suspension techniques rear swaybar
who wants to install my rear 19mm swaybar? i found out i have to drill 2 holes and i dont want to do that. plus i have to take off my neuspeed lower tie bar which was a bitch to get on in the first place. other than that it should be pretty easy to install once you get the holes drilled reamed threaded and whatnot. anyone know where i can get this done or who wants to do this? pm me with offers or just post places please.
not offering (got too much shit to do) but whoever does end up doing it for you make sure they use some good heavy duty washers for the subframe bolts. A few of the ST bars Ive put in didnt come with any washers and only the reinforcement plate.
my accord is predrilled for the wholes and took about 30 min to do sucks for yall!
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Editor - Stangtv.com - Dragzine.com
2011 Mustang GT Premium 6-speed manual Sterling Gray Metallic - New Project Car
SCT SF3 - FRPP Adjustable Handling Pack - Vortech 597 RWHP 476 lb/ft - 7.5 PSI
1965 Mustang - Blow thru Dart SBF 427ci with a Paxton NOVI-2500
Hydraulic roller, 91 octane, 1030HP
http://www.floridaracing.org

Editor - Stangtv.com - Dragzine.com
2011 Mustang GT Premium 6-speed manual Sterling Gray Metallic - New Project Car
SCT SF3 - FRPP Adjustable Handling Pack - Vortech 597 RWHP 476 lb/ft - 7.5 PSI
1965 Mustang - Blow thru Dart SBF 427ci with a Paxton NOVI-2500
Hydraulic roller, 91 octane, 1030HP
ITR is not wrong for that car more expensive or difficult for that matter it is real easy to install. 22mm is better and wont tear up your subframe if you take the smart route if nobody will put it on for you pm me and I will do it for you but it really is not hard you got all the hardware?
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Why is it when ever I really need to weld something the acetylene always seems to run out...
Only babies drink from bottles...
Boosted 00 Si
N/A 93 HB b16/18
Why is it when ever I really need to weld something the acetylene always seems to run out...
Only babies drink from bottles...
Boosted 00 Si
N/A 93 HB b16/18
Guest
Posts: n/a
im his brother and we did the lowering and other braces i just didnt feel like drilling that day. as bill suggested i do believe we have some extra washers it came with but were only used with ABS brackets or civics i thnk but ill use those when we put it on. i already put the L brackets on when i put the shocks on so i dont have to unbolt those. i just have to drill the bracket holes and slap it on. problem was i had to remove the tie bar to get the bracket on and when he put the tie bar on initially (before i came home for thanksgiving) he said it was a bitch but i blieve thats cuz the OEM sway bar was causing the pressure and not letting the LCAs to line up very easily. im sure with the OEM bar off it might be easier to get the tie bar back on. plus i have some tips and tricks im going to try as well. if someone else wants to do it go ahead im soon to have my own car ill able to work on again.


