What are some good..
ok man when you buy a swap it comes with pretty much everything you need to have that engine running in your car i.e. engine, tranny, ecu, harness, blah blah blah now you will need a mount kit from hasport or place racing or you could just have the mount welded which i think is just as good as the mounts though you don't get ass raped in price. Now in my opinion you really need to research this a lot more before you do anything, not trying to be a dick but you don;t seem to know much about this kind of thing for instance you are trying to buy a b series engine and you are asking if you can bolt it to a d series transmission. try looking at hybrid.honda-perf.org for information. also try google searches for various honda terms. also to buy the swap i would say hmotorsonline.com, to install the swap i would go with neal 813-842-5517 he is in my opinion one of (if not) the best in tampa and he is reasonably priced for the most part, much better than secret services (price).[/code]
ok man when you buy a swap it comes with pretty much everything you need to have that engine running in your car i.e. engine, tranny, ecu, harness, blah blah blah now you will need a mount kit from hasport or place racing or you could just have the mount welded which i think is just as good as the mounts though you don't get ass raped in price. Now in my opinion you really need to research this a lot more before you do anything, not trying to be a dick but you don;t seem to know much about this kind of thing for instance you are trying to buy a b series engine and you are asking if you can bolt it to a d series transmission. try looking at hybrid.honda-perf.org for information. also try google searches for various honda terms. also to buy the swap i would say hmotorsonline.com, to install the swap i would go with neal 813-842-5517 he is in my opinion one of (if not) the best in tampa and he is reasonably priced for the most part, much better than secret services (price).[/code]
Me and a few other people I know got a full swap from hmotorsonline.com and it's been good. Pay the extra $300 for the LSD, if you ever plan to boost, it's worth it. Installing it later will cost you way more than $300.
shipping will cost around $350
I can't remember what series motor you have but if you wiring harnes is for an HF motor, you will be in serious need of someone who can hook up your wiring. Kevin is good 909-2204.
solo_mata_me gave you a really good idea of everything that you need. hmotors does include the ECU for the engine in the swap. Although the engines comes with low mileage if you are only planning a swap without perfoming out the engine, you won't need to do the clutch. That can save you over $400 right there.
I also suggest replacing the fuel filter (your year CRX filter), front and rear main seal, timing belt, cap, rotor, plugs, water pump, and pcv valve. The rest of these parts come off of a 95 Del Sol Vtec DOHC if you go with a B16A Sir1.
That's another thing to be prepared for, when you're in need of parts you have to order for the engine and tranny. Your car may be a CRX but now it has a Del Sol motor for example. So you'll have to know what parts have to come from what.
Also be prepared to modify the exhaust so that it hooks up off the downpipe. It's minor.
I wouldn't suggest welding the mounts, buy Place Racing or Has Port.
Face it you are going to have to spend $$$, so spend it to do it the right way the first time or pay and pay later on.
shipping will cost around $350
I can't remember what series motor you have but if you wiring harnes is for an HF motor, you will be in serious need of someone who can hook up your wiring. Kevin is good 909-2204.
solo_mata_me gave you a really good idea of everything that you need. hmotors does include the ECU for the engine in the swap. Although the engines comes with low mileage if you are only planning a swap without perfoming out the engine, you won't need to do the clutch. That can save you over $400 right there.
I also suggest replacing the fuel filter (your year CRX filter), front and rear main seal, timing belt, cap, rotor, plugs, water pump, and pcv valve. The rest of these parts come off of a 95 Del Sol Vtec DOHC if you go with a B16A Sir1.
That's another thing to be prepared for, when you're in need of parts you have to order for the engine and tranny. Your car may be a CRX but now it has a Del Sol motor for example. So you'll have to know what parts have to come from what.
Also be prepared to modify the exhaust so that it hooks up off the downpipe. It's minor.
I wouldn't suggest welding the mounts, buy Place Racing or Has Port.
Face it you are going to have to spend $$$, so spend it to do it the right way the first time or pay and pay later on.
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if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point
...91 SMF SCCA
...91 SMF SCCAhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
– the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production
Also, keep in mind, the motors dont have 35k on them. They have no way of telling... Clutchwear/carbon deposits on the most recent swaps ive seen make me believe more like 80k.
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Originally Posted by Lil Ze
Florida is the new Miami through and through.
Because most weld jobs turn out shitty. Mount kits give the motor much better engine stability and axle geometry compared with weld ins.
Also the way everyone does the weld ins is they mig weld the bracket to sheetmetal. This is not a very strong weld. Tig welded or spot welded (like how they are from the factory) would be much better.
Auto to manual conversion is the big thing you need to worry about, it requires alot of parts that aadd up in price and someone knowledgeable enough to do it.
Good Luck.
Also the way everyone does the weld ins is they mig weld the bracket to sheetmetal. This is not a very strong weld. Tig welded or spot welded (like how they are from the factory) would be much better.
Auto to manual conversion is the big thing you need to worry about, it requires alot of parts that aadd up in price and someone knowledgeable enough to do it.
Good Luck.
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Don't bother giving me "rep", I won't return it and I think it is stupid.
Gracie Barra Clearwater
Gyms in Clearwater, St. Pete and Port Richey
pm me if you are interested in trying a free class at any of the gyms.
Don't bother giving me "rep", I won't return it and I think it is stupid.
Gracie Barra Clearwater
pm me if you are interested in trying a free class at any of the gyms.
alright you are a very misonformed person. mig welds are much stronger than tig welds and they are not tig welded from the factory, you are thinking of headers and exhuasts, now those have hardly any stress on them therefore they are tig welded. nothing with signifigant weight on it would be tig welded it would be welded with an arc welder or a mig. so therefore you are wrong.


