&N Panel Air Filter: Replaces the stock air filter only with a more breathable filter. Does not replace the entire intake. www.jegs.com (Part #599-33-2134)
EXHAUST
The stock exhaust is 2.25", with 2 catalytic converters, and a nasty S-bend.
APEX Downpipe (no catalytic converter): A 2.5" bolt-on downpipe that gets rid of both cats. Includes everything you need, dynoed at 10-12 additional WHP. http://www.apexr1.com/apmado.html $299
APEX Downpipe (1 high-flow cat): A 2.5" bolt-on downpipe with a high-flow cat. http://www.apexr1.com/apmspcaundp.html
APEX Cat-Back exhaust:Either a 2.5" or 3" (add $50) cat-back system with an APEXi N1 muffler. http://www.apexr1.com/apmaprcaexsy.html $550. $50 off for first 10 purchases (group buy offer).
ION Performance: Offers a 3" Downpipe-back and Full Turbo-Back exhaust, as well as a cast equal-length turbo-exhaust manifold. Ph#: 403-615-7269 Email: info@ionperformance.com
Magnaflow Cat-Back exhaust: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/cat-backs/mazda.htm $492.83
Protosport Downpipe:: A 60mm (2.4") bolt-on downpipe w/o cat.
SUSPENSION
(Written by Striker187)
SPRINGS
Eibach Sportline: Approximate Drop - 1.8" F&R; Price: $205
Eibach Pro kit: Approximate Drop - 1.4" F, 1.8" R; Price: $205 www.apexr1.com
H&R Lowering Springs: Approximate Drop - 1.3"; Price: $229 www.spool-turbo.com
Tein S-Tech: Approximate Drop - 1.8" F, 1.5" R; Price: $165 www.apexr1.com
STRUTS
Unknown if these are applicable to the MSP (they are to the regular Protege)
Auto Exe Sport Dampers: Set of 4 - Price: $685
Mazdaspeed Adjustable Struts: Price: $178 ea.
Tokico HP Struts: www.corksport.com
Illumina Struts: www.corksport.com
COILOVERS
Tein SS: $1199 from www.apexr1.com
Ground Control: $369 from www.apexr1.com
JIC-Magic: for type BJFP ('99+) : MSRP - $1920 (I think these will work for the msp)
Skunk2: for P5 ('02+) : MSRP - $514.06 (I think these will work for the msp)
Tokico: HPK Suspension Kit: contact corksport for pricing.
ILK Suspension Kit: contact corksport for pricing. (I think these will work for the msp)
SWAY BARS/BRACES
Listed for regular proteges, I assume are applicable on the msp. All are available from www.corksport.com
Auto Exe Lower Arm Bar: $116
Auto Exe Sway Bar Set: $518
Auto Exe Member Bar Set: $450
Corksport Front Strut Tower Bar: $79
DG Motorsports CF Front Strut Tower Brace: $300
PROTOSPORT MSP-SPECIFIC KITS
Kit#1 (Front Strut Tower Bar): MSRP - $169.99
Kit #2 (Front Lower Subframe Tie Bar and front lower subframe X-brace): MSRP - $269.99
Kit #3 (Rear upper chassis stiffener): MSRP - $399.99
Unknown website for protosport. see this thread for more information: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/sho...highlight=brace
BRAKES
Hawk brake pads (front only): P/N HB219F.610
Wilwood front brake upgrade (with 4-piston calipers):
BODY AND APPEARANCE
CARBON FIBER HOODS
(All available from www.corksport.com)
APC: Price unknown
DG Motorports: $698
DG Motorsport Ram Air Hood: $900
KENWOOD HEAD UNIT ACCESSORIES
Add auxiliary inputs to the Kenwood KDC-MP919 head unit in the Mazdaspeed.
Single input: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZKrUcW...asp?i=113CAC1AX $19.99
Multiple inputs: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A6OURm...sp?i=113KCAS210 $79.99
BEST "BANG FOR THE BUCK" PERFORMANCE
Autometer Ultra-Lite Boost Gauge (20 psi boost/30 in. Hg vacuum): $42.99 from Jegs
Autometer dual gauge pod (full A-pillar): $56.99 from Jegs
Set of 4 NGK BKR7E spark plugs: $8.00
JoeP MBC @ 9 psi: $45.00
Total Cost: Well under $200 with tax+shipping
Gains: From looking at the 1/4 mile times posted by members, you should be be seeing high 14's/low 15's with these mods.
An upgraded intake allows air to flow more freely to the intake manifold. More air is allowed into the engine, which in theory increases your power. It has been shown that the stock airbox in the MSP is surprisingly adequate, but small gains can be had by upgrading the intake. Plus, a nice intake looks much better than the stock airbox, and will earn you extra points at a show. You're car will be louder, and the gobble from the BPV will be more noticable when an intake is installed.
An upgraded FMIC (Front Mounted Intercooler) will greatly cool the air going into the engine. The turbo generates a lot of heat, and the air coming out of it is hot as well. The intercooler is placed after the turbocharger to cool this hot air down. The stock MSP intercooler is tiny and inefficient, and gets heatsoaked very easily. An upgraded intercooler will help an already modded MSP very much. Gains will also be made with a stock MSP, but an FMIC is a rather costly item and produces larger power gains with an already modified car.
Hardpipes replace the stock (plastic) intercooler pipes with metal.
Injen Cold Air Intake: www.injen.com (Part # RD-6066), $203.22 from www.adventon.com
ION Cold Air Intake: Ph#: 403-615-7269, Email: info@ionperformance.com
ION FMIC: Ph#: 403-615-7269, Email: info@ionperformance.com
ION Hardpipes
h#: 403-615-7269, Email: info@ionperformance.comK&N Panel Air Filter: Replaces the stock air filter only with a more breathable filter. Does not replace the entire intake. www.jegs.com (Part #599-33-2134)
EXHAUST
The stock exhaust is 2.25", with 2 catalytic converters, and a nasty S-bend.
APEX Downpipe (no catalytic converter): A 2.5" bolt-on downpipe that gets rid of both cats. Includes everything you need, dynoed at 10-12 additional WHP. http://www.apexr1.com/apmado.html $299
APEX Downpipe (1 high-flow cat): A 2.5" bolt-on downpipe with a high-flow cat. http://www.apexr1.com/apmspcaundp.html
APEX Cat-Back exhaust:Either a 2.5" or 3" (add $50) cat-back system with an APEXi N1 muffler. http://www.apexr1.com/apmaprcaexsy.html $550. $50 off for first 10 purchases (group buy offer).
ION Performance: Offers a 3" Downpipe-back and Full Turbo-Back exhaust, as well as a cast equal-length turbo-exhaust manifold. Ph#: 403-615-7269 Email: info@ionperformance.com
Magnaflow Cat-Back exhaust: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/cat-backs/mazda.htm $492.83
Protosport Downpipe:: A 60mm (2.4") bolt-on downpipe w/o cat.
SUSPENSION
(Written by Striker187)
SPRINGS
Eibach Sportline: Approximate Drop - 1.8" F&R; Price: $205
Eibach Pro kit: Approximate Drop - 1.4" F, 1.8" R; Price: $205 www.apexr1.com
H&R Lowering Springs: Approximate Drop - 1.3"; Price: $229 www.spool-turbo.com
Tein S-Tech: Approximate Drop - 1.8" F, 1.5" R; Price: $165 www.apexr1.com
STRUTS
Unknown if these are applicable to the MSP (they are to the regular Protege)
Auto Exe Sport Dampers: Set of 4 - Price: $685
Mazdaspeed Adjustable Struts: Price: $178 ea.
Tokico HP Struts: www.corksport.com
Illumina Struts: www.corksport.com
COILOVERS
Tein SS: $1199 from www.apexr1.com
Ground Control: $369 from www.apexr1.com
JIC-Magic: for type BJFP ('99+) : MSRP - $1920 (I think these will work for the msp)
Skunk2: for P5 ('02+) : MSRP - $514.06 (I think these will work for the msp)
Tokico: HPK Suspension Kit: contact corksport for pricing.
ILK Suspension Kit: contact corksport for pricing. (I think these will work for the msp)
SWAY BARS/BRACES
Listed for regular proteges, I assume are applicable on the msp. All are available from www.corksport.com
Auto Exe Lower Arm Bar: $116
Auto Exe Sway Bar Set: $518
Auto Exe Member Bar Set: $450
Corksport Front Strut Tower Bar: $79
DG Motorsports CF Front Strut Tower Brace: $300
PROTOSPORT MSP-SPECIFIC KITS
Kit#1 (Front Strut Tower Bar): MSRP - $169.99
Kit #2 (Front Lower Subframe Tie Bar and front lower subframe X-brace): MSRP - $269.99
Kit #3 (Rear upper chassis stiffener): MSRP - $399.99
Unknown website for protosport. see this thread for more information: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb230/sho...highlight=brace
BRAKES
Hawk brake pads (front only): P/N HB219F.610
Wilwood front brake upgrade (with 4-piston calipers):
BODY AND APPEARANCE
CARBON FIBER HOODS
(All available from www.corksport.com)
APC: Price unknown
DG Motorports: $698
DG Motorsport Ram Air Hood: $900
KENWOOD HEAD UNIT ACCESSORIES
Add auxiliary inputs to the Kenwood KDC-MP919 head unit in the Mazdaspeed.
Single input: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZKrUcW...asp?i=113CAC1AX $19.99
Multiple inputs: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A6OURm...sp?i=113KCAS210 $79.99
BEST "BANG FOR THE BUCK" PERFORMANCE
Autometer Ultra-Lite Boost Gauge (20 psi boost/30 in. Hg vacuum): $42.99 from Jegs
Autometer dual gauge pod (full A-pillar): $56.99 from Jegs
Set of 4 NGK BKR7E spark plugs: $8.00
JoeP MBC @ 9 psi: $45.00
Total Cost: Well under $200 with tax+shipping
Gains: From looking at the 1/4 mile times posted by members, you should be be seeing high 14's/low 15's with these mods.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Transmission
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Hard Time Getting Into Reverse.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Sometimes it'll be a little hard to get the car in to reverse. Kinda like it won't go in at all.
Why: No idea. Welcome to a Protege's transmission.
How To Fix: Well, to get it in gear, you can do a few things. The first being press the clutch in and run it through all of the gears without applying throttle and then try reverse again. You can also let off the clutch half way and slightly pull the shifter in to reverse. As you let off, it'll eventually pop right in to gear.
Some members have reported that changing transmission to a full synthetic does help. Example fluids are Royal Purple Max-Gear, Redline Superlight Shockproof, and GM Syncromesh. Definately check those out.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Grinding Gears.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Just when you start to take off and try to show off, you go into second and "KKKKKKKKKKRRRRRRRRRRRRRNCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCHHH H ". You just grinded. Good job!
Why: Again, welcome to the Protege transmission. It's not meant for speed shifting at all.
How To Fix: Take it easy on the transmission. I've been through two clutches and one transmission in under 32,000 miles. Thankfully they covered it under warranty. This tranny is *not* solid. Just because one member has had it covered does not mean you will, too.
Also, changing to a synthetic transmission fluid has helped some. There's also the Kartboy shifter bushings. Some people have said it's helped while some have said it's made it worse. It all depends on your driving style. A short shifter may also help here.
Kartboy Shifter Bushings will also help the feel of the shifter and remove the "play" enabling more precise shifts. More information available at www.kartboy.com.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Hard Time Getting Into Reverse.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Sometimes it'll be a little hard to get the car in to reverse. Kinda like it won't go in at all.
Why: No idea. Welcome to a Protege's transmission.
How To Fix: Well, to get it in gear, you can do a few things. The first being press the clutch in and run it through all of the gears without applying throttle and then try reverse again. You can also let off the clutch half way and slightly pull the shifter in to reverse. As you let off, it'll eventually pop right in to gear.
Some members have reported that changing transmission to a full synthetic does help. Example fluids are Royal Purple Max-Gear, Redline Superlight Shockproof, and GM Syncromesh. Definately check those out.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Grinding Gears.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Just when you start to take off and try to show off, you go into second and "KKKKKKKKKKRRRRRRRRRRRRRNCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCHHH H ". You just grinded. Good job!
Why: Again, welcome to the Protege transmission. It's not meant for speed shifting at all.
How To Fix: Take it easy on the transmission. I've been through two clutches and one transmission in under 32,000 miles. Thankfully they covered it under warranty. This tranny is *not* solid. Just because one member has had it covered does not mean you will, too.
Also, changing to a synthetic transmission fluid has helped some. There's also the Kartboy shifter bushings. Some people have said it's helped while some have said it's made it worse. It all depends on your driving style. A short shifter may also help here.
Kartboy Shifter Bushings will also help the feel of the shifter and remove the "play" enabling more precise shifts. More information available at www.kartboy.com.
TSB: Not available.
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:55 AM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Suspension
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: The "Clunk".
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you've ever heard a rattling or loud banging noise in the trunk area when you go over a bump or crack, you have the "clunk".
Why: Mazda used an alternate setup for the suspension and did sort of a 'cheap' alternate, making the suspension system incomplete. The root problem is a combination of a few things, however, it is somewhat repairable.
How To Fix: If you car has the "clunk", you will want to go to your dealer and get the newest rear suspension bushings on your car. There are several 'improved' bushings that Mazda has made, however, all have eventually failed. The newest bushing has been out since early October and while it did show promise, several members have reported that they, too, have failed. Seems that they did last a bit longer, however. Most D-series lasted a few days before the clunk returned while the E-series seems to last a few weeks and/or months. If you go in to have your bushings replaced, the part number for those newest bushings ends in "156E". Do not let the dealer give you the "156D" series as, again, the D will fail very quickly.
Mazda has released an official Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for the clunk so if you dealer gives you a hard time, it'll be a bit easier to show them what's wrong. The TSB text is included below.
UPDATE: Keep in mind that the Mazda bushings replacement is just more of a temporary "band-aid" than it is a fix. We do, however, have a great member on board who goes by Micahspeed who has spent a great amount of time developing a better fix. More information about this fix may be found here, here, and here. Keep in mind that this is not an official fix and Micahspeed is not related to Mazda in any way, shape, or form.
TSB:
Code:
CLUNK/KNOCK FROM REAR SUSPENSION OVER BUMPS
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2001 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2002 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
A clunk/knock can be heard from the rear suspension from MP3 and MAZDASPEED
vehicles when driving over uneven road surfaces such as speed bumps.
Repair Procedure
Inspect rear sway bar bushings, if excessive clearance is found replace
bushing with improved part.
Part Information:
Improved bushing - BN7H-28-156D (MP3 N MAZDASPEED ONLY)
Important Note: Lube bushings prior to assembly with a silicone paste to
prevent premature wear and/or squeaks.
Copyright © Mazda North American OperationsMore information about the Mazda fix may be found here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TX Speed Demon
In case anyone is wondering, here's the full part number and pic of the new rear sway bar bushings ending in 156E. Hopefully I'll have time tonight or tomorrow to install them and let everyone know how easy/hard they are to do yourself. I was quoted 3 different prices ranging from $11.88 - $14.50 each bushing.
EDIT - I replaced the bushing myself last night. Fairly easy process. You only need to:
1) Raise the car on jackstand - If you don't you will not be able to access the bolt on the front side.
2) Take your 14mm Socket wrench and undo the 2 bolts holding in each bushing mounting bracket.
3) Slide off the mounting hardware and remove bushing.
4) Put new bushing on bar.
5) Put mounting piece back on bushing and position correctly.
6) Reattch the 2 bolts for each mounting piece.
7) Lower you car back down and go for a test drive.
Issue: Front Suspension Squeak.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you've ever gone over a speed bump or hole in the road when it's been cold or freezing outside and your entire front end squeaks like crazy, here ya go. The sound may lessen after the car has been driven for a while as the front bushings will heat up, however, it doesn't really ever go away.
Why: You're driving a car with a very tuned suspension. The entire suspension is tight and needs occasional greasing to keep the parts in good condition. If you're not one to get your hands dirty, check out the "How To Fix".
How To Fix: If you have this problem, go to Mazda Service and have the front suspension bushings replaced with part # BN7H-34-156A. The old part # was BN7H-34-156.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: The "Clunk".
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you've ever heard a rattling or loud banging noise in the trunk area when you go over a bump or crack, you have the "clunk".
Why: Mazda used an alternate setup for the suspension and did sort of a 'cheap' alternate, making the suspension system incomplete. The root problem is a combination of a few things, however, it is somewhat repairable.
How To Fix: If you car has the "clunk", you will want to go to your dealer and get the newest rear suspension bushings on your car. There are several 'improved' bushings that Mazda has made, however, all have eventually failed. The newest bushing has been out since early October and while it did show promise, several members have reported that they, too, have failed. Seems that they did last a bit longer, however. Most D-series lasted a few days before the clunk returned while the E-series seems to last a few weeks and/or months. If you go in to have your bushings replaced, the part number for those newest bushings ends in "156E". Do not let the dealer give you the "156D" series as, again, the D will fail very quickly.
Mazda has released an official Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for the clunk so if you dealer gives you a hard time, it'll be a bit easier to show them what's wrong. The TSB text is included below.
UPDATE: Keep in mind that the Mazda bushings replacement is just more of a temporary "band-aid" than it is a fix. We do, however, have a great member on board who goes by Micahspeed who has spent a great amount of time developing a better fix. More information about this fix may be found here, here, and here. Keep in mind that this is not an official fix and Micahspeed is not related to Mazda in any way, shape, or form.
TSB:
Code:
CLUNK/KNOCK FROM REAR SUSPENSION OVER BUMPS
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2001 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2002 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
A clunk/knock can be heard from the rear suspension from MP3 and MAZDASPEED
vehicles when driving over uneven road surfaces such as speed bumps.
Repair Procedure
Inspect rear sway bar bushings, if excessive clearance is found replace
bushing with improved part.
Part Information:
Improved bushing - BN7H-28-156D (MP3 N MAZDASPEED ONLY)
Important Note: Lube bushings prior to assembly with a silicone paste to
prevent premature wear and/or squeaks.
Copyright © Mazda North American OperationsMore information about the Mazda fix may be found here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TX Speed Demon
In case anyone is wondering, here's the full part number and pic of the new rear sway bar bushings ending in 156E. Hopefully I'll have time tonight or tomorrow to install them and let everyone know how easy/hard they are to do yourself. I was quoted 3 different prices ranging from $11.88 - $14.50 each bushing.
EDIT - I replaced the bushing myself last night. Fairly easy process. You only need to:
1) Raise the car on jackstand - If you don't you will not be able to access the bolt on the front side.
2) Take your 14mm Socket wrench and undo the 2 bolts holding in each bushing mounting bracket.
3) Slide off the mounting hardware and remove bushing.
4) Put new bushing on bar.
5) Put mounting piece back on bushing and position correctly.
6) Reattch the 2 bolts for each mounting piece.
7) Lower you car back down and go for a test drive.
Issue: Front Suspension Squeak.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you've ever gone over a speed bump or hole in the road when it's been cold or freezing outside and your entire front end squeaks like crazy, here ya go. The sound may lessen after the car has been driven for a while as the front bushings will heat up, however, it doesn't really ever go away.
Why: You're driving a car with a very tuned suspension. The entire suspension is tight and needs occasional greasing to keep the parts in good condition. If you're not one to get your hands dirty, check out the "How To Fix".
How To Fix: If you have this problem, go to Mazda Service and have the front suspension bushings replaced with part # BN7H-34-156A. The old part # was BN7H-34-156.
TSB: Not available.
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:56 AM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Tires/Brakes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Rust On Brake Rotor Hubs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Rust develops on the rotor hub behind the center of the wheel.
Why: The MSPs came over on boats & sat on the docks for weeks. Not good.
How To Fix: Take to dealer & ask them to fix them. They will machine them down, refinish them, and repaint them for free. Keep in mind this is one time only and only before 12,000 miles.
TSB:
Code:
RUST ON BRAKE ROTOR HUBS
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2001 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2002 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
1999 MILLENIA 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2000 MILLENIA 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2001 MILLENIA 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Rust can be seen on the brake rotor hub area when looking between the
wheel spokes. The rust is most visible on vehicles equipped with 17" chrome
wheels.
Repair Procedure
1. Remove rust from hub(s) by sanding.
2. Clean/prep hub surface for primer.
3. Mask off brake rotor area.
4. Apply primer around entire hub area.
5. Once primer dries, apply a heat type silver paint to the affected area to
repair the vehicle.
Note: Replace the hub(s) if the affected area cannot be repaired enough to
satisfy the customer.
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Extremely Sensitive ABS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: When going over slight hills or even straight while braking, the pedal freaks out and the car feels as though it slides before stopping.
Why: That's the nature of the beast. Some people say the ABS system on our cars is too sensitive. However, most would rather it be too sensitive than too lax.
How To Fix: If it's entirely too sensitive for you, you can try going to the dealership. It's unknown what they will do. Some members have disabled ABS entirely, however, this is HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Tire Performance In Wet/Cold Conditions.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: You have no grip in the snow/rain with the stock tires.
Why: The tires that came on the MSP are "high performance" and are NOT meant, nor should they be, to be used in cold/snow climates. An accident is almost guaranteed for those who use they stock tires in the snow.
How To Fix: It would be HIGHLY advised to get snow tires with steel wheels for the winter. Find those at a local tire place.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Rust On Brake Rotor Hubs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Rust develops on the rotor hub behind the center of the wheel.
Why: The MSPs came over on boats & sat on the docks for weeks. Not good.
How To Fix: Take to dealer & ask them to fix them. They will machine them down, refinish them, and repaint them for free. Keep in mind this is one time only and only before 12,000 miles.
TSB:
Code:
RUST ON BRAKE ROTOR HUBS
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2001 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2002 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
1999 MILLENIA 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2000 MILLENIA 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
2001 MILLENIA 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Rust can be seen on the brake rotor hub area when looking between the
wheel spokes. The rust is most visible on vehicles equipped with 17" chrome
wheels.
Repair Procedure
1. Remove rust from hub(s) by sanding.
2. Clean/prep hub surface for primer.
3. Mask off brake rotor area.
4. Apply primer around entire hub area.
5. Once primer dries, apply a heat type silver paint to the affected area to
repair the vehicle.
Note: Replace the hub(s) if the affected area cannot be repaired enough to
satisfy the customer.
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Extremely Sensitive ABS.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: When going over slight hills or even straight while braking, the pedal freaks out and the car feels as though it slides before stopping.
Why: That's the nature of the beast. Some people say the ABS system on our cars is too sensitive. However, most would rather it be too sensitive than too lax.
How To Fix: If it's entirely too sensitive for you, you can try going to the dealership. It's unknown what they will do. Some members have disabled ABS entirely, however, this is HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED.
TSB: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Tire Performance In Wet/Cold Conditions.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: You have no grip in the snow/rain with the stock tires.
Why: The tires that came on the MSP are "high performance" and are NOT meant, nor should they be, to be used in cold/snow climates. An accident is almost guaranteed for those who use they stock tires in the snow.
How To Fix: It would be HIGHLY advised to get snow tires with steel wheels for the winter. Find those at a local tire place.
TSB: Not available.
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:57 AM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Radio/Electronics
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Radio Lockup/Blackout.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you're ever driving and your radio randomly flips down like it's going in to the "load CD" position and then locks, you've experienced yet another MSP quirk. Another reported problem is having audio playing but nothing on the LCD screen.
Why: Debatable. Some people say it's because Mazda used the refurbished Kenwood units in the MSP. No one has verified this and is more than likely just a rumor someone made up when they were pissed off.
How To Fix: There's a small circular "Reset" button located on the face of the radio. All you need to do is grab a pen, key, hairpin, handcuff key, etc and press and hold this button for 5 seconds and release. The faceplate should flip back up and be good to go. Keep in mind, however, that doing this resets all memory banks and you WILL have to setup everything from date and time to your favorite stations. Here's the button I'm talking about_:
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary fix. You can go back to your dealership and explain the problem and you should be able to get another under warranty.
{D.I.Y. FIX REMOVED}
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
Issue: Headunit Forgets Audio Settings.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Headunit forgets audio setup settings or clears memory after resetting due to above problem.
Why: Unknown as to why it does it by itself. It is normal behavior, however, when you manually reset the unit.
How To Fix: If your deck resets without you manually resetting it, return to the dealership. They should replace it under warranty. The default settings are listed below so you can reset it while you're waiting for the new unit. Keep in mind that the below settings are "optimized defaults" and you are urged to change as you feel needed.
TSB/M-Tip:
Code:
MAZDASPEED PROTEGE, OPTIMUM AUDIO CONTROL SETTINGS
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Listed below are the Optimum Audio Control settings specified by KENWOOD
for the Kenwood KDC-MP919 CD-Receiver when used with the MAZDASPEED
subwoofer unit.
Adjustment Procedure
1. Press the SRC button to turn the unit on.
2. Press the AUD button for at least one second to enter the control mode,
which will display the first adjustment item.
3. Press the FM button to scroll forward, or the AM button to scroll Back, in
the adjustment items list.
4. Press the -- or >> to adjust settings of the displayed item to the values
as specified in the list below.
5. Press AUD button to exit the Audio Control Mode.
Adjustment Item Display Setting
Bass Center Frequency Bass FRQ 60
Bass Level Bass 0
Bass Q Factor Bass Q 2.00
Bass Extend Bass EXT ON
Middle Center Frequency MID FQR 0.5
Middle Level MID +1
Middle Q Factor Middle Q 1.0
Treble Center Frequency TRE FRQ 12.5
Treble Level TRE +2
Balance Balance 0
Fader Fader 0
Non-Fading Level NF Level 00
Front High-Pass Filter HPF Front 100
Rear High-Pass Filter HPF Rear 100
Non-Fading Low-Pass Filter NPF NF 80
Non-Fading Phase NF Phase Normal (0 )
Volume offset Volume Offset 0
Loudness LOUD ON (speaker shown)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Trunk Amp Rack Rattles.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you hear a slight rattle in the trunk and it's not too terribly loud (ie: the "clunk"), it's probably the amp rack rattling against the rear deck.
Why: There's no kind of insulation between the amp rack and the rear deck. When going over bumps, it vibraties and hits the rear deck.
How To Fix: There's two things you can do. One is a do it yourself project. That involves going to the local hardware store and grabbing some thick foam and placing that foam between the amp rack and the rear deck. That should help.
However, you may also return to the dealership and they should order a new rack for you or add foam, depending on what they want to do.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Blown Stock Subwoofer.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: The stock subwoofer blows after normal usage.
Why: The stock sub suffers from a weak voice coil. After normal use of the sub, the voice coil will simply detach itself from the cone and render the sub useless. This may not be an immediate detachment and thusly your subwoofer may kick in and out at random times but it will eventually die completely.
How To Fix: Return to the dealership. Most dealerships have given the customers a completely new new amp rack including amp, the plastic deck and subwoofer. I haven't heard of a dealership just replacing the subwoofer by itself. Keep in mind this is a great time to talk to them about your amp rack if it rattles.
TSB/M-Tip:
Code:
MAZDASPEED PROTEGE - SUBWOOFER INOP
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Customer may experience intermittent or no sound from Kenwood rear tray
subwoofer. When you encounter a customer with this concern repair vehicle
according to the following repair procedures.
Repair Procedure
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Confirm that the NF (Non Fading {rear sub-woofer audio signal}) has not
been turned off accidentally by the customer. This can be checked with
the audio turned on and pressing the AM button for approximately 2
seconds, this will cause the display screen to momentarily change
indicating "NF", ON or off.
3. Confirm power to rear subwoofer amp by verifying orange LED illuminates
when the audio unit is turned on.
If no faults are found in the above steps, exchange the subwoofer tray
assembly by contacting KENWOOD at (XXX) XXX-8740 and faxing the audio
exchange order form to FAX No. (XXX) XXX-8749.
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Alarm Keeps Parking Lights On When Activated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: When you set the alarm with the remote, the parking lights & tail lights stay on. Can and will cause the battery to die if you don't notice or get it fixed.
Why: The alarm control module is defective
How To Fix: Return to dealer and have it replaced under warranty. Be prepared to wait a long time, however, as these parts were/are on national backorder. Until then, you just have to lock the doors inside & not use the alarm. There is a way to remove the alarm completely, however, this is a public forum and it would be stupid to tell people how. Consult your local audio professionals if you choose to remove the alarm until the new unit gets in.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Alarm Goes Off Randomly/Overly Sensitive.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you've ever had to run outside and turn your alarm off because of a passing truck or have had a neighbor compain about your car randomly going crazy, you've got the overly sensitive alarm issue.
Why: The sensitivity of the alarm is set too high from the factory.
How To Fix: Find perimeter alarm module and adjust it. It's a small black box above pedals under the dash. It'll have a red LED on it and when you tap it, the LED will light up. Find the white knob on the side and turn it until you get the desired sensitivity. Below you can kinda see the box I'm referring to.
TSB/M-Tip:
Code:
ALARM SYSTEM SOUNDS OFF - TOO SENSITIVE
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
1999 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
2000 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
2001 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
2002 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
Symptoms and Conditions
The alarm system's shock sensor may be set too sensitive and cause the
alarm to activate very easily.
Repair Procedure
1. Locate the shock sensor that is tie wraped on the wiring harness just
below the steering wheel.
2. As you face the shock sensor, adjust the shock sensor's sensitivity
knob by:
- turn the knob counterclockwise to decrease the sensitivity
- turn the knob clockwise to increase the sensitivity
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Radio Lockup/Blackout.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you're ever driving and your radio randomly flips down like it's going in to the "load CD" position and then locks, you've experienced yet another MSP quirk. Another reported problem is having audio playing but nothing on the LCD screen.
Why: Debatable. Some people say it's because Mazda used the refurbished Kenwood units in the MSP. No one has verified this and is more than likely just a rumor someone made up when they were pissed off.
How To Fix: There's a small circular "Reset" button located on the face of the radio. All you need to do is grab a pen, key, hairpin, handcuff key, etc and press and hold this button for 5 seconds and release. The faceplate should flip back up and be good to go. Keep in mind, however, that doing this resets all memory banks and you WILL have to setup everything from date and time to your favorite stations. Here's the button I'm talking about_:
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary fix. You can go back to your dealership and explain the problem and you should be able to get another under warranty.
{D.I.Y. FIX REMOVED}
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
Issue: Headunit Forgets Audio Settings.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Headunit forgets audio setup settings or clears memory after resetting due to above problem.
Why: Unknown as to why it does it by itself. It is normal behavior, however, when you manually reset the unit.
How To Fix: If your deck resets without you manually resetting it, return to the dealership. They should replace it under warranty. The default settings are listed below so you can reset it while you're waiting for the new unit. Keep in mind that the below settings are "optimized defaults" and you are urged to change as you feel needed.
TSB/M-Tip:
Code:
MAZDASPEED PROTEGE, OPTIMUM AUDIO CONTROL SETTINGS
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Listed below are the Optimum Audio Control settings specified by KENWOOD
for the Kenwood KDC-MP919 CD-Receiver when used with the MAZDASPEED
subwoofer unit.
Adjustment Procedure
1. Press the SRC button to turn the unit on.
2. Press the AUD button for at least one second to enter the control mode,
which will display the first adjustment item.
3. Press the FM button to scroll forward, or the AM button to scroll Back, in
the adjustment items list.
4. Press the -- or >> to adjust settings of the displayed item to the values
as specified in the list below.
5. Press AUD button to exit the Audio Control Mode.
Adjustment Item Display Setting
Bass Center Frequency Bass FRQ 60
Bass Level Bass 0
Bass Q Factor Bass Q 2.00
Bass Extend Bass EXT ON
Middle Center Frequency MID FQR 0.5
Middle Level MID +1
Middle Q Factor Middle Q 1.0
Treble Center Frequency TRE FRQ 12.5
Treble Level TRE +2
Balance Balance 0
Fader Fader 0
Non-Fading Level NF Level 00
Front High-Pass Filter HPF Front 100
Rear High-Pass Filter HPF Rear 100
Non-Fading Low-Pass Filter NPF NF 80
Non-Fading Phase NF Phase Normal (0 )
Volume offset Volume Offset 0
Loudness LOUD ON (speaker shown)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Trunk Amp Rack Rattles.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you hear a slight rattle in the trunk and it's not too terribly loud (ie: the "clunk"), it's probably the amp rack rattling against the rear deck.
Why: There's no kind of insulation between the amp rack and the rear deck. When going over bumps, it vibraties and hits the rear deck.
How To Fix: There's two things you can do. One is a do it yourself project. That involves going to the local hardware store and grabbing some thick foam and placing that foam between the amp rack and the rear deck. That should help.
However, you may also return to the dealership and they should order a new rack for you or add foam, depending on what they want to do.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Blown Stock Subwoofer.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: The stock subwoofer blows after normal usage.
Why: The stock sub suffers from a weak voice coil. After normal use of the sub, the voice coil will simply detach itself from the cone and render the sub useless. This may not be an immediate detachment and thusly your subwoofer may kick in and out at random times but it will eventually die completely.
How To Fix: Return to the dealership. Most dealerships have given the customers a completely new new amp rack including amp, the plastic deck and subwoofer. I haven't heard of a dealership just replacing the subwoofer by itself. Keep in mind this is a great time to talk to them about your amp rack if it rattles.
TSB/M-Tip:
Code:
MAZDASPEED PROTEGE - SUBWOOFER INOP
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2003 PROTEGE 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Symptoms and Conditions
Customer may experience intermittent or no sound from Kenwood rear tray
subwoofer. When you encounter a customer with this concern repair vehicle
according to the following repair procedures.
Repair Procedure
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Confirm that the NF (Non Fading {rear sub-woofer audio signal}) has not
been turned off accidentally by the customer. This can be checked with
the audio turned on and pressing the AM button for approximately 2
seconds, this will cause the display screen to momentarily change
indicating "NF", ON or off.
3. Confirm power to rear subwoofer amp by verifying orange LED illuminates
when the audio unit is turned on.
If no faults are found in the above steps, exchange the subwoofer tray
assembly by contacting KENWOOD at (XXX) XXX-8740 and faxing the audio
exchange order form to FAX No. (XXX) XXX-8749.
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Alarm Keeps Parking Lights On When Activated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: When you set the alarm with the remote, the parking lights & tail lights stay on. Can and will cause the battery to die if you don't notice or get it fixed.
Why: The alarm control module is defective
How To Fix: Return to dealer and have it replaced under warranty. Be prepared to wait a long time, however, as these parts were/are on national backorder. Until then, you just have to lock the doors inside & not use the alarm. There is a way to remove the alarm completely, however, this is a public forum and it would be stupid to tell people how. Consult your local audio professionals if you choose to remove the alarm until the new unit gets in.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Alarm Goes Off Randomly/Overly Sensitive.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you've ever had to run outside and turn your alarm off because of a passing truck or have had a neighbor compain about your car randomly going crazy, you've got the overly sensitive alarm issue.
Why: The sensitivity of the alarm is set too high from the factory.
How To Fix: Find perimeter alarm module and adjust it. It's a small black box above pedals under the dash. It'll have a red LED on it and when you tap it, the LED will light up. Find the white knob on the side and turn it until you get the desired sensitivity. Below you can kinda see the box I'm referring to.
TSB/M-Tip:
Code:
ALARM SYSTEM SOUNDS OFF - TOO SENSITIVE
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
1999 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
2000 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
2001 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
2002 PROTEGE 10000001 29999999
Symptoms and Conditions
The alarm system's shock sensor may be set too sensitive and cause the
alarm to activate very easily.
Repair Procedure
1. Locate the shock sensor that is tie wraped on the wiring harness just
below the steering wheel.
2. As you face the shock sensor, adjust the shock sensor's sensitivity
knob by:
- turn the knob counterclockwise to decrease the sensitivity
- turn the knob clockwise to increase the sensitivity
Copyright © Mazda North American Operations
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:57 AM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Interior Body
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Rear Deck Vibration Due To Center Seatbelt.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Waiting on further information.
Why: Waiting on further information.
How To Fix: Waiting on further information.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Squeaky Radio Chassis.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: During driving, the piece surrounding the radio may squeak.
Why: More or less it just boils down to vibrations taking their toll.
How To Fix: Return to dealership and notify them of squeak. Some dealerships will attempt to just fix the squeak and some will order a while center console assembly. Be sure to look for new scratches on the console before you leave the dealership.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Rear Deck Vibration Due To Center Seatbelt.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: Waiting on further information.
Why: Waiting on further information.
How To Fix: Waiting on further information.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Squeaky Radio Chassis.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: During driving, the piece surrounding the radio may squeak.
Why: More or less it just boils down to vibrations taking their toll.
How To Fix: Return to dealership and notify them of squeak. Some dealerships will attempt to just fix the squeak and some will order a while center console assembly. Be sure to look for new scratches on the console before you leave the dealership.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available
Last edited by `92CXhatch; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:58 AM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Exterior Body
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Front Windshield Cracking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you ever notice that your window has cracked and you don't remember hearing anything hit it, you may have a stress crack.
Why: Due to the rigid chassis on our cars, the windshield gets quite a bit of pressure put on it. Eventually this may cause a crack to appear from one of the sides and grow inward. If your windshild is cracked in the middle or the crack does not come from one of the sides, it is not a stress crack.
How To Fix: First of all, make sure it's a stress crack and not one caused by something else. Here's an easy little 'test' you can perform. Take a somewhat sharp ball point pen and run it from the base of the crack down the actual crack until the end. If the pen stops at any point or if you feel any resistance, it was more than likely not a stress crack. If the pen does not stop, it may be. In that case, go back to dealership and let them know. This is kind of a sticky warranty item since many dealerships won't take the time to check but if they do, you should be fine.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Rear Bumper Skirt Falling Off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: You're about to get in and be moved when, as you walk around the car, you notice that the rear bumper cover lip is seperating from the bumper above the exhaust.
Why: Due to the heat of the exhaust that's exiting right below the lip, the double sided tape that holds the lip on begins to fail. The lip begins to fall off due to it only being held on with tape and no screws.
How To Fix: Return to the dealership and talk to them. Most, if not all, reported occasions of this problem have been fixed.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Front Windshield Cracking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: If you ever notice that your window has cracked and you don't remember hearing anything hit it, you may have a stress crack.
Why: Due to the rigid chassis on our cars, the windshield gets quite a bit of pressure put on it. Eventually this may cause a crack to appear from one of the sides and grow inward. If your windshild is cracked in the middle or the crack does not come from one of the sides, it is not a stress crack.
How To Fix: First of all, make sure it's a stress crack and not one caused by something else. Here's an easy little 'test' you can perform. Take a somewhat sharp ball point pen and run it from the base of the crack down the actual crack until the end. If the pen stops at any point or if you feel any resistance, it was more than likely not a stress crack. If the pen does not stop, it may be. In that case, go back to dealership and let them know. This is kind of a sticky warranty item since many dealerships won't take the time to check but if they do, you should be fine.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Issue: Rear Bumper Skirt Falling Off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What: You're about to get in and be moved when, as you walk around the car, you notice that the rear bumper cover lip is seperating from the bumper above the exhaust.
Why: Due to the heat of the exhaust that's exiting right below the lip, the double sided tape that holds the lip on begins to fail. The lip begins to fall off due to it only being held on with tape and no screws.
How To Fix: Return to the dealership and talk to them. Most, if not all, reported occasions of this problem have been fixed.
TSB/M-Tip: Not available.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hiboost FMIC kit $900.00
for more information e-mail www.info@hiboost.com
WagnerMotorsports FMIC kit $975.00
For pic's see www.wagnermotorsports.net
AEM cold-air intake $264.00
www.apexr1.com
:engine:
WagnerMotorsports
Built short blocks $2150.00 plus S&H $600.00 core charge
www.wagnermotorsports.net
:engine management:
Corksport computer $825.00
www.corksport.com
AEM EMS
for more info contact www.wagnermotorsports.net
:Exhaust:
Corksport "power series" Exhaust $389.00
www.corksport.com
Greddy SP-2 cat-back exhaust $469
www.apexr1.com
for more information e-mail www.info@hiboost.com
WagnerMotorsports FMIC kit $975.00
For pic's see www.wagnermotorsports.net
AEM cold-air intake $264.00
www.apexr1.com
:engine:
WagnerMotorsports
Built short blocks $2150.00 plus S&H $600.00 core charge
www.wagnermotorsports.net
:engine management:
Corksport computer $825.00
www.corksport.com
AEM EMS
for more info contact www.wagnermotorsports.net
:Exhaust:
Corksport "power series" Exhaust $389.00
www.corksport.com
Greddy SP-2 cat-back exhaust $469
www.apexr1.com
