Yes on the oil unless its puring out but if its just you clean it off and u just see a drop again then your fine ..and ^ like he said u might want to check thos..but also u don't always get a check engine light with a bad 02 sensor I found that out myself after changing ton of stuff then I unluged my 02 it ran fine so I bought a new one the car ran perfect after

 

the bog could b a cap/rotor/timing and/or a "lazy O2" as far as the leak check with a straight edge and feel gauge as stated above. are you using the proper torque specs/order. 90lbs is about 40lbs over spec. check in hanyes and/or chiltons or go to the dealer and get the proper 2 step torque sequence/spec.

 

mabye im overshooting here but since you have CTR pistons in the block your compression has increase quite a bit. im also assuming you have bolt-ons as well. what ECU are you running and is the ECU chipped?? if so is the car tuned?? light throttle bogging sounds like a fuel issue to me, and I have seen this countless times where a head is milled, someone puts high compression pistons in and does not at least chip the ECU. in some cases the motor is starving for fuel, or its a case of being over timed and the bogging is in fact miss fires due to detonation or something else tuning related. 1st things 1st, what is your setup? what was your static compression, and have you done a compression check lately?

 

I'm running a '99 GSR with bored GSR block, CTR pistons, Skunk2 intake manifold, Skunk2 cam gears, alumininum crank pulley, short stack intake, Type-R tranny and stock ecu. I have a p28 ecu but need to chip it. I'd like to get dyno tuned if my car ran right. Looks like my head is in fact leaking so I'm going to put in a Cometic gasket and maybe new ARP head studs. Once I change the gasket, I'm doing a compression test. My car has run fine with this set up despite head leaks. Maybe I'm just losing too much compression right now...?

 

Without a compression check its hard to say, and also as stated before 90FTLB's is wayyy to tight. remember our heads are aluminum! they dont need much to seat, and to much more will ruin the head, the material is to soft and the studs will permently score the head and result in impropper torque readings from then on so be careful. there is no need to over TQ the studs. if its leaking its not going to help anything by over TQ'ing things.

BTW, make sure you grind down the dowl pins if your removing the head again. alot of times not doing this on a head that has been milled will result in the corners of the head sitting up due to the dowls bottoming out, thus leading to oil leakage!

 

You have to mill about .040-to .060 before the dowel pins will cause the head not to sit flush. I've been working on Honda's for over 10 years and the head gaskets do not leak oil unless you put a major gouge in the deck surface or do an lsvtec conversion wrong. The leak is coming from either:

-valve cover
-distributor o-ring
-cam seals
-vtec solenoid gasket
-washers behind the hex plugs that seal the rocker arm shafts
Old school way to check for leaks is to clean really good and then throw some baby powder on the area that is leaking. The powder will stick and then over the course of driving the oil leak will leave a path through the powder giving you the source.

CTR pistons in a gsr without tuning equals detonation, that is likely your bog.

 

Word, makes sense about the sleeves!

 

72lbs its on the box.

 

remember theres two torque sequences, for instance, 21lb around, then again 62lb, thats for an LS tho, dnt kno if someone said this already, dint read comments lol