The way I setup cars for around 500ish is I weld two -10's to the back of the valve cover and run those to a catch can made or 3" square aluminum tube 6" long with a 1.5" outlet and filter I weld two -10's to the front of this can and connect those to the valve cover -10's and then I weld two more -10's to the lower portion of the can and run those to the back of the block as another vent location and also a drain back. On the back of the block you remove the hex plugs and either weld steel -10 fittings to them or since they are hidden I usually buy the oem honda fittings in the Endyn ($5 each) and just hose clamp the -10 line to them.

This setup works great, biggest cost is the lines and fittings, I'd guess it costs about $300 with all stainless lines. If you plan on making over 600 you should look into a "T1 style" can that sits in the battery location.

If you want something relatively cheap, I'll sell a kit I made very similar to the endyn setup for $75. It is used and has rubber lines and vents off the back of the block and returns to a modified stock breather tank. If you look at my old build thread you can see how I made it.

 

But KJ. What do you use two -16 bungs on

 

1000 WHP mythical motors that never get built/started.

 

im looking to make 450-500 on this setup i have a shop up here that i need to talk to about doing the work i wish i was still in tampa it would make things alot easier

 

t1 catch can setup. woot!

 

i have a used endyne catch can has the two fittings in the can and the moroso filter, no brackets or lines $70 lmk
813-478-4493

 

haha how you been KJ?


plus the endyne kits 99% of the time fill with oil, i stopped using them few years ago and just stick to fittings on valve cover like stated above