So you are keeping it a secret? you haven't given a straight answer yet you just keep telling me how smart you are.

 

My car is pretty well looked over by hundreds of people during car meets.
You are free to do the same.

I don't have to tell anyone how I manufacture my Lifetime Warranty Traction Bars, my Hard Rubber Motor/Transmission Mounts, my Ball Joints
for Extremely Lowered Cars, my Street Lowering Springs or any of the other solutions listed in my shop forum.

I'm currently not teaching a course in fabrication/manfacturing. If you want to learn how something is manufactured, I'm sure there are plenty of
websites as well as shows on cable TV.-Bob

 

Some people seem to have strong opinions when they have no facts.

When some people don't understand something, smart people educate themselves. Other people laugh at what they don't understand.

A lot of TR members are learning about cars and I and others voluntarily share information with those people at no cost. People can make their own decisions as to who on our foums was helpful to them.
-Bob

 

So are you trying to say I'm a newbie to cars? I have actually been part of many BMW and Porsche track car builds you know the kind that need to pass tech to race, there are a few people on here that can vouch for that, not many though because I don't go on every thread and tell people how smart I am. And if you freely give info how come you wouldn't answer my question instead you tell me to look on sites and tv? I can build a car and have built a few, I'm stating I'm an engine builder but I do understand cars. So instead of being a dick and telling me to get my facts straight why don't you get yours straight before calling me out.

Let's end it here so you don't have to look like more of an ass, Thanks

 

Here's an example of a recent post/answer that might have been useful to some people....and If anything posted on TR's forums offends, readers
on TR are free to ignore it.-Bob
---------------------------------------

If I were driving on a banked track or one where the car becomes airborn, I would calculate what the car weighs sitting still, and what I believe it will weigh on the banking and/or landing, and that would tell me the spring rate I would need to keep the car from bottoming out. That is why I asked about car weight and stock spring rates.

I asked about the forces that will be trying to push the car into bottoming-out mode for the same reason.

As for a street driven car, I would go with spring rates close to stock since they were engineered/designed to support the weight of a stock car. and i would use heavier/stiffer shocks to damp out the road bumps and depressions to keep the tires pushed down onto the road, regardless of the minor ups and downs of the car's body while being driven on the street.

I believe springs that are too hard, cause a car to lose grip in a turn, since I believe hard springs don't allow the tires to follow the road contours as closely.

Since I cannot figure the forces that a person will encounter on the street in EACH turn, or even the radius of EACH turn encountered on the street, It's pretty hard to say for the street, exactly what springs, other than stock, that a person should use.....especially in flat Florida, where the steepest bank is the X-way entrance/exit.

I suspect that life being full of compromises, most people have what they "think" they need instead of what they really need. They are also limited by how much they want to spend, and they don't keep buying springs until they get the "feel" that they want.

With a race car, a person has several sets of springs and tunes for each track which they run on......going harder or softer.....the advantages are:

1.Race turns and radiuses won't change for a given track, so they can be measured. The street is a multitude of compromises and variables and most people won't keep buying springs until they get it right for their type of driving.

2.Driver preference and driving style remain constant/flat out on a race track but on the street, a person is not always driving at the limit of his ability.-Bob
__________________

 

WTF! ^

 

Oh I meant ro say im not an engine builder but I do understand cars

 

yea ive read that before, and as a professional in the sports/formula/prototype car field I see the first paragraph as horseshit right off the bat.

 

why ya'll hattin on Bob? Maybe its not what you like or what you would do with your car but if its what he likes then so be it. Seems to be more of a function type of guy, if it works then why not? He's willing to dedicate his time to help other Honda owners, cant hate on someone for that.

 

Since there seems to be some misunderstandings by some people,
I am clarfying the Lifetime Warranty on Traction Bars made by me....

Each traction Bar is serial numbered.
Each traction bar is registered with the VIN number of the car it is installed on, and the owner's name.

I have such confidence that my traction bars will not break for as long as you own your car, that broken components will be replaced at no cost for as long as you own the car.

This is similar to the Snap-On Tools, Matco Tools and Mac Tools warranty.
If you can break it, you get another one free for as long as you own it.

I will not replace parts if you wrecked your car to break that part, and I will not replace parts that you broke when you hit something with my traction bars. Wrecking a car and hitting things is not considered normal use.

Other than that, I don't think you can break traction bars made by me.

If anyone wants to post other warranties from traction bars that can be bought over the internet or elsewhere, feel free to do so. To my knowledge, no one backs up their products as well as I do.-Bob