:) Oil Oil Oil :)

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Tampa's_Slow_EG6
running that 2.99 autozone oil on the single slam.. it goes thru one quart per gas tank.. lmao.. funny part is it does not have any leaks.. lmaooooooo!


when i go B im using mobil one full syn.. thats wat i use to run on my accord..
Going from regular dino oil 10w-30 to M1 10w-30, I stop 'losing' as much oil. Went from like losing a quart a tank and a half to losing like a half quart every two tanks.. The family Accord is turning at 260k miles now, been running strong on M1 the last 100k miles..

Last edited by sxysweed; Jul 2, 2010 at 07:24 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:27 AM
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I run Rotella T5 Diesel Oil 10-30. Mobil 1 is probably one of the worst oils for us old Tappet style rocker people (B series, D series, H series) since the EPA has ordered oil companies to remove most of the zinc content from their products. This is because Zinc is not emissions friendly and now with roller rocker technology is no longer needed. This puts us people out because we start to have rocker pad and cam wear.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue92ludesi
I run Rotella T5 Diesel Oil 10-30. Mobil 1 is probably one of the worst oils for us old Tappet style rocker people (B series, D series, H series) since the EPA has ordered oil companies to remove most of the zinc content from their products. This is because Zinc is not emissions friendly and now with roller rocker technology is no longer needed. This puts us people out because we start to have rocker pad and cam wear.
Where are you getting it from
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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What about Rotella and sensors? Or does it not affect them? I was just thinking about how like leaded gas fucks things up but this is oil with zinc lol
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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Rotella is the shiz

Last oil change I did was Mobil 1 and the most expensive filter walmart had lol. Forgot what brand, but I read good reviews on it.

When it comes to oil I feel that keeping it fresh every 3000 miles is more important then anything else.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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I run Walmart oil + ZDDplus additive. I haven't decided on a synthetic yet, probably Amsoil though.

ZDDPlus™ - ZDDP Additive for Classic Cars - Agricultural Equipment & More

If you want to have more zinc and phosphorus additives in the oil, then use a "high mileage" oil, they have more additives. The API rating is SL.

The EPA hasn't necessarily required that the additives be reduced. They have required that factory catalytic converters last 8 years/80000 miles. The burned zinc and phosphorus compounds form a coating on the cats, reducing their efficiency. To make the cats last longer, the additives had to go.

H series guys have it really bad with the new oil.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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I actually spent $200 to prove thise argument I tested mobil 10w30 and royal purple and a new oem oil filter every time I changed.On the dyno my car made 337whp with the mobil and 331whp with the royal purple and this was done with out changing anything but the oil and filter.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 03:33 PM
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mitsu eclipse 10w30 penzoil (10w30 royal next oil change), tranny Royal purple

Hyundia Tiburon 10w30 Royal Purple, Hyundia Manual Trans fluid

Porsche 10w40 Rotella, Porsche Manual Tranny Fluid

Honda crx 5w30 valv.(break in oil) 1000 miles royal purple 10w30, Tranny Honda Manual
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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I run straight astroglide, no friction, no knocks, no damage to walls at high rpm's

lols


but in all seriousness i just change it at 2k and run honda 5w30
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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i have always ran mobil 1 in all my cars, Some people love it and some people hate it. I just think it thins out too fast tho. And i dont like the idea of that.
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