Honda/Acura Tech Honda tech discussion.

Rubbing left rear

Thread Tools
 
Old 01-28-2001, 06:25 AM
  #1 (permalink)  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
samecraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Im getting rubbing at the left rear only on hard right turns with my new bigger rims and tires. Right at the top of the wheel arch. Clearance there is a finger and a half but two fingers on the other three. Could the stock shock be going bad (its been 47K miles with Pro-Kits)? Or the spring itself? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

------------------
98 Accord EX V6 Coupe • Emerald Green • CompTech headers • AEM pulleys • Neuspeed strut & rear sway bars • Eibach Pro-Kit • Porterfield pads • MIM Imola 17x8 + Bridgestone RE730 225/45ZR-17 • custom K&N CAI • GReddy dual MX • cleared headlights • blacked-out window chrome • OE front lip • custom billet grille • no badges • Eclipse speakers • DynoJet 191 hp at wheels
__________________
’04 m3 coupe • silbergrau/schwartz • 6mt • lux package • xenons • hk • gruppem intake • aa software • uuc rasp-x • borla cat-back • dinan stage 1 suspension • 19" bbs rs-gt • rogue pulleys/ssk/rsms/tranny mounts • cdv removed • home depot clutch stop • euro cross-drilled • stoptech brake lines • vorsteiner cf rear diffuser • cf exterior bits • etc.
Old 01-28-2001, 03:56 PM
  #2 (permalink)  
Livin' in Seattle
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I remember that beast up at Dyno day. 191hp to the wheels with just bolt-ons mmmmm.

Id check the shock to see if its leaking any oil check the rim to make sure its the same offset as the others and finally check the suspension arms to make sure none are bent. By the way Id definately upgrade the stock shocks since 47k with Pro-kits cant have been kind to their valving.
Old 01-28-2001, 05:35 PM
  #3 (permalink)  
Livin' in Seattle
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I concur with Bills assessment of the situation.

------------------
John

need some time on the rollers? Email me at vapor.trail@gte.net
Old 01-28-2001, 07:27 PM
  #4 (permalink)  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
samecraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

OKthe suspension looks good the shock looks dry and what looks like the offset number (2041) is stamped on all four rims. I wonder if Ive had a bad spring all along but its only a problem with the bigger rim and tire.

Who would be a good person (or shop) here in Tampa to check it out for me?

Yeah that was me at dyno day. Thanks to whoever posted that really excellent video of my car screaming up on the rack.

<FONT COLOR=#a8a8a8 SIZE=1 FACE=Verdana Arial>This message has been edited by samecraig on 01-28-2001 at 11:29 PM</font>
__________________
’04 m3 coupe • silbergrau/schwartz • 6mt • lux package • xenons • hk • gruppem intake • aa software • uuc rasp-x • borla cat-back • dinan stage 1 suspension • 19" bbs rs-gt • rogue pulleys/ssk/rsms/tranny mounts • cdv removed • home depot clutch stop • euro cross-drilled • stoptech brake lines • vorsteiner cf rear diffuser • cf exterior bits • etc.
Old 01-28-2001, 07:46 PM
  #5 (permalink)  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
samecraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hmm I just realized that QuickF20c is in fact dyno-John. Maybe I just roll by your place (rubbing all the way).
__________________
’04 m3 coupe • silbergrau/schwartz • 6mt • lux package • xenons • hk • gruppem intake • aa software • uuc rasp-x • borla cat-back • dinan stage 1 suspension • 19" bbs rs-gt • rogue pulleys/ssk/rsms/tranny mounts • cdv removed • home depot clutch stop • euro cross-drilled • stoptech brake lines • vorsteiner cf rear diffuser • cf exterior bits • etc.
Old 02-01-2001, 07:11 AM
  #6 (permalink)  
Livin' in Seattle
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

DOH!! VDorms post just made me think of another possibility. When you aggressively lower your car like you did theres always a possibility that you can rip your
bushing(s). When you get your car checked out have em take a look at the arm bushings.
Old 02-01-2001, 07:43 AM
  #7 (permalink)  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
samecraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks Bill. I will get that checked. If theres nothing obviously wrong with the suspension (everything looks fine so far) Ill just roll that lip. Meanwhile Im taking it easy with an extra passenger (the only time it rubs). Love the 17s (no more 18s for me).
__________________
’04 m3 coupe • silbergrau/schwartz • 6mt • lux package • xenons • hk • gruppem intake • aa software • uuc rasp-x • borla cat-back • dinan stage 1 suspension • 19" bbs rs-gt • rogue pulleys/ssk/rsms/tranny mounts • cdv removed • home depot clutch stop • euro cross-drilled • stoptech brake lines • vorsteiner cf rear diffuser • cf exterior bits • etc.
Old 02-01-2001, 11:24 AM
  #8 (permalink)  
Livin' in Seattle
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I dont think roling the lip is the answer to your problem. If all the other wheels sit correctly rolling the fender lip to make the problem wheel have enough clearance wont even put a band-aid on the problem. Its just kind of like saying out of sight out of mind the problem will still be there. In order to check out the bushings youll have to jack up the car and take a look at them and possibly disconnect the mounts so you can have a GOOD look at them. Also with the car jacked up Id bust out the straightedge and a tape measure and see if there is any deviation in the arms. This can result from a pot-hole bending an arm or a curb hit etc. Take a clean white rag and rub the shock see if any fluid gets deposited on it. Measure the amount that the wheel sits from a stationary chassis point and then compare to the other wheels. This will tell you about any offset problems. Another thing you might wanna check out is if your wheels have hubcentric rings on them that the rings are seated properly on the hub. And one last thing if all else turns out fine Id buy a rear camber kit instead of rolling the lip since if its not an offset problem its a camber problem.
Old 02-01-2001, 10:21 PM
  #9 (permalink)  
TR Registered Member #5
 
marksaccord95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

do u have a camber kit craig? if so i bet you its that. i reall doubt u ripped anything i mean ive got 109000 miles lowered for 50K of that and i dont have anything ripped if u do have a camber kit go take it some where and have them adjust it to give you a little more negative camber to get the wheel off the arm. if u dont have a camber kit dont get 1 that make the rubbing worse against the control arm/fender

------------------
No more Zex for me! Only Venom!

http://www.geocities.com/markaccord95
www.superhonda.com/projects/accordproject
__________________
http://www.floridaracing.org



Editor - Stangtv.com - Dragzine.com

2011 Mustang GT Premium 6-speed manual Sterling Gray Metallic - New Project Car
SCT SF3 - FRPP Adjustable Handling Pack - Vortech 597 RWHP 476 lb/ft - 7.5 PSI

1965 Mustang - Blow thru Dart SBF 427ci with a Paxton NOVI-2500
Hydraulic roller, 91 octane, 1030HP

Old 02-02-2001, 05:56 AM
  #10 (permalink)  
Livin' in Seattle
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by "Someone"

Originally posted by marksaccord95:
do u have a camber kit craig? if so i bet you its that. i reall doubt u ripped anything i mean ive got 109000 miles lowered for 50K of that and i dont have anything ripped if u do have a camber kit go take it some where and have them adjust it to give you a little more negative camber to get the wheel off the arm. if u dont have a camber kit dont get 1 that make the rubbing worse against the control arm/fender

More negative camber will bring the top of the wheel even closer to the upper control arm since the bottom stays stationary and the top moves. As for not getting a camber kit why? With a kit or a set of washers for that matter you can take out all of the negative camber and encounter no rubbing at all. Now if you go crazy with the negative camber then you can encounter some rubbing from the wheel lip on the arms but youd only run into that with some really agressive specs.

Craig just take the car to Cars & Concepts.
Call 348-6183 and ask for Steve. Hell sort out this whole mess for ya. Dont forget to come back and tell us whats wrong.



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:09 AM.