Break-in: Everyone is going to tell you different stuff.

This is what I believe in:
- run 30wt non detergent oil
-Start the car and run at high idle 2000rpms for 10 mins or so. Check for leaks and that the fan comes on.
- let the car cool down and change the oil and filter. run normal 30wt
- drive the car, go through the gears at a moderate rpm say 3-3.5k to make sure everything is okay with the drivetrain, tranny, ect...
- if everything is good then get on it some in second and third gear. Accelerate then let off. Don't redline it but don't be afraid to zing it pretty good. Do this for a couple of miles.
- check vacuum, if it is about 20lbs at idle then the rings are pretty much seated, if not then repeat accelerating and letting off.
- If the vacuum test is good then just put miles on the car but don't hold the rpms steady, keep them varying. Get on it occasionally in the lower gears (1-3).
- change oil at 500 and 1000 miles
- after 1000 miles drive it however you like and run whatever oil you like.

As far as turbo you should break the motor in under boost. If possible I would try not to run the turbo for the first 10-20 minutes before the first oil change but I don't think that is a big deal as long as the build was clean.

 

To rebuild bottom end in your case:
bore/hone to the spec for your pistons
new main and rod bearings along with thrust washers
new seals and gaskets
I'd also upgrade to a type r oil pump depending on what year ls you have (96+ ls is a type r pump I believe, have to check)

many people or any machine shop can tapp your oil pan.

One of your intake manifold vacuum lines can be teed into for the wastegate. Vacuum hose is cheap, buy 10 feet of it and it will be more than you'll ever need.

Engine assembly lube for bearings and such and moly lube for cams both can be found at NAPA or the like.

 

I'd get oversized pistons. 81.25mm. This way you can set the pistons to wall clearances to spec and the boring process itself garentees the cylinder walls are true round. Boring costs about $80 or so and is WELL worth it.

I don't believe in taking it real easy on a break in especially in the first couple of miles. Cylinder pressure is what helps the rings seat. The pressure gets behind the ring in the ring land and forces the ring outward which is how they seat by friction with the cylinder wall. Taking it real easy just makes this process last longer. The longer it takes to seat the rings the more friction, created by the texture of the hone, is lost. To each his own, I just wanted to explain my reaoning so no one thinks I'm crazy.


KJ

 

look at the cam journals to make sure they are not scratched. Make sure you get all of the cam journals. Check to make sure the mating surface on the bottom of the head does not have any deep scratches. Look at how the valves are seated in the combustion chamber. They should all be seating pretty much flush and all look alike. The valves themselves might be a little diiscolored (carbon/ash) when comparing them to each other based on which way the spark plug was facing, don't worry about this. What you do need to look for is color change associated with melting metal (burnt valve), kinda hard to tell, look for slight disfiguring of the valve head by the edge.

You can run the throttle body, no problem. If you want to upgrade in the future it takes 5 minutes.