confused about crx swaps
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Hello all Ive got a few guestion about engine swaps in a crx. I am an owner of a 89 dx rex and im planning on swapin the engines soon but i am very confused about what kinda swap i want. First I wanted something along the lines of a turbo ZC or turbo d16z6 that way I could hang with and work mildly modded b16 rexs. After that I wanted a b16 swap for ovious reasons then finaly I wanted an ls because of the tourque and sometime down the road if I wanted to it would be possible to make an ls/vtec. Anyways I was wondering what your view is on the situation and what are the pros and cons of the swaps. Any help would be apreciated.thanks
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SOHC 1.6 VTEC
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SOHC 1.6 VTEC
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Eat My Ass With a Spoon
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not to be rude but this is a perfect example of what the INTERNET is for. you can go to any web search engine and type in crx or b16a or even honda and get a list of site that will be able to show you different peoples views on the topic or topics at hand.
i will start you off with one site welcome aboard and enjoy your research.
http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/index.html
i will start you off with one site welcome aboard and enjoy your research.
http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/index.html
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This thread was brought to you by "Joker's ButtSeXxX" railing your sisters tarstar since 1992.
This thread was brought to you by "Joker's ButtSeXxX" railing your sisters tarstar since 1992.
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to bad iv already read that whole site i now the basics that everyone says bla bla bla bla a b16 has a lot more potential than a zc bla bla bla bla the easiset swap is d16 or zc bla bla bla bla. being hows my first post got me no wherelet me try again. b16 with header intake cam gears fuel and tunning vs an LS with the same mods what is one gonna come out on top what are some exspected E/Ts is the diffence in cost worth it? ect... thanks
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SOHC 1.6 VTEC
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Sayien
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ummm. in the long run it would be better to get a b16a. dont mess with an ls unless you want to make it an ls/vtech and no matter what you do you have to remmber that its all about the money$$$$$$$$$$$$. unless you want to be ghetto and weld your tranny mount to the side of the car cut your shift linkage and run the thing stock........its your choice.also about the e.t. its not about the car its about the driver.
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-B.J.F-
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Dont bother wasting money on the D-series motors. Just save up and get a B-series and work with it.
B16a vs LS: I had a ls motor in my Crx and I ran a 15.2 @ 91mph with an exhaust and a hot air intake. Its torquey so its really good for a daily driver. However a Crx w/a B16a will hand me my ass easily-1/4 mile. The car is torquey but it lacks top end...it struggles above 6k rpm. If youre thinking about going NA Id get the B16a swap and when youre ready just swap in the LS block. Since I had the ls swap I had to buy a b16a swap for the headtranny and ecu.
If youre going turbo (its kinda difficult to get the pipings in there with a B-series swap) then its a toss up between the two. Most people would use a ls tranny to stay in boost longer and the ls has a lower compression so you can run a little more boost. Hope this somewhat helps.
B16a vs LS: I had a ls motor in my Crx and I ran a 15.2 @ 91mph with an exhaust and a hot air intake. Its torquey so its really good for a daily driver. However a Crx w/a B16a will hand me my ass easily-1/4 mile. The car is torquey but it lacks top end...it struggles above 6k rpm. If youre thinking about going NA Id get the B16a swap and when youre ready just swap in the LS block. Since I had the ls swap I had to buy a b16a swap for the headtranny and ecu.
If youre going turbo (its kinda difficult to get the pipings in there with a B-series swap) then its a toss up between the two. Most people would use a ls tranny to stay in boost longer and the ls has a lower compression so you can run a little more boost. Hope this somewhat helps.
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To make your life simple just get a B16a ! These are the 3 main items you should focus on.
1. Complete engine swap $1600.00 shipped with everything included axles and stock mounts.
2. Bolt in Mount kit. $350.00 thru $500.00. Makes the swap soo frigging easy and trouble free. *right now www.jdmhondaparts.com for a 1st gen complete swap with the mount kit for $1900.00 shipped.
3. Small wiring changes to change dual point injection (DX) to multi point injection (SI or HF) Is just to add the extra injectors and the wires. This is pretty simple and is anywhere from free to $200.00. It depens if you want to pay someone to do it.
Overall I will gladly say it will take safely around 2300.00 2500.00 with everything included plus the extra parts that you need. And you will have to swap in the following or at least replaced while the engine is out.
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat * dont have to but on a damn 10 year old engine you might as well doesn t matter how long it sat in the car while in japan)
Distributor cap and rotor
Radiator hoses
Spark plugs and wires
Alternator belt.
Those items above will save you some money in the long run. Those japanese engine average around 30k miles but is always good to have those items replaced while the engine is out.
Now someone please save this thing in some sort of an archive as I have never written anything this long.
HTH
1. Complete engine swap $1600.00 shipped with everything included axles and stock mounts.
2. Bolt in Mount kit. $350.00 thru $500.00. Makes the swap soo frigging easy and trouble free. *right now www.jdmhondaparts.com for a 1st gen complete swap with the mount kit for $1900.00 shipped.
3. Small wiring changes to change dual point injection (DX) to multi point injection (SI or HF) Is just to add the extra injectors and the wires. This is pretty simple and is anywhere from free to $200.00. It depens if you want to pay someone to do it.
Overall I will gladly say it will take safely around 2300.00 2500.00 with everything included plus the extra parts that you need. And you will have to swap in the following or at least replaced while the engine is out.
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat * dont have to but on a damn 10 year old engine you might as well doesn t matter how long it sat in the car while in japan)
Distributor cap and rotor
Radiator hoses
Spark plugs and wires
Alternator belt.
Those items above will save you some money in the long run. Those japanese engine average around 30k miles but is always good to have those items replaced while the engine is out.
Now someone please save this thing in some sort of an archive as I have never written anything this long.
HTH
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1|\| 4 88 C|2>< 51 full \^/31gh7 0|\| 57|2337 71|235
L5 \^// 17|2 p1570|\|5 3><h4u57 1|\|74k3 - 15.2@90mph
B164 \^/17h c4m g34|25 17|2 1|\|74k3 m4|\|1f0ld m0dd3d 3cu (8500|2pm |23dl1|\|3) 3><h4u57 - 14.2@95mph
54m3 71|235 54m3 3v3|2y7h1|\|g 3l53.
L5 \^// 17|2 p1570|\|5 3><h4u57 1|\|74k3 - 15.2@90mph
B164 \^/17h c4m g34|25 17|2 1|\|74k3 m4|\|1f0ld m0dd3d 3cu (8500|2pm |23dl1|\|3) 3><h4u57 - 14.2@95mph
54m3 71|235 54m3 3v3|2y7h1|\|g 3l53.
Thread Starter
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thanks alot everyone for your help. thats the kinda answers i was looking for im my first post (could have worded it a little more better) it looks like a b16 is the only way to go. 8===D~~~~~d series plans 
peace and thanks again
peace and thanks again
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SOHC 1.6 VTEC
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